Hannu-Pekka Hyppänen

Tykkäsin. Kruxi ei tuntunu ihan tyypilliselta 6a:lta.

Olipas mieluisa pikku muuvittelu

Lämppäriksi tätä kiivetty ja tuntuu tiukalta 6a:lta

Vähän oli taas likainen yläosasta mutta silti erittäin hyvä. Greidiinsä nähden rapea ainakin hellekitkoilla. Jotenki tuntui samantasoiselta ku Hybrishalkeama.

Hieno. Oispa pidempi.

With Salla. We came benieth this few days ago but chose to climb "Blod eller gull" as "Månedans" didnt seem good from benieth. After looking this one from caravan for one evening, we chose to return for it. It was worth it, definately good. In the first pitch there was some shit, but 3rd pitch is the shit. 2 stars for thr 3rd pitch alone.

With Salla. Excellent route with good climbing all the way. P3 crack was nice but somehow tricky for my footwork.

Magnificent! With Salla. Led 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9

With Salla. It was excellent. I led 1st and 3rd pitch (7- version).

With Salla. Led both pitches. Quite a wrestle that first pitch. Body jamming skills come in handy as well as #5 or #6 cam. Second pitch is really nice. And easier than first.

Really pleasent pitch

Really nice! 2nd go

Cruxy and really good! 2nd go

One spacious bolt distance.

Long and continuous

Short but technical and nice moves

World class

Superb

Superb tufas and more

Steep and short 6b

Spaced protection

L1

Great route. Especially second pitch. Led 1st and 2nd.

Great second pitch. Also first pitch has some extraordinary climbing for Lofoten towards the end. Direkte-insteget is not worth it. Last pitch is short but includes some nice moves also.

Good easy route. NOTE that first pitch of Smeagul and Gollum are reversed here in 27 picture and also in the Rockfax topo. Smeagul is on the left and Gollum on the right. Gollum starts on top of a boulder. Gollum also continues straight up from first stand. Grades and descriptions are correct, Gollum being 5 and Smeagul 5+.

Excellent! Even the first easy pitch was great. Led all.

Good route but not as great jammin as expected. Tricky approach.

Led 2nd and 4th. Pretty good route. Descent is somewhat interesting and requires scrambling, lowering or simu downclimbing + abseil anchor searching. Abseil anchor is hidden above a slab with dark lines. We downclimbed/scrambled the descent route for about 30m simu and then climbed up the easy slab about 10 m to reach the abseil anchor.

Good first pitch and great second pitch (for the grade).

Sweet!

Sweet!

Good and long for the grade

Good and long for the grade

Good route, but felt much harder than other 6b:s in Costa Blanca. Or I just had bad day.

Felt good and harder than 6b+. Would be even better if some diligent person would clear the bush in the end.

Good climbing, but first bolt is too high (although climbing is easy) and there's also run-out in the end that might scare someone off. Two more bolts and it would be even better.

Propably was worth two stars ten years ago. Now its polished.

First bolt is too high for beginner, even though 3+ climbing makes it easy to gain.

Great five. First bolt is too high for beginner, even though 3+ climbing makes it easy to gain. I would give three stars for climb itself though.

Absolutely amazing route.

Worn out but still superb climbing

Polished, but still ok

One bolt acts as anchor. I left a locking carabiner there for lower offs. The last bolt below had a maillon for back up. Maillon was screwable in Nov 2018.

Clipping anchor

Spacious bolting

Spacious bolting in upper part + ledges below

Strange bolting.

Better than it looks

Great climbing all the way.

Pure greatness. First part is relatively hard to read though.

Dangerous start

Easy positive slab leading to superb climbing until the anchor. Not so easy to on-sight.

Good variety of climbing in one route. Not so sustained but good.

Felt really hard for 6a

Put your jamming pants on.

Excellent route. 6a below is fun with clear crux. After the mid anchor the end part is slightly negative with relatively good holds. The pump increases as you flow through the sequences. Holds were wet on my 1st attempt and fell from last hold on 2nd attempt. Did it on 3rd attempt and enjoyed a lot.

Great route. After clipping the second bolt above ledge, I recommend unclipping the two below to reduce rope drag. Its pretty easy to do.

Excellent route. Diagonal shape didn't bother me as few extendable quickdraws helped to reduce rope drag.

First ascent with Jukka Leinonen

First ascent with Jukka Leinonen

FA with Jukka Leinonen.

FA with Jukka Leinonen. Really nice pitch.

Expedition with M.Talvenmäki & H.Paalanen. I don't start quessing the grade. Go figure yourself.

First ascent with Jukka Leinonen

Great route. Huge hornets rewarded me with three stings at the anchor.

Awesome route

Loose rock and wierd moves. Antistar for this one!

This route offers really nice set of moves. Mantra gives a reason to visit this crag, even though the miljö is what it is.

Date or year not exact

Date or year not exact

A real classic!

Lead p 1, 3, 5

Eliminanteista huolimatta selkeä reittilinja.

First recorded ascent with Jukka Leinonen and Olli-Pekka Kaurahalme.

Seconded Jukka on our FA expedition

FA with Jukka Leinonen. Absolutely great pitch.

First recorded ascent with Jukka Leinonen and Olli-Pekka Kaurahalme.

Tämä tuli kiivettyä ensi kerran joskus 2011 kesällä. Ei mitään käryä tarkasta päivästä. Raportoitu vasta 2013.

date not exact