Description

Kamienna Góra is a peak in the Central Sudetes in the north-eastern part of the Bystrzyckie Mountains above the Sokołowska Pass in the vicinity of the village of Pokrzywno near Polanica-Zdrój in the Lower Silesian Voivodeship.

🌲 The fairly flat summit surface of the massif is dotted with boulders forming rock debris. In the summits these are relatively weather-resistant quartz sandstone. At the top, on the edge of a large rock block, protected by a railing, there is a view point over Polanica-Zdrój, already somewhat overgrown. It used to be a popular excursion point for visitors from this spa town.

👍 The area is adorned with a vast array of sandstone rocks, each of which offers a unique challenge to climbers. With over two hundred highly respectable routes mapped out so far, it’s a climber's paradise. This destination caters to everyone, from complete beginners to seasoned intermediates and competitive racers. The diversity in climbing experiences here is remarkable, featuring everything from powerful moves and complex boulders to intricate mantels and highly demanding pitches. For those in search of a serious adrenaline rush, several highballs are sure to raise the stakes and get the heart pounding.

💪 The crown jewel of the area is the Dziób Rock, renowned for hosting some of the most challenging boulders. Highlights include the formidable Archimedes 7C, an almost flawless roof climb that requires a bear-like grip, and the stunning Pryzmat 7B+, which demands intense power and precision on solid holds. Venturing a bit further, climbers will encounter Rubikon 7C, notable for its impressive height and challenging ascent. Essential climbs such as Joga 7B, W Ciul Daleko 7A+, Kordylina 7A, and Staropolanka 6C+ are not to be missed, each offering a unique set of challenges and thrills.

⭐ Prosiaczek rock features several slightly easier classic routes, perfect for those looking to build confidence and skill. For those who wish to master the art of friction, Połogi Trójkąt is a must-visit, where expert footwork is crucial. Advanced climbers seeking a true test of their abilities should tackle the likes of Zielony Muppet 7C+ and Achilles 8A. This climbing haven truly has something for everyone, promising an unforgettable adventure filled with a variety of climbs that cater to all skill levels and preferences.

Sources:
1. https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kamienna_Góra_(Góry_Bystrzyckie)
2. Góry magazine, December 2014 - Bouldering topo by Paweł Jelonek

History

The Kamienna Góra bouldering area boasts a rich history that traces back to the early days of climbing in the region. Initially discovered by local climbing enthusiasts in the 1990s, this area quickly gained a reputation for its unique sandstone formations and challenging routes. During the early 2000s, a dedicated group of climbers began developing and documenting the various bouldering problems, marking out the first official lines.

As word spread about the quality and diversity of the climbs, Kamienna Góra attracted more climbers, both local and international. By the early 2010s, it had become a well-known spot in the climbing community. Significant milestones include the establishment of iconic routes such as Archimedes 7C and Pryzmat 7B+, which drew attention from top climbers seeking to test their skills.

In the mid-2010s, the area saw increased development with the introduction of new, more challenging problems. Climbers continued to push the limits, adding routes like Zielony Muppet 7C+ and Achilles 8A. This period also saw efforts to maintain and preserve the natural environment of Kamienna Góra, ensuring sustainable climbing practices.

Today, Kamienna Góra stands as a testament to the dedication and passion of the climbing community. It remains a beloved destination, celebrated for its history, variety of routes, and the vibrant community that continues to grow around it. The area's evolution from a local climbing spot to an highly recognized bouldering haven highlights its significance in the polish bouldering scene.

💚 Most popular and recommended boulders:

🟠 6A - 6A+
- X3, Martwica Mózgu, Lechypouk
- Arachnofobia, Gordons, Duży śpioch, Prachypouk

🟢 6B - 6B+
- Krocze Starej Kurtyzany, Koktajl Mołotowa, X1, Róg Odyna
- Glej, XXX, Gin Lubuski

🔵 6C - 6C+
- NN, Kurtyzana, Frustracja, Lewypiłkoszał
- Staropolanka

🔴 7A - 7A+
- Kordylina, Wybór należy do Ciebie, Przyczajony Tygrys
- W ciul daleko, Czernina, Lotos

🟣 7B - 7B+
- Joga, Hipnotyzer lewy, Hathajoga,
- Pryzmat, Zberezina,

⚫ 7C - 7C+
- Hipnotyzer prawy, Achilles, Archimedes
- Carnajs, Venom, Zielony Muppet, Fiasko low

⚪ 8A - 8A+
- Archimedes SD, Pryzmat SD, Achilles SD, Carnajs-Zberezina combo

💪💪🏾💪🏿 8B
- Painkiller

Routes on Kamienna Góra
268 boulder 73 Likes
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Kamienna Góra

The area is access sensitive!

⚠️ Due to the high intensity of climbing traffic in Kamienna Góra, and the consequent adverse effect on the condition of the forest and the relationship between the Bystrzyca Kłodzka Forest District (Kamienna Góra Forestry) and climbers, we would like to remind you of some basic rules regarding behaviour in the area.

🚫 The following apply:

- ban on burning fires in the forest,
- no staying in the sector after dark,
- order to leave cars only in permitted areas,
- an obligation to clean boulders from chalk after climbing!

🅿️ Suitable parking spots are marked on the map 🗺️.

During the 2015 site visit, stones were designated where climbing is permitted. All these stones will be included in this topo. It is forbidden to clear new stones without the permission of the Forestry Commission!

⚠️ In July 2015, at the request of the Forestry Inspectorate, we requested the RDOŚ Wrocław to interpret the nature protection regulations with regard to climbing in the Kamienna Góra area. The response of the RDOŚ is not clear, nevertheless it indicates the dangers of bouldering and the basic rules of behaviour.

🌲 The Forestry Commission has approached us with a proposal to conclude an agreement regulating climbing in Kamienna Góra, which will include the following necessary conditions, i.e:

- apart from PZA, the Bystrzyca Kłodzka Commune will also be a party to the agreement;

- making and accepting by the Forest Inspectorate the natural inventory of the 8220 habitat by a phytosociologist specialist in terms of indicating places designated for climbing; the cost of making the expert opinion will be borne by the interested party;

- formulation of rules and regulations for the use of the said area by climbers together with the definition of the civil and legal liability of the users of the area in case of dangerous events and accidents;

- marking the area in question with a view to making the area available for climbing.

Source:
IŚW „Nasze Skały”