Ascents

Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Gr.
Tot
On
Fl
Re
To
Diagram
8a+ 0 0 0 0 0
8a 4 0 0 4 0
7c+ 7 0 0 7 0
7c 12 0 0 12 0
7b+ 10 1 1 8 0
7b 12 2 3 7 0
7a+ 14 5 2 7 0
7a 8 6 1 1 0
6c+ 4 3 0 1 0
6c 3 1 1 1 0
6b+ 4 3 1 0 0
6b 2 1 1 0 0
6a+ 3 0 3 0 0
6a 2 1 1 0 0
5+ 1 1 0 0 0
Ascents
Route Grade Crag Type Ascent date Ascent type
Electric Jesus
8a Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
14 tries in the heat and one on a cooler day. Short and powerful, one of my favorites!
8a Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2012-08-04
FA Red point
FA Red point
Center El Shinto 
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
Finally!! Draws were hanging when I walked by so I hopped on and sent. Have been trying this route half heartedly for years. Such a great line though a little soft for .12b
7b Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2012-06-16
Red point
Red point
McClelland Strong
Hardest route in Cody? Steep atypical climbing on pinches, slopers, sidepulls and underclings. Took a lot of tries. Felt smooth on the send tho. Glad to put er down.
8a Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2012-03-31
FA Red point
FA Red point
The Art of War
3 goes. Cool steeper route with open hand pinches and slaps. Somewhat cruiser with one stopper move that baffled me initially. Totally stumped on grade?!? Repeats please.
7a+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-10-24
FA Red point
FA Red point
The Ardbeg
2nd pitch of Glen Morangie. Did as one long pitch.
6a+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-10-24
FA Flash
FA Flash
The Bowbeg
Start on Bowmore, end on Ardbeg. Fun Long route.
6a+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-10-24
FA Flash
FA Flash
The Dean of Mean
Finally! Steep jug haul with a tricky move at the top that kept shutting me down. Brilliant moves on expertly welded choss.
7c Ten Sleep / The Octagon Sport 2011-09-30
Red point
Red point
Big Ben
6b Sport at Cody / The Island
Long route right of Blackwall. Resurrected from the dead literally. Bolted in early 90's by Ben Franklin and promptly stripped due to sketchy basalt blocks down low. A proper cleaning and new bolts and viola! A new classic. Long and fun, goes to the top of the Island.
6b Cody / The Island Sport 2011-09-20
FA Flash
FA Flash
Vanilla Gorilla
Strange start. Very steep juggy movement. Got bagged going for anchor jug on first go. aargggh!! Kept going on 2nd go to check out Mexicutioner which is rad!!
7b+ Ten Sleep / The Octagon Sport 2011-09-15
Red point
Red point
I Know Kung Fu
7c Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
3 goes. New route on Matrix Pillar. Short but kinda steep and bouldery. Much harder than I expected it to be. May be 12c but seemed harder than Hotdog and Keilbasa both of which are kinda stiff. Great movement and flow. Pleased with this one. Could be harder for shorter climbers?
7c Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2011-09-12
FA Red point
FA Red point
Super 8
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Another split personality route. Rambly cruiser beginning to steep pockety bulge. A bit of cruxin at the end. Liked it!
7a+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-09-08
FA Flash
FA Flash
Succubus On Top
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Valhalla
Maybe an FA. Did Killer Karma and this back to back. This was harder, but easier than Cows and Love & 45.
7b Ten Sleep / Valhalla Sport 2011-09-05
FA On-sight
FA On-sight
Zombie Leprachauns
A great CK creation. Very thought provoking and 5.11 most of the way.
7a+ Ten Sleep / Wall of Denial Sport 2011-09-04
FA On-sight
FA On-sight
Vulcan Jessery
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
2nd ascent? Great new addition from JB. Long and techy toward the top on small postive holds and monos.
7a+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-09-03
2nd Red point
2nd Red point
The Chillarete
2nd Go. Deceptively tricky and I bolted the damn thing. Damn near blew it on the 2nd go too. Short overhanging arete with many tricks. Used the late great BM's anchors from Turbo Charger, they were in the perfect spot. Chaching!
6c+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-08-31
FA Red point
FA Red point
Robot Steamroller
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Bottom turned out much better than I was expecting and the finish is great! My 9 year old insisted on the name.
7b Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-08-18
FA Flash
FA Flash
Redneck Super Hero
7b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
2nd go. First harder route after tearing my abdominals. Crux at the end. Really quite a cool route.
7b+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-08-18
FA Red point
FA Red point
Slim @ Peoples Ice Company
Pretty easy for .11c. Bosephus and Wolvo in the same area are way harder.
6c (6c+) Ten Sleep / Wall of Denial Sport 2011-07-17
On-sight
On-sight
Bosephus
Great purple rock, highest quality. Short, four bolts, fun moves. No stars in guide, hmmm. I liked it. Could be 12a?
7a+ (6c+) Ten Sleep / Wall of Denial Sport 2011-07-17
On-sight
On-sight
Broke Neck Blues
7a Sport at Ten Sleep / Valhalla
Pretty good route. Needs a proper cleaning. Not 12a
7a Ten Sleep / Valhalla Sport 2011-07-11
On-sight
On-sight
Adrenochrome Trundle
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Valhalla
Bravo! This is an excellent climb! Jugs the whole way and very steep at the top.
7a+ Ten Sleep / Valhalla Sport 2011-07-11
On-sight
On-sight
Shagadelic
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
1st try of Day 2. Direct start to Shaggys Marijuana Flag. Also added the three bolt extension to the end for the full package. A tricky route with several bouldery sections.
7c+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-07-01
FA Red point
FA Red point
Could Be Made Into A Monster
6c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Left most line on the front of the Cigar and the hardest of the four new ones. Good steep chuggin.
6c+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-06-26
On-sight
On-sight
Heart Breaker
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Maybe an FA. Breaks off John Henry up the bulge on jugs to some tough moves. Very quality and fun Huey addition.
7b Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2011-06-18
FA Flash
FA Flash
Bob Marley
Tricky finish. Good link up and a great intro to this steep wall. Short and bouldery
7b Wild Iris / Rodeo Wave Sport 2011-06-12
Red point
Red point
Bobcat Logic
7b+ Sport at Wild Iris / Rodeo Wave
3 Tries. Wow! Short but great. All big moves on good holds. I started as high as I could reach?
7b+ Wild Iris / Rodeo Wave Sport 2011-06-12
Red point
Red point
Burly
Great steep climbing on giant holds pretty much the whole way. Surprised this has held the grade all these years. Felt way easier than AMM right to the left.
7a Sinks Canyon / Squaretop Boulder Sport 2011-06-11
On-sight
On-sight
Full Irations
Cool straight forward short pocket climb. This could be bouldered.
7a+ Sinks Canyon / Squaretop Boulder Sport 2011-06-11
On-sight
On-sight
American Man Meat
2nd go. Hard getting through the steep roof at the end. Loved the mono thread. Not 11d, way harder than Burly and Irations
7a+ Sinks Canyon / Squaretop Boulder Sport 2011-06-11
Red point
Red point
Head Like A Hole
Oldie but goodie. Never tried before. Tricky crux guards anchors.
7a+ Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2011-06-08
On-sight
On-sight
Cheesy Livin
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Dry Wall
End of crackfest 2011!! After a day of stemming awesome bolted cracks, I went after this thing. Missed a key pocket a couple moves in and blew the onsight - bummer. Felt easy second go. Guide says .12b/c - no way Wendling graded it that, maybe .11b/c. I'll take it though maybe .12a is closer. Excellent route! Bravo! used all the technique I learned that day.
7b Ten Sleep / Dry Wall Sport 2011-06-05
Red point
Red point
Dry Wall 55
6b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Dry Wall
Short route on high quality stone right where the trail meets the wall. Harder as you go up to a make or break finish. Id say .11b-ish
6c (6b+) Ten Sleep / Dry Wall Sport 2011-06-04
On-sight
On-sight
Life's A Scream
7a Sport at Ten Sleep / Dry Wall
Good one CK. Tricky SOB! All holds face right and no/poor feet the whole way. Short but value. Id say .11c or d.
7a Ten Sleep / Dry Wall Sport 2011-06-04
On-sight
On-sight
Old Aune Route
1st lead try. On the Visionary boulder, the left sport route. Set up TR because of traverse nature to check it out before leading. Hard intro then mellower, quality climbing throughout.
7a+ Cody / Cedar Mountain / Carcass Crag Sport 2011-05-23
Red point
Red point
Air Guitar
1st go. Flashed 12 years ago when it was called 'Give up the Funk' and the wall was The Brick House. Fun to retro flash - seemed like the first time. Tricky start and a cool hard sequence going thru the bulge. Quality! Pretty easy for 11+.
6c+ (7a) Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2011-05-18
Red point
Red point
The Angels Share
2nd try. 2nd pitch if you care to break them up. Fun climbing to a 45 degree roof with some great bouldery moves and two dynos. A really cool feature and a damn fun route.
7c Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-05-13
FA Red point
FA Red point
LaPhroaig
So dirty the first time I climbed it, I was a little freaked out. A cleaning mission has brought it around, much better now.
6b+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-04-24
FA Flash
FA Flash
The Bowmore
A beautiful 100' long route with interesting climbing the whole way.
6a+ Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-04-24
FA Flash
FA Flash
Glenmorangie
1st pitch. Fun laybacking up an angling crack system to access the Angels Share Roof.
6a Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2011-04-24
FA Flash
FA Flash
American Psycho
First try today. Good route with cool roof at the top. Easier if tall.
7b Ten Sleep / The Octagon Sport 2011-04-02
Red point
Red point
Mighty Mouse
Very cool horizontal roof line. Traverse along a shelf much like the bouldering traverse lines I am used to. Start of a 13+ and 14.
7b+ Ten Sleep / The Octagon Sport 2011-04-02
Red point
Red point
Cayman Nights
Short and pretty steep. An easy route for the grade - a bit of power down low, a cool dyno in the middle, some faith to pull the last roof and a giant sharks tooth at the end. You're such a sick Wall!!
7b+ Cayman Brac, Love Shack Wall Sport 2011-03-18
FA Flash
FA Flash
Buffalo Soldier
Elephant Trunks and tufas the whole way. Newly rebolted with titanium rings. I love this wall!
7b Cayman Brac / Dixon's Wall Sport 2011-03-17
On-sight
On-sight
Leapin' Lizards
Wind up... Huck, Wind up... Huck, repeat. A fantastic route, marred only by how toothy most of the holds are.
7a+ Cayman Brac, Love Shack Wall Sport 2011-03-16
On-sight
On-sight
Bussie's Bulge
Ever screw up every single part of a climb? All sequences misread. Don't know how I hung on. Grade made no sense to me. Thanks for making it look easy Vance.
7a Cayman Brac / Dixon's Wall Sport 2011-03-14
On-sight
On-sight
Hindenburgs Harmonica
2nd go. My contribution to this excellent wall. The first tufa route I have ever bolted. Thanks John for inviting me. Would give it ten stars if that giant tufa hadn't tried to kill me and Vance.
7b Cayman Brac / Dixon's Wall Sport 2011-03-14
FA Red point
FA Red point
Out Of Africa
Like the rest on this wall - outstanding steep tufa climbing. Cool mono/cauliflower crux.
7a Cayman Brac / Dixon's Wall Sport 2011-03-13
On-sight
On-sight
Lizard the Gizzard
A bit more involved on the vert down low. Cruxy tufa pinching to another crux up high.
7a Cayman Brac / Dixon's Wall Sport 2011-03-12
On-sight
On-sight
The Full Mount
2nd Go. Good route. Stymied by small crimpers at the top on first go.
7a+ Ten Sleep / The Octagon Sport 2011-03-02
Red point
Red point
Oh Two
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
7b Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-09-05
FA Red point
FA Red point
Carbon Footprint
6c Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
6c Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-09-05
FA Flash
FA Flash
Sleep Reaction
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Hard. 2 tries. Short, savage boulder problem. Felt V7ish, guessing at grade. Surprised to do it so quick. Still hadn't quite worked it out.
7c+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-09-05
FA Red point
FA Red point
The Name of the Game
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Soft. 4 tries over 3 days. Felt so hard intitially. Gets harder as you go up. Every time I tried I was more confident and smoother, though still fighting like hell by the end. Best on the wall. Could be 12d, though harder than TFE which I did the day before.
7c+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-08-09
FA Red point
FA Red point
Goin' Feral
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
2nd go. Thought this would be harder. After a bungled first try, VB helped straighten me out on the intro and it went easy. A handful of tough moves then cruiser, and all on steep ground.
7a+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-08-09
FA Red point
FA Red point
Tangerine Fat Explosion
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
2nd go. Very dirty and untravelled. Cleaned and chalked it up a bit after blowing the OS. Vance flashed with ease. We couldn't see how this is 13a when there are so many 12d's that feel harder in the Sleep. Whatever?!
7c (7c+) Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2010-08-08
Red point
Red point
Toothless Grin
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Steep little bulge. Glad to do it quick and not epic. Outstanding rock climb. Could be harder?! Repeats
7b Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-07-26
FA Flash
FA Flash
Wu Tang's Wild Shinto Ride
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
Hard move off the deck the sustained edges like the rest of the Shinto routes.
7a+ Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2010-07-25
Red point
Red point
Pussytoes
7c Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
2nd Go. So many changes to this route over the years. Extension, broken hold, moved bolts, etc. Now settled in at 7c, I guess. Saved it to try and flash, but blew it. Good route, tho too bad the original ending is so easy to avoid.
7c Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2010-07-23
Red point
Red point
Floyd Direct
7a+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Left side of the back of the Cigar. Hard intro followed by techy heads up climbing. Thought it would be a one mover, but stays with you all the way. Good stuff! Was afraid to go 12b on this one but lots of people tell me its hard for 12a.. soooo?!
7b (7a+) Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-07-18
FA Flash
FA Flash
Have A Sneegar
7b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Hard. Three tries total. Superb pocket pulling on perfect stone to several reachy cruxes. Grade?!?
7b+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-07-18
FA Red point
FA Red point
Team Whiny Baby
7b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
2nd Go. Hard intro. Great Bouldery route with V5 crux near the ground, then hero pockets to a heartbreaker top out. Yes I blew it up there.
7b+ Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2010-06-28
Red point
Red point
Gravy Train
7b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
3 tries. The inside prow of the freestanding Cigar. Holy crap this one is good. Perfect water sculpted pockets and stone with a bouldery and steep finish. I didn't use the flake out right half way up which eliminates a rest and forces a harder sequence. So many stars!!! Maybe harder??
7b+ (7b) Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-28
FA Red point
FA Red point
Tio Aventura
6b Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Second pitch of Victory Lap. Steeper and more involved = FUN! One bat poopy hold = not fun
6b Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-18
On-sight
On-sight
Victory Lap
5+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Okay climbing down low to an arbitrary anchor. Second pitch is better. Can be done as one with 70m rope.
5+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-18
On-sight
On-sight
Big Boy Pants
6b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
A bit Peanut Buttery down low but the climbing is so good it doesn't matter. A very tricky and hard crux at the end right after a good rest. Harder then .11a
6c (6b+) Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-18
On-sight
On-sight
Scrotal Yodel
6a Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Good climbing throughout with several different styles required.
6a Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-18
On-sight
On-sight
Smugglin' Grapes
6c Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
Climbed it before it even had a name. Nice one JB
6c Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-18
On-sight
On-sight
John Henry Steel Drivin Man
6b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / Downtown
6b+ Ten Sleep / Downtown Sport 2010-06-09
On-sight
On-sight
Bro Job
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
3 tries. Great link up route Slim Jim into Esplanada.
7c+ Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-09-13
Red point
Red point
Kielbasa
7b+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
2nd Go. Hard. Fell two moves from the anchor. WTF!!!! No chalk and a huge runout after last bolt, fixed that shit and the crap anchor biner too. Good route with some grunt factor.
7b+ Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-09-08
Red point
Red point
Dances With Cows
7c+ Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
2nd Go. Again I'm cleaning up my old unfinished business. Goddamn hard right from the get go easing up a little before bringing the beat down again. Glad to do it quick.
7c+ Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-09-08
Red point
Red point
Blue Light Special
8a Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
3 tries. Yet another route that was beyond me in 2001 when I put the bolts in. This one is very sustained with one tough crux and some very heads up climbing after. Almost like a dream clipping the anchor.
8a Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-09-08
Red point
Red point
Blue Light Special
6c Sport at Smith Rock State Park
3 tries. Yet another route that was beyond me in 2001 when I put the bolts in. This one is very sustained with one tough crux and some very heads up climbing after. Almost like a dream clipping the anchor.
6c Smith Rock State Park Sport 2009-09-08
Red point
Red point
Esplanada
7c Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
1st go today. Another route I bolted and threw myself at to no avail. Needed to marinate on it for a few years I guess. Very first route bolted at the French Cattle Ranch.
7c Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-08-24
Red point
Red point
Super Mama
8a Sport at Ten Sleep / FCR
Great route! Almost second go but sprint technique failed me. Had to slow things down and rest once. Okay I'll take the b.
8a Ten Sleep / FCR Sport 2009-08-24
Red point
Red point
Redhead
7c Sport at Cody / The Island
1st go today. Haven't tried in at least 6 years. No chalk and no draws hanging. A monumental fight, almost pitched a half dozen times. Way harder than anything I've done lately.
7c Cody / The Island Sport 2009-08-14
Red point
Red point
Screaming Night Hog
Tried every other year since it was bolted a decade ago with no luck. 1st go today, even did obligatory shitty slab beginning. way more enjoyable to go up Schools Out then left up the jugs.
7b+ Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-08-10
Red point
Red point
Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome
1st go today. Tried this years ago and couldn't do the boulder problem move. Funky not fun slab to hero pockets out steep bulge then two boulder moves into end of Night Hog.
7c Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-08-10
Red point
Red point
Circus in My Pants
First try this year. Two gos last year and two the previous. Fought hard
7c Ten Sleep / Circus Wall Sport 2009-08-03
Red point
Red point
Crown Prince Abdullah
2nd Go. Damn near flashed. Another brilliant 12+ in a sea of fun 12's. Thanks to Micah for not letting me be a puss, Aaron for bolting it and Alli and Gilly for showing us the way. A fine route!
7c Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-08-03
Red point
Red point
Papa Knows Best
Another long route with much overhanging pockety goodness. Cruxy down low and up high, with pleasant jugginess in between. Pumpy, thuggy and damn fun, with big whip potential up high. Thought it would go quick but stamina proved an issue, 7th go. Straight up from the big flake up high is .13a, sneaking right is easier.
7c+ (7c) Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-07-27
Red point
Red point
Calm Like A Bomb
2 goes today. Bolted this line 8 years ago and could do the moves but could not tie it together, became distracted and gifted it to my buddy the Danimal, haven't tried it since. Steep jugs to boulder problem to reachy finish. Sprinted it like a giant boulder problem. very high quality! glad to put this one to rest.
7c Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-07-06
Red point
Red point
Kablamo
15 clips beginning on Wagon Wheel of Death and busting straight up the bulge. Great route!!
7b+ Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2009-07-01
On-sight
On-sight
The Burden of Immortality
2nd Go. Very good movement my style, first WY. 13, a bit easy though.
7c (7c+) Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2007-07-22
Red point
Red point
Super Love Bliss Machine
Soft. Two finger heaven out a bulge.
7c Ten Sleep / Mondo Beyondo Sport 2005-07-31
Red point
Red point
Aberlour
I originally gave it 11b. but it may settle at 12a. Whoopsie! Slabby, hard.
7a Cody / Single Malt Wall Sport 2004-04-24
FA Flash
FA Flash