Sam Anglin

Adds some difficult and interesting moves to the end of BD Sit (or stand I guess) Probably V8 if you do it on it's own from the stand

weird, starting matched in the sloper makes no sense, one of the crimps broke and is slightly harder now, same grade probably.

Jump start in the scoop jug (or start as for Untitled Unmastered). Just a straightforward akward mantle, use knees and shins, or possibly a small right hand .

repeat on a hot summer day, felt pretty rugged.

On the right side of the space pilot boulder start with a good low right hand and a bad left and pinch with low feet. Move into the good rail left then up into a tiny crimp and a pebble to set up for the pogo jump to the good block, finish in the same wet jug as space pilot etc. Pure board style crimping

Far left start on 2 gastons into Space Pilot. Has a pretty wide full span move, there are other ways around it for the shorter folks though, I think it could still be reached at 5'8" but shorter than that could be tough

Pretty cool moves on a nicely polished rock.

It's really good, campus beta is the way

Did it from the proper sit on the two crimps low and center. Exiting out right through the sharp pocket. Maybe 9?

Really good, did it from the sit / lowest crimps. As for grade if you're going from the sit 8/9 is appropriate, I think the first move is V9 alone. With lots of these boulders hard to know where the FA was done from. Starting 2 moves in is probably V6

Climbs Naughty Karate then goes up and left through Dolza. Some beta variety exists but it all feels similarly hard. Feels like V9 + V9. So 11? Naughty is maybe 9 if you're tall enough to keep the cam in for all the moves (which I am)

The hike in and out sucks, but this is a cool boulder. Original beta felt like solid V10, but toehook feels like 8?

Stand start on the crimps I guess, I went to the left arete because it seemed the easiest. Seems like this shouldn't be a line, you should be climbing the top section on it's own from the rest hold of Naughty Karate / Sensei but idk

Kinda cool, I opted for alternate beta through the crux / finish because it seemed the easiest and most logical

Start on decent left facing crimp and tiny right hand crimp under the start of minus man. Either a game of finger strength, or getting as much weight on your feet as you can - depends on how you look at it. Starting with your RH on the left facing hold and LH on a big lower edge to the left is the real prize, 6 sessions and still can't stick that move, V12-ish?

Pretty dang hard

pretty cool, too bad it's not longer. Maybe in really good temps would feel closer to 7 but it's pretty tough.

Kind of an arbitrary place to start with the giant jug 2 moves away and it's ~V7 from there. But it was cool nonetheless. Also you can turn around and start feet first and maybe knock it down to 8/9.

Pretty sweet boulder on a pretty sweet boulder. End of day, tried hard.

Really proper, never saw the potential for the sit til Thomas pointed it out.

Sit start down to the left, sent first go today, might be soft

V10/+? Really good / low percentage overhung compression on bad feet. Topout spicy-ish

Pretty good still

surprisingly hard barn door thing (I now know this is called Sacred Geometry). I wouldn't argue with V9

Kinda cool

pretty bad, start on bad crimps w bad foot, move to razor crimp, huck to good pull pad edge.

On the first boulder up the hill, first right hand pullout from Wyeth Rd.

Really Good

Start low and left under the slab of the Egyptian boulder, pull up to some tiny nubs, gain a high foot and mantle onto the slab. You can step off right, but running the whole slab is more exciting.

Moonboard 8a. Lower start to the right is available

8 with the toehook in to start, maybe 8/9 if you don't put the toehook in and do the big first move? Cool boulder.

Really good. It was blazing hot and baking in direct sun but I wanted it bad. 3 or 4 goes? Once I stuck the second move I went to the top. Will go back for the sit.

5/5 Such a cool climb. The crimp moves were more tension-y and resistant than I thought. And people smash the move to the lip but I peeled off that hold 8 or 9 times before sticking it. Probably a little lack of commitment, and maybe because it was 80 degrees and humid. Psyched though

Guidebook says V6 I think? It'd be a stout 6 for sure. Pretty good, but not that great? Worth doing if you're nearby. 3 goes?

first go, used the hard shoulder move beta. It's Carver, so the only way to do a boulder with more than 3 moves in a row is a trav I suppose. Soft 9? but it's pretty dang long.

Weird climbing, the start hold is cool.

One of the best

The heelhook move is so desperate for me, very low percentage. took 3 sessions to repeat it. *After a few repeats with high right foot / skipping the pinch, this is probably 8

psyched. had the vision for it year 1, waited til year 2 for the send. 10/11?

Soft for 10 I think

Need to go back and start it from the sharp pocket. Beta is changing, could be hard V8?

Hard to grade but the bottom moves are probably V7/8 on their own into the top which is probably V6/7. You could rest for a long time on the jug in between that starts the stand so I went with 8 all together

V6+? could be 7? Sit start with RH crimp and LH Edge and make a dropknee move to the big hold.

On the backside of the Rowena boulder, to the right of Thrown in the Bin. Cruxy first two moves

Left start into Tzedek. Cuts out the first 2/3 moves. Really fun. Nick just ripped for the jug which seems equally hard

Hard direct start on the Rowena Boulder, Tension-y.

Cool opening moves off the jug on crimps head right to the prow of the basalt column then make a jump move to a jug

It's good

Thought it was stupid, but turned out to be pretty fun. Guide gives it a 10 which is questionable. cool move though. *update, heard that 'centipede' is an eliminate, I believe it avoids the pocket hold which may have been drilled or chipped? who knows anymore*

Good but maybe not 9, idk. repeated it twice both days I did it.

Hard

On the right side of the Arete on the Rome Boulder. Between The Architect and Gladius

Original beta turned out to not be the best way, so I don't think anyone is really climbing this anymore

Footwork and body tension intensive, good boulder. 2/3 sessions.

Better than I thought it would be? Guidebook is right about the feet, after the first move I more or less campused the rest of it.

Southpaw is the better line, but this exit was more fun than I thought it would be

Excellent. A lot of flexibility and technique on low percentage moves. Felt really hard when I fell on it, felt really easy when I sent. It's a must do hard boulder at Carver though.

Small crimps to a high slabby topout. Fun

Good boulder, Good first 9

Beached whale-d the topout

It's good

Start on the jug rail, lock in a heel toe cam, go left hand to the far pinch, then right hand around the prow and top out right. A left exit is possible, but will be hard. V6 or 7?

Dabby start but damn good holds / moves.

Work left to right and up. On the overhanging prow of the Minus Man boulder

So many moves! Punted for a few days. Think I spent 6 or 7 days total trying it.

Backside of the Whispers of Wisdom boulder, facing The Kind. Did it from the big undercling out right, and starting through the crack traverse lower and left. Both good.

Second go

FA was done matched on the undercling so I added a grade. Most people start one hand on undercling and one on the big edge nowadays. Probably just 7 from there.

Right exit out of the pit, fun high heel and big gaston that's more do-able than it looks

A little high, but perfectly flat landing. Bring a few pads.

Burly first moves

On the wall with the dick spray painted on it. Grab a horrendous crimp with the right, get bad feet, and jump for the right hand finish. Saw a beta video with the left exit at V4 I think? The right exit and lower start I added are super contrived, but they make it a bit harder.

Sharp, Short, Opening moves are the crux. Get a high foot after gaining the pipe shaped sloper and you're in the clear.

Very trill, broken glass on the topout, take a peek before you climb really anything at Hooes Rd.

Almost stepped on a big snake during the approach, if it's warm out be wary