Kasper Ingelvide

Quite desperate near the top on the onsight but held it together somehow.

Beautiful pocket climbing in overhanging terrain! Soft.

Unexpectedly good.

2nd go.

Balancy!

Be careful below the roof, sketchy bolting.

Super good! First try, but I did the shared start previously when climbing the left exit.

2ns go. Hard boulder move if you go straight up. Might be easier if you go far to the right.

2nd go. Overhanging pocket climbing!

Quite run out with a loose block in the middle.

Huge run-outs. Not for beginners.

2nd go. Great cruxy route. Felt stiff for the grade, but I guess it's the altitude.

My first 7a at a 2000m elevation! Soft.

Great route! Pumpy for 7a.

Good route, but the holds feel quite brittle. The anchor should probably be replaced soon.

Nice undercling traverse! First try, but I've climbed the routes to the first anchor before.

Revenge 6 years later, haha!

After a lot of cursing, I had to give in and admit that the arête was the way and not straight up. I think a direct line is possible, but it will be way harder.

Feels good to be back on granite again after a week on limestone!

What a line! Beautiful!

Perfect no-hands tufa kneebar!

Desperate top but otherwise a perfect route!

Beautiful and so fun to climb!

Sharp!

So cool!

Almost as good as its neighbor to the left.

Maybe not song note worthy but a great route nevertheless!

2nd go. Very good!

A pleasant climb!

Good route, varied in style. Hard top!

2nd go. Cool tufa! Too bad there is better holds on the side.

Intense crux!

Felt scary to onsight!

Followed on the easy part to the ledge and lead the hand crack.

Saved this flash for many years. Thanks, Andreas, for the gear beta!

Back again, 3 years later, to take care of some unfinished business. 2nd try after warm-up. Totally bomber conditions today that are seldom witnessed in Ulvåsen.

Totally awesome route that sees way too little traffic. Has the best and coolest looking drop-knee I've ever done on a route! Soft for the grade when you have the beta figured out.

Sharp as hell!

As always, I'm getting on this very fatigued after a whole day of climbing, but today, it actually went down.

Powerful moves in steep terrain! Tried it the first time two years ago, but at that time, it felt too hard. Super happy to come back stronger and send.

Better than it looks. Good slab practice!

Done the original before.

Great route with some bomber hand jams. But be aware of loose rock. Pulled a side-pull at the crux. Also, the start is quite poorly bolted, especially the 4th clip.

This route is simply amazing! Great route for practicing kneebars!

Very good with some unexpected cruxes.

Bring a draw to the anchor. I almost fell clipping the anchor as the gate was quite stuck on the fixed biner, but luckily, the mega jug got my back.

2nd go. It's just as good as Maximal but harder. Deserves more ascents!

Such a joyful name! And a very good route as well!

Pulled through the crux pumped out of my mind. Warm day with temperature still around 24° at 9 in the evening. Superb route on amazing rock.

Very technical crux. Hard.

2nd go. Very good route with some perfect fingerlocks.

For sure one of the best lines I've ever climbed! This route was my main goal for this trip, and I was very happy to send it on the third go.

Pumpy and fun!

Juggy overhang above the roaring river!

2nd go. Beautiful location!

Scenic!

Quite sharp!

Cool move!

Powerful. The one route that stays dry on the crag.

Super chill!

Broke a foothold, 2nd go. Good route, but it is quite sharp and fragile.

Nah.

Super cool! Suits my style perfectly. Thanks, Olle, for providing the perfect beta.

Straight up w/o the crack as I believe must be the intention? Pulled down a 100 kg piece of rock from the ledge.

2nd go. I've been putting this one off for a while now as it looked rather intimidating and hard. It turned out to be way easier than I thought but still fun.

Dirty.

What a route! Built up quite a pump going into the corner crack with my hastily improvised beta.

2nd go. Sustained all the way with a powerful and technical finishing crux. Very good!

Wish I'd brought my crack gloves, but sadly, I left them at home.

Very nice! Powerful for the grade.

Unexpectedly good. Even preferred it over Lirón Careto L1. Too bad they installed indoor bolts, so it will probably rust away pretty soon.

Great route although I agree that the new route to the right is way too close. Also this route does not seem to have an anchor. I finished the route on the ledge before the 7c starts and down climbed to another anchor.

Felt hard. It's short but has a couple of nice moves.

Definitely not seen it's best days as the guide suggests. It's still a great climb, although a bit polished.

Long, fun, and delightful!

Big fun! Bolts are quite spaced out, so make sure to not fall in the wrong places, especially above the ledge.

A lot harder than I expected or maybe I was too strict on keeping to the right side of the arête.

Wow, totally awesome route! Don't miss this one!

Best route on the sector although pretty damn soft if you ask me!

The cave was much bigger and deeper than it looked from the ground, cool!

Pumpy!

Flash pump!

Tufa heaven!

Varied in style.

In the big whole you can play some tunes on the fragile string like formations.

Cool holds! First route in Leonidio.

Tricky sequence. Took me a while to find a beta that worked for me. Top is easy, so don't let the sparse bolting scare you away.

Super good!

Pumpy start. Amazing climbing on the upper half.

First go but I have more or less done all the moves on the other routes previously.

2nd go. Good route. Hard?

Very good!

Esthetic looking crack that starts with fingerlocks and widens to hand and fist size. R.I.P. Alvar.

2nd go. Amazing jugfest with a pumpy top sequence. Reminded me a bit of Flatanger. This crag is worth visiting just for this route alone. Fell just below the anchor on the onsight, too pumped. Continued climbing up to the abandoned second anchor just for fun. Counted 18 QDs.

Judged on the state of the fixed anchor rope and unbrushed holds the route was obviously abandoned. Made the first ascent, 2nd go after some brushing and sequencing. Tricky boulder sequence. Don't use the old rope around the tree anchor.

Seconded it previously. Good route!

Nice climb except for the start. Seconded it a couple of years ago. Super well protected from where the crack starts.

Belayed the FA on this a couple of years ago. Nice to come back and lead it myself. Use long slings to avoid rope drag.

Maybe the 4:th ascent after the turn of the millennium. Cruxy and intense to the very end. Worth a visit.

Surprise send on the first go after only a single beta session. Conditions were far from great, with water continuously pouring down over the crux hold. Paper towels saved the day, but it was a race against the clock.

A journey has come to an end! It's one of the hardest routes I've done in the grade with close to 8 sessions over 2 years falling on the very last move on the crimp traverse over and over again. Today, I felt super solid and managed to send it on the first go!

Epic dyno that feels impossibly far away at first glance. Did the dyno from the lower crack straight to the upper crack staying a bit left of the second last bolt. Probably a bit soft, but as always, dynos are hard to grade.

Climbed it using the crack as it is the only logical line, and no elimination is mentioned in the guide. If so, then the trad route is no more. Maybe FA can comment.

Very cruxy. Definitely not onsight friendly but climbs well when you find the way.

Very good. Top roped it before long time ago.

Superb! Well protected with cams.

35 meters of easy climbing. Placed two friends, but please bring a couple more.

2nd go. Short and intense extension. Long move from tiny insecure feet. Not a personal favorite, but quite ok nonetheless.

2nd go. Intense upper section.

Just for the tick!

2nd go. Take a small pinch hold with the left hand above the last bolt, place a high left foot and then grab the ledge.

Good warm-up.

Good route but extremely dirty.

Found it, finally! Quite bad protection but super good for the grade.

Protected with a No̱ 1 and 2 Camalot on the ledge.

Not the best.

Perfect beginner route!

Best version imo. Climbed Munin before.

Dirtiest route I've climbed in a while, but quite ok nevertheless. Some cleaning and it could even get a star.

Took a couple of tries to latch the first dyno. Did the original start from the ledge. Long and desperate moves.

Finally! About 5 sessions of fine tuning the beta, especially the finger lock! Super cool and beautiful line.

3rd go. Hard. Proper warm-up is essential. Very nice sequence!

Intense crux section into a dyno from some insecure feet. Climbed right after the second clip to reach the jug.

Climbed it as one pitch with an 80m rope and 17 QDs. Good route.

A surprisingly good climb on conglomerate and pockets. A very pleasant experience.

2nd go. Took the undercling at the crux with the wrong hand and could not reverse. Obviously sandbagged. It's way too powerful for such a low grade. Putting up draws is a bit nerve-racking as you need to step up on some sensitive foot holds far above a ledge to reach.

Wow! Really cool and long route! Be aware of some huge run-outs. It's probably a must do on this crag.

Sparsely bolted so don't fall in the wrong places. Otherwise, it's quite ok route, although sharp.

Hard to onsight but climbs well. Sparsely bolted.

Bolting is quite bad on this route.

Good route, but the holds are not exactly skin friendly. Unnecessary run-outs for such a low grade. Terrible experience for shorter people.

2nd go. Took some sequencing to figure out how to climb the last meter to reach the anchor. Exhausting experience for the whole body.

2nd go. Did not read the start. Good opportunity to practice your slab techniques.

A bit harder than it looks. Watch out for loose rocks.

2nd go. Super good route. Sustained all the way to the top with some interesting cruxes and awkward resting positions.

Quite nice. Not as over bolted as described imo.

Hard for the grade and probably way harder for shorter people. Climbed the "extension" as well.

Haha, very funny!

Superb route. Quite the desperate onsight.

Missed some obvious crimps in the lower part and used a horribly bad beta. Totally pumped but managed to shake my way up to the anchor. Super route!

Personal best! Super happy with this send! Coming back with stronger shoulders than ever after being injured during the winter season. All the shoulder training sure paid off! My longest project to date with around 8 sessions. Apparently, projecting works. Maybe I should try more often.

Lower crux felt very hard for the grade but otherwise a good route. The second bolt is crazy spaced out, so be careful.

Hard. Cool rock formations for being granite.

2nd go. Very close sticking the crux on the onsight go. Good route!

Just wow!

Long and technical!

9.5 °C warm, humid holds, and rain pouring down all day. It was a challenge to keep warm between the tries.

Cool holds!

Hard. Locating the hidden foot step under the roof was the tricky part. Easiest route in the actual cave?

Took the opportunity to try this route when Seb Bouin had a rest day and not working on Project Big. Turned into a fight for my life on the crux but I was lucky to land a perfect fingerlock and was able to pull through. Long and pumpy.

Worst bolting I've seen for the grade. Groundfall potential from the third bolt, which is also the hardest part. Careful with your foot placements. Neighboring 4c looks more properly bolted.

First flash of the grade. Thanks for the perfect beta spray. Continued climbing all the way into the crux of the 8a before falling and hang dogged the rest. Project for my next Flatanger trip for sure.

Hard to onsight. Hard?

2nd go. Very technical with a sensitive top crux on small crimps. Offers some great photo opportunities.

Technical no-pump climbing.

Absolutely amazing! Jugs for 30 meters with some unsecure feet. Pumpy.

Technically a flash as I watched a bit of climbing, but I wasn't given any helpful beta so I had to figure out every move onsight. Super nice route och good crimps.

First route in Flatanger, what a great welcome!

2nd attempt after a foot slip in the beginning. Bouldery.

Goes on and on and on. Jugs, jugs, jugs!

Awkward start but otherwise a great route!

Maybe a bit too technical for such a low grade suggested by the guide.

2nd go. Incredible! Halfway up the route, there is a bench shaped ledge where you can turn around and enjoy the view of the fjord as long as you want before continuing up the pumpy upper section.

Simply amazing!

2nd go. Harder than it looks but well worth climbing.

2nd go. Nice holds and very well protected.

2nd go. Good route that definitely deserves more ascents. Well protected and does not require any crack climbing skills. Bring your gear and come to Gunnilse!

Good route. A couple harder sections with some good rests in between.

2nd go. 26 degrees and raining did not make for perfect conditions.

2nd go. Fun little route. Soft.

2nd go. Awesome route!

2nd go. Superb! The kneebar in the chimney is so good!

Adventure climbing!

Cool!

I've been struggling on this one over many sessions with a very hard beta and also received a permanent tattoo on my leg from a bad rope burn. But today, I tried a new wonder beta and made easy work of this route.

Checked the holds on the rappel, so maybe not a pure flash.

Good route except for some sharp holds. Bring an ATC for the lower of in order to save your rope.

Very good!

2nd go. Great line! But the no-hands are a total mystery to me.

Perfect hand jams!

Hard start then it gets easier.

Short and intense layback sequence.

Very dirty.

Quite good. Only equipped with a single bolt anchor.

No luck on Koskräck today.

2nd go. Pumpy.

2nd go. Got lost on the top on my onsight try.

2nd go. Great moves.

Good route!

Solo. Quite good given the grade.

2nd go. Had to bail on my onsight because of all the dirt at the anchor.

If you fancy dirt.

2nd go. Good moves but short.

Superb route not to me missed! My last climb on this trip to Tenerife.

Better than it looks.

Technical!

2nd go. Unexpectedly hard.

Cool pockets! Recommended.

Felt harder.

Beautiful!

2nd go. Quite good but the last move for clipping the anchor is very strenuous. Knee pad for sure helps for clipping the anchor.