Hannah O'Brien

Very fun climbing over the cave! I started and finished further away and got in a nice traverse of the whole wall. Loved it!

Got to say "hi" to lots of birds 🐦!

Nice!

Beautiful!

Funny how something so easy can become so hard with water involved 🤣

Some good moves.

Beautiful high-ball 😍.

It felt harder than Scrubs for me, with some power moves. Surprisingly fun!

Nice moves

Fin klättring!

Skönt om man inte orkar göra klart Lilla Flickan men ändå lite klurigt att se greppen.

Det tog ett tag att lista ut! Blev en riktigt fin beta!

Den ser så lurigt lätt ut och jag blev lurad! Nu är fingrarna lite tjockare och lite blodigare.

Jag klättrade Turborg Direkt först och sedan övade lite placeringar på den översta delen vid nedfirning (inte självklara, med små aliens). Själva klättringen kändes lagom och fin 😀.

Mindre pirrig än Tuborg Stark men också mycket fin!

Seemed quite straightforward 🙃

Despite the moisture very enjoyable! I didn't notice the run-out ☺.

Hard to place gear in some sections- thank goodness for the pitons! otherwise a nice even route!

Even, sustained climbing. Nice!

Would have felt easier with some beta tips but it was a good adventure!

Felt like a 7a with my short-person, less explosive beta. But the guys made it look easy! More tries and more fun for me though I think!

Very nice! Practical with small fingers 😉

Fun!

Very enjoyable!

😎 Cool mantle.

I'm a shorty so had to climb the crack when I got to it but the traverse into it made it feel like it lived up to the grade anyway. Good fun.

Powerful start move (if you are short like me) and it was fun that there was no chalk giving away the holds when I climbed it. It gave an adrenaline kick and I loved it from start to finish 😍

No grade required but a worthwhile, fun adventure :)

Lucky I tried it when the friction was good!

I started with a low start which resulted in a couple of extra moves and a lot more fun! Would also increase the grade a few notches as well (6c?)

En bra variant för kortisar!

Jag uppskattade verkligen sloperserna i början! Känns som om graden stämmer fortfarande ;)

When you get to that point where someone bellow says "okay, now you're in the no fall zone. Good luck!"

Possible inversion fun ;)

Even more fun with the sit start.

Damn it! Was looking forward to ticking a 7b (as in the book) but fair is fair 😆. Esthetic rock, not so esthetic moves.

Didn't realise you needed to go to the right to do the top-out (for 7A+) but loved the start!

Nice moves. Not kind on the skin.

Even, clean climbing! It looked as though it would be scary to get to the first placement but it didn't feel like an issue when on the wall.

Lagom utmanade med en förkylning. Mysig takklättring !

Great, varied line!

I liked the mantle

What a beauty!

Verkligheten på gränsen med dagsform! Roligt!

Ett år efter flera timmars fruktlössökande efter problemet i skogen var vi tillbaka och lyckades lokalisera taksprikan i dess fina grotta. problemet levererade och var väl vart allt sökande. Uppdaterad koordinater finns här: 63.323771,19.011604

Ren och fin.

Det går alltid att hitta bra grepp. Bra variation.

Klättrade som en off-width!

Jag tyckte ett roligt problem som borde klättras oftare! Nu är det nyborstat så passa på! Greppen blir progressivt bättre så jag tyckte inte den var så läskig. Men kändes också som problemet passade mig (som är lätt och smydig). Jag såg inga bra placeringar så jag körde som high-ball. Kul!

perfekt nivå för dws! Önskar att jag hade njutit mer men jag var inte super bekväm 😜

jämn och fin.

En kul resa!

Kändes som en riktig äventyr! Passar så bra som en mixad led med sprickan på toppen.

Inte helt lätt. Kul!

jämn och lättsäkrad

rolig men kort!

kul men för myggigt!

Bra spricka! Nervigt svar!

Mycket fin fingerspricka! Ibland är det praktiska att ha små fingrar!

Kul!

Hal men rolig!

Ja! Roligt!

mycket fint! Inte alltid lätt läst men det går!

Samma krux som Dystopia väl?

super roliga grepp!

Vi gjorde två varianter som uppvärmning- den ena med start med händerna i sprickan till höger; den andra med sloperstart till vänster. Både var ungefär lika svåra.

Body position was everything!

Used some body tention! Nice moves!

Did a sitstart from Samarkands start. What an adventure! Felt as hard as 7a for me but I'm not one to argue with Bleau grades. Great climb!

Felt like quite original moves. Very enjoyable!

Superroligt! Det var en riktig fight i taket och är så tungt i överhänget, så jag vågar faktiskt tycka att den förtjänar 7a.

Tog några minuter att hitta rätt beta för att kunna etablera och sedan några minuter till för att kravla sig upp till toppen! Super kul "chicken-wing" klättring!

Jag testade att klättra lite olika varianter men spelade in den varianten som jag hoppades att Mats skulle tycka var mest "kosher". Det är så klart svårt att sätta en grad på ett sånt här problem eftersom klättrarens storlek spelar så stor roll. För mig var Revolvern klart enklare än både Klassklyftan (6c+) och För fet för att fistas (6C) men det är nog tvärtom för större personer.

Det fanns flera grepp däruppe än det såg ut. Rolig utmaning att komma runt "taket"!

Plenty of good holds with some longer moves between them.

Kul när man använder sprickan så mycket som möjligt 😀

Trodde jag skulle behöva off-width skills sista biten. Blev besviken 😞

Lärvade mig på en konstiga starten vid första försöket men resan av problemet var väldigt självklart.

Sällan man hittar ett så fint takproblem runt denna grad. Tack till min man för beta-tips under färden!

A true off-width! Jag älskade avslutningen i taket och uppskattad bultarna som fanns däruppe. Vilken upplevelse! Sandbag gradering som vanligt på off-width ;p

Hade haft roligare om jag hade haft med mig flera cams i mitten registret. Det blev väldigt mycket run-out vilket förstörde upplevelsen lite grann. Jag är inte heller super stor fan av flaksprickor.

I really liked the start and middle sections. Last bit was so dirty that my eyes got full of dirt but the holds were good up there so it was managable anyway.

I understand why it's popular :)

Rolig storlek. Synd att det blev lite för lätt att fuska sig runt off-width-teknikerna.

Välsäkrad, bra klättring.

En riktigt jamspricka!

bra variation i sprickstorlek.

Ett kvitto på att jam-träningen går åt rätt håll! Riktigt häftigt problem!

Jag tyckte inte att partiet direkt över bulten kändes så väl säkrad. Leden var en utmaning i 30 graders värme men jag tror att den är svårare än 6b+ oavsett vädret.

Känns som en sportled. Välsäkrat och riktigt kul!

Stolt över min 6åring som följde rent!

Fin.

Najs, ovanliga moves. Riktigt kul!

Mycket fint! Passade mig.

Gick som andra man. Mycket trevligt med både hand- och fistjams.

Kändes rätt farlig och inte så fin klättring.

Fin led.

Mycket trevligt tyckte jag. Ganska så utmanade.

Roligt hur svårt det kan vara att hålla balansen!!

Väldigt asterisk!

Tung start med både händer på startcrimpern (6c). Med sidepull start är det kan 6a.

Vad är detta? Bra fråga. Men lite kul ändå.

Utmanade sitstart. Roligt problem!

With the beta down it works like a dream!

startade på greppen så lite längre personer når - för rättvisans skulle;) Verkligen min stil! Tack till Bart och Sofia för borstningen!

Plenty of variety.

A high ball with good holds but still plenty of style points!

A perfectly "designed" Font. problem! Beautiful.

A good way to burn some calories!

Felt like a good safe landing despite the hight. Great fun!

Nice.

Wonderful!

Crimps on highball. Nice!

Some interesting moves!

Very enjoyable! I was able to use some ring locks and foot jams in the little crack.

Fitted the grade, perhaps only because I am so short.

Good fun!

Harder and even more fun!!

fun top out!

Nice!

Font feeling

Nice, beginner roof.

Messed about on the top out.

I was lucky to do this while I still had plenty of power.

The other alternative would have required a big dyno.

SS. Long, varied and exciting 😀

An explosive move in the middle for me.

should have saved the big cams for the top! 😜

Lätt säkrad med stora cams och roligt med!

Trevligt.

Fint.

Varied and interesting climbing. Helped when I'd dialed the beata and preplace quickdraws!

A slightly intimidating, beautiful crack! Pretty straight forward and even climbing.

Perhaps easier for me my little hands.

Mysig klättring. Värt en tur ut i skogen!

Fun inverted off-width with fist hand stacks (at least for little hands)!

A great place to practice hand jams :)

Took a few tries to dial the beata. Also made me feel short. But really enjoyable climbing!

A long, even climb with less jugs than first hoped for ;)

Perhaps an easy 7a but pretty damn cool ;)

A beautiful crack climb.

I agree with Felix.

I didn't enjoy this one unfortunatly. I don't think the mantle justifies the grade 6c but I might be being unfair :P

Ganska kul klättring. Går att fira ned sig från ankaret till vänster när man kommer upp.

En riktig lagom led!

Challenging and varied climbing! A little difficult to read but if you stay where it's clean you're off to a good start ;) Includes some nice hand jams towards the top!

Nice crux :)

A lovely route! Almost like an indoor climb with a great range of moves on clear holds. Definitely thought it felt like 7a but I was pretty tired so I could be wrong.

Such a varied climb! Definitely deserves the grade just for the start move in my (short) humble opinion. The rest of the climb is good fun but by no means a piece of cake 🎂 .

Very even climbing! Enjoyed it thoroughly, even with my kids chucking tantrums in the background! Plenty of good crimps but could be unnerving to protect as it's a long way to fall between bolts!

Did onsight on Gollum and thought this was harder but also great fun. Felt like there was a risk for a ground fall between bolts 2 and 3 though so important with an active belay.

Great crux section! Definitely achieves the grade in my books. Would have liked to continue to the top but heard rumours of a swooping buzzard and thought it best to keep my distance. 🦅

Really enjoyable, even climbing! Managed it second try in hot humid conditions so probably more of a 7a+ as the guidbook suggests.

Didn't enjoy this one so much but get your own opinion 😉

Should this climb perhaps be renamed "spider web wall"? 🕷. Otherwise, a very nice trad crack!

Nice warm up for the big wall 👍

Felt like the only pitch on Bohemian Rapsody that wasn't sandbaged (?).

Very interesting climbing! Felt harder than 6c but may I'm just not adapted to big wall climbing ;p

A very enjoyable climb! I agree with earlier comments that using the crack at the top makes it feel more like 7b and that it would feel unnatural to not use it (even if the guidbook condones the use of the crack and still grades at 7b+).

Så fin! Verkar som en svår led att onsighta men riktigt trevliga moves när man vet vad man ska göra.

I know that the rest of the route is easy but the starting crux certainly added a few grades, at least for a shorty like me! But well worth the battle!

Trevlig!

Enjoyed this one!

Rolig klättring. Rolig crux.

I haven't seen or heard of others using my beta on the crux (involving a gaston move to the right of the bolt line) but for a super shorty like me it was a good alternative which doesn't diminish the grade.

Jag använde mig av slopern också. Hade varit betydligt häftigare att inte använda den men kroppen lyssnade inte ;)

Nice, varied crack climb. Perhaps better anchor points if you continue up on "Mullorna och pilen".

Nice clean crack :) Didn't look so nice to continue up on the first bit of the second pitch but was possible to traverse over to other lines.

After an initial crux the rest of the climb involved even and unusual climbing. It transported me to a coconut palm on a tropical beach ;)

I mantled the "roof" to the right of the crack. Mantling with the crack - as it continues on the slab - may be possible but will significantly increase the grade of the climb. I'll give it a brush and try again some time!

Easy to place some good nuts. Fun to climb on such a tiny crack!

Time to work on the lead! Beautiful climbing!

Quite fun.

A good way to get warm on a cold (even rainy) day.

I thought this one was fun and quite interesting - felt a little like having a wrestling match with a wall :)

Not sure I did this one correctly as I ended up on the shelf to the left of the anchor and then had to traverse over to clip in. Didn't have time to try Dansa med mygor but it looked much harder than the variation.

A very enjoyable climb! Easy going into the first two (high placed) clips and then exciting and sustained climbing to the top!

Didn't enjoy this one so much. Few bolts.

Beautiful line.

Nice climb. Should have done up my shoes properly first ;)

Superkul!

Rolig klättring!

Trevligt!

Tyckte att det kändes som en 5 när jag var ouppvärmed iaf!

Bra grep, lite explosivt.

Inte jättesvår men lite förvirande. Blev en rolig svank i början.

Saknade min kalkpåse första försöket. Kändes nästa som repklättring :)

I really hope this climb remains unbolted. A nice trad-route which can be climbed safely with the appropriate gear (mainly smaller range cams).

Blev lite förvirrad med alla förklippta quickdraws och råkade klättra vidare till Orups ankare med det påverkade inte graden så mycket. Ganska jämn klättring men den fick mig att känna mig klumpig.

Such nice crack climbs are rare around Uppsala, so not something alot of us are used to- but well worth it! We found three great placements for gear.

Nice natural line with some nice crux moves. Mixed climbing (trad at the beginning and then 4 bolts and an anchor point. Risk for granade sized holds coming loose immediately to the left of the second bold.

Fun if you fall from up on the nose when your about to clip :D

Have previously climbed with use of crack righ nose but read that this should be eliminated so I did a repeat without it- felt though that this was very unnatural and also up-ed the level to perhaps 7a.

An easy way to make yourself feel cool! 8)

Fantastic, even climbing. Beautiful!

An unusual climb. Quite alright.

kort men fin och lättsäkrad.

tydlig krux.

Väldigt fin led särkilt för sin grad - dvs interesanta moves, ingen jug-fest.

Finaste leden på klippan? Jämn, utmanande och superrolig klättring.

Det är inte så ofta jag får chansen att klättra en så lång och fin led :) För min del tyckte jag att graden stämde rätt bra också.

Scary but epic. Certainly felt easier than 6c plus especially with all the well chalked holds.

That feeling when you do a crux move you never thought was possible :D I'll have to be more careful drawing the "I'm too short" card in the future!

Lite ojämn led men väldigt rolig crux!

Inte så övertygad om denna led.

Jag tycker ändå att det är lite episkt med traverse ;p

I like Connection better but this was quite nice too.

Suprised that others downgrade this route- for a shorty like me I felt that I was pushing my limit to clip the anchor.

förvånansvärt jämn och fin klättring.

Ihålig klättring på krimpar.

As a trad beginner this was terrifying on a rather still too wet cliff! but certainly a nice natural line!

Nice route. Felt longer than it is. lots of bolts nowadays.

Loved projecting this route! It really is a fun line. There's a long run out at the top so it's a good idea to add some gear in the crack after the last bolt.

Might be harder if you have big fingers. Good thing I don't ;)

synd att ankaret är dåligt placerad för att sätta upp top-rep åt barnen. Det går bäst att rigga mellan ankaret och bulten på leden bredvid.

Took a fall or two to figure out the beta. The climbing was relatively easy once the beta was in place but that's one of the rewards of problem solving ;)

Newly refurbished and bolted. This climb will be a well appreciated lower grade climb in the area.

What an amazing problem! I have to work the beta for a long time before I finally got it done- now it feels like I could do it in my sleep ;) First outdoor 7a so I'm stoked!

jämn, mysig klättring. Roligt att trada på en så stor vägg!

I really love this line! Between the not so bad cracks it gives the appearance of climbing on a blank wall - which made a good party trick for my newbie-climber friends to watch ;)

The kind of crimps which make you make a lot of noise (Ondra style). Great fun!

For a shorty like me this was a real challenge! Lost count of my failed attempts but finally conquered it! Love it!

Great fun with the easier trad section and then bolts when things get more serious!

Fick tänka till lite trots graden ;)

2nd attempt. Really enjoyed the crux!

Ojämn klättring men man kände sig exponerat på ett häftigt sätt mot toppen :)

Ganska bra variation.

I wish I could have figured out the crux for the 7b section to continue up the wall - luckily there was an anchor to come down again ;)

En kul led! Lagom med grep :)

rent och fint

nästan säkert utan säkring :p

An enjoyable, not so scary trad climb.

En fin led (extra rolig om man skippa juggan i toppen!)

Jag tyckte att denna led var väldigt roligt. Jag instämmer med rådet till kortisar att förbereda med quick-draws. Jag såg dock rådet lite för sent - kändes nästan för lätt sen när quick-draws fanns på plats ;P

Lite cruxigt efter det stora handtaget men ganska mycket att arbeta med ändå.

Sit start. 6B? Thrilling with numb fingers.

Plenty of nice moves dispite the low hight.

Nice one to start with!

I didn't enjoy this one. Sharp holds and seems to missing a bolt before the top.

Fun climb! cool crux. Fully bolted.

Fun and with nice varied crimps!

polished holds at the start.

good for practicing trad!

Even and crimpy.

Forgot my climbing shoes so must have been reasonable footholds (with 6 sizes too big shoes). A little scary before the second clip though.

Looked like a simple staircase from the ground, hence the name, but was suprisingly more interesting. Not the kind of route you want to fall on and some wet holds but all in all quite an adventure, particularly for someone who's used to climbing shorter routes.

The start was fun! Pitty it's so uneven in level.

one of the nicer problems I tried on this boulder.

A bit of fun. Bouldery and a bit reachy.

What a climb! Love the bit with the little finger pocket.

I really enjoyed this one! After the crux I didn't find much of a rest - so it was pumpy almost to the top.

Led with a sling through top anchor to create an extra clipping point.

Svår uttoppning