Hannah O'Brien

Fin klättring!

Skönt om man inte orkar göra klart Lilla Flickan men ändå lite klurigt att se greppen.

Det tog ett tag att lista ut! Blev en riktigt fin beta!

Den ser så lurigt lätt ut och jag blev lurad! Nu är fingrarna lite tjockare och lite blodigare.

Jag klättrade Turborg Direkt först och sedan övade lite placeringar på den översta delen vid nedfirning (inte självklara, med små aliens). Själva klättringen kändes lagom och fin 😀.

Mindre pirrig än Tuborg Stark men också mycket fin!

Seemed quite straightforward 🙃

Despite the moisture very enjoyable! I didn't notice the run-out ☺.

Hard to place gear in some sections- thank goodness for the pitons! otherwise a nice even route!

Even, sustained climbing. Nice!

Even, clean climbing! It looked as though it would be scary to get to the first placement but it didn't feel like an issue when on the wall.

Lagom utmanade med en förkylning. Mysig takklättring !

Verkligheten på gränsen med dagsform! Roligt!

Ren och fin.

Det går alltid att hitta bra grepp. Bra variation.

Jag tyckte ett roligt problem som borde klättras oftare! Nu är det nyborstat så passa på! Greppen blir progressivt bättre så jag tyckte inte den var så läskig. Men kändes också som problemet passade mig (som är lätt och smydig). Jag såg inga bra placeringar så jag körde som high-ball. Kul!

jämn och fin.

En kul resa!

Kändes som en riktig äventyr! Passar så bra som en mixad led med sprickan på toppen.

Inte helt lätt. Kul!

jämn och lättsäkrad

rolig men kort!

Bra spricka! Nervigt svar!

Mycket fin fingerspricka! Ibland är det praktiska att ha små fingrar!

Kul!

Hal men rolig!

Ja! Roligt!

mycket fint! Inte alltid lätt läst men det går!

Samma krux som Dystopia väl?

Superroligt! Det var en riktig fight i taket och är så tungt i överhänget, så jag vågar faktiskt tycka att den förtjänar 7a.

Det fanns flera grepp däruppe än det såg ut. Rolig utmaning att komma runt "taket"!

Plenty of good holds with some longer moves between them.

A true off-width! Jag älskade avslutningen i taket och uppskattad bultarna som fanns däruppe. Vilken upplevelse! Sandbag gradering som vanligt på off-width ;p

Hade haft roligare om jag hade haft med mig flera cams i mitten registret. Det blev väldigt mycket run-out vilket förstörde upplevelsen lite grann. Jag är inte heller super stor fan av flaksprickor.

I really liked the start and middle sections. Last bit was so dirty that my eyes got full of dirt but the holds were good up there so it was managable anyway.

I understand why it's popular :)

Rolig storlek. Synd att det blev lite för lätt att fuska sig runt off-width-teknikerna.

Välsäkrad, bra klättring.

En riktigt jamspricka!

bra variation i sprickstorlek.

Jag tyckte inte att partiet direkt över bulten kändes så väl säkrad. Leden var en utmaning i 30 graders värme men jag tror att den är svårare än 6b+ oavsett vädret.

Känns som en sportled. Välsäkrat och riktigt kul!

Stolt över min 6åring som följde rent!

Fin.

Najs, ovanliga moves. Riktigt kul!

Mycket fint! Passade mig.

Gick som andra man. Mycket trevligt med både hand- och fistjams.

Kändes rätt farlig och inte så fin klättring.

Fin led.

Mycket trevligt tyckte jag. Ganska så utmanade.

Some interesting moves!

Very enjoyable! I was able to use some ring locks and foot jams in the little crack.

should have saved the big cams for the top! 😜

Lätt säkrad med stora cams och roligt med!

Trevligt.

Fint.

Varied and interesting climbing. Helped when I'd dialed the beata and preplace quickdraws!

A slightly intimidating, beautiful crack! Pretty straight forward and even climbing.

Took a few tries to dial the beata. Also made me feel short. But really enjoyable climbing!

A long, even climb with less jugs than first hoped for ;)

Perhaps an easy 7a but pretty damn cool ;)

A beautiful crack climb.

I agree with Felix.

I didn't enjoy this one unfortunatly. I don't think the mantle justifies the grade 6c but I might be being unfair :P

Ganska kul klättring. Går att fira ned sig från ankaret till vänster när man kommer upp.

En riktig lagom led!

Challenging and varied climbing! A little difficult to read but if you stay where it's clean you're off to a good start ;) Includes some nice hand jams towards the top!

Nice crux :)

A lovely route! Almost like an indoor climb with a great range of moves on clear holds. Definitely thought it felt like 7a but I was pretty tired so I could be wrong.

Such a varied climb! Definitely deserves the grade just for the start move in my (short) humble opinion. The rest of the climb is good fun but by no means a piece of cake 🎂 .

Very even climbing! Enjoyed it thoroughly, even with my kids chucking tantrums in the background! Plenty of good crimps but could be unnerving to protect as it's a long way to fall between bolts!

Did onsight on Gollum and thought this was harder but also great fun. Felt like there was a risk for a ground fall between bolts 2 and 3 though so important with an active belay.

Great crux section! Definitely achieves the grade in my books. Would have liked to continue to the top but heard rumours of a swooping buzzard and thought it best to keep my distance. 🦅

Really enjoyable, even climbing! Managed it second try in hot humid conditions so probably more of a 7a+ as the guidbook suggests.

Didn't enjoy this one so much but get your own opinion 😉

Should this climb perhaps be renamed "spider web wall"? 🕷. Otherwise, a very nice trad crack!

Nice warm up for the big wall 👍

Felt like the only pitch on Bohemian Rapsody that wasn't sandbaged (?).

Very interesting climbing! Felt harder than 6c but may I'm just not adapted to big wall climbing ;p

A very enjoyable climb! I agree with earlier comments that using the crack at the top makes it feel more like 7b and that it would feel unnatural to not use it (even if the guidbook condones the use of the crack and still grades at 7b+).

Så fin! Verkar som en svår led att onsighta men riktigt trevliga moves när man vet vad man ska göra.

I know that the rest of the route is easy but the starting crux certainly added a few grades, at least for a shorty like me! But well worth the battle!

Trevlig!

Enjoyed this one!

Rolig klättring. Rolig crux.

I haven't seen or heard of others using my beta on the crux (involving a gaston move to the right of the bolt line) but for a super shorty like me it was a good alternative which doesn't diminish the grade.

Nice, varied crack climb. Perhaps better anchor points if you continue up on "Mullorna och pilen".

Nice clean crack :) Didn't look so nice to continue up on the first bit of the second pitch but was possible to traverse over to other lines.

After an initial crux the rest of the climb involved even and unusual climbing. It transported me to a coconut palm on a tropical beach ;)

I mantled the "roof" to the right of the crack. Mantling with the crack - as it continues on the slab - may be possible but will significantly increase the grade of the climb. I'll give it a brush and try again some time!

Easy to place some good nuts. Fun to climb on such a tiny crack!

Time to work on the lead! Beautiful climbing!

Quite fun.

A good way to get warm on a cold (even rainy) day.

I thought this one was fun and quite interesting - felt a little like having a wrestling match with a wall :)

Not sure I did this one correctly as I ended up on the shelf to the left of the anchor and then had to traverse over to clip in. Didn't have time to try Dansa med mygor but it looked much harder than the variation.

A very enjoyable climb! Easy going into the first two (high placed) clips and then exciting and sustained climbing to the top!

Didn't enjoy this one so much. Few bolts.

Beautiful line.

I really hope this climb remains unbolted. A nice trad-route which can be climbed safely with the appropriate gear (mainly smaller range cams).

Blev lite förvirrad med alla förklippta quickdraws och råkade klättra vidare till Orups ankare med det påverkade inte graden så mycket. Ganska jämn klättring men den fick mig att känna mig klumpig.

Such nice crack climbs are rare around Uppsala, so not something alot of us are used to- but well worth it! We found three great placements for gear.

Nice natural line with some nice crux moves. Mixed climbing (trad at the beginning and then 4 bolts and an anchor point. Risk for granade sized holds coming loose immediately to the left of the second bold.

Fun if you fall from up on the nose when your about to clip :D

Have previously climbed with use of crack righ nose but read that this should be eliminated so I did a repeat without it- felt though that this was very unnatural and also up-ed the level to perhaps 7a.

An easy way to make yourself feel cool! 8)

Fantastic, even climbing. Beautiful!

An unusual climb. Quite alright.

kort men fin och lättsäkrad.

tydlig krux.

Väldigt fin led särkilt för sin grad - dvs interesanta moves, ingen jug-fest.

Finaste leden på klippan? Jämn, utmanande och superrolig klättring.

Det är inte så ofta jag får chansen att klättra en så lång och fin led :) För min del tyckte jag att graden stämde rätt bra också.

Scary but epic. Certainly felt easier than 6c plus especially with all the well chalked holds.

That feeling when you do a crux move you never thought was possible :D I'll have to be more careful drawing the "I'm too short" card in the future!

Lite ojämn led men väldigt rolig crux!

Inte så övertygad om denna led.

Jag tycker ändå att det är lite episkt med traverse ;p

I like Connection better but this was quite nice too.

Suprised that others downgrade this route- for a shorty like me I felt that I was pushing my limit to clip the anchor.

förvånansvärt jämn och fin klättring.

Ihålig klättring på krimpar.

As a trad beginner this was terrifying on a rather still too wet cliff! but certainly a nice natural line!

Nice route. Felt longer than it is. lots of bolts nowadays.

Loved projecting this route! It really is a fun line. There's a long run out at the top so it's a good idea to add some gear in the crack after the last bolt.

Might be harder if you have big fingers. Good thing I don't ;)

synd att ankaret är dåligt placerad för att sätta upp top-rep åt barnen. Det går bäst att rigga mellan ankaret och bulten på leden bredvid.

Took a fall or two to figure out the beta. The climbing was relatively easy once the beta was in place but that's one of the rewards of problem solving ;)

Newly refurbished and bolted. This climb will be a well appreciated lower grade climb in the area.

jämn, mysig klättring. Roligt att trada på en så stor vägg!

I really love this line! Between the not so bad cracks it gives the appearance of climbing on a blank wall - which made a good party trick for my newbie-climber friends to watch ;)

The kind of crimps which make you make a lot of noise (Ondra style). Great fun!

For a shorty like me this was a real challenge! Lost count of my failed attempts but finally conquered it! Love it!

Great fun with the easier trad section and then bolts when things get more serious!

Fick tänka till lite trots graden ;)

2nd attempt. Really enjoyed the crux!

Ojämn klättring men man kände sig exponerat på ett häftigt sätt mot toppen :)

Ganska bra variation.

I wish I could have figured out the crux for the 7b section to continue up the wall - luckily there was an anchor to come down again ;)

En kul led! Lagom med grep :)

rent och fint

nästan säkert utan säkring :p

An enjoyable, not so scary trad climb.

En fin led (extra rolig om man skippa juggan i toppen!)

Jag tyckte att denna led var väldigt roligt. Jag instämmer med rådet till kortisar att förbereda med quick-draws. Jag såg dock rådet lite för sent - kändes nästan för lätt sen när quick-draws fanns på plats ;P

Lite cruxigt efter det stora handtaget men ganska mycket att arbeta med ändå.

I didn't enjoy this one. Sharp holds and seems to missing a bolt before the top.

Fun climb! cool crux. Fully bolted.

Fun and with nice varied crimps!

polished holds at the start.

good for practicing trad!

Even and crimpy.

Forgot my climbing shoes so must have been reasonable footholds (with 6 sizes too big shoes). A little scary before the second clip though.

Looked like a simple staircase from the ground, hence the name, but was suprisingly more interesting. Not the kind of route you want to fall on and some wet holds but all in all quite an adventure, particularly for someone who's used to climbing shorter routes.

The start was fun! Pitty it's so uneven in level.

A bit of fun. Bouldery and a bit reachy.

What a climb! Love the bit with the little finger pocket.

I really enjoyed this one! After the crux I didn't find much of a rest - so it was pumpy almost to the top.

Led with a sling through top anchor to create an extra clipping point.

Free solo

Free solo

Challanging crux at the top :)