Konsta Kukkonen

TR on 18.4.2020. At least two lead tries over the years. Now felt steadier than sormenleikkaaja. One offset nut stuck so hard I had to bang it out for 10 minutes.

2nded. Felt familiar the whole way. Pretty sure I have seconded the route also two years ago. I like this one more than Palimpsest

One lead try two years back, where I heard snake hissing inside my head on the ledge and bypassed the crux too much from the right. Second lead try few days ago ended to a small fall at the said crux as I got too greedy and lifted my foot too high up for a rock over. Now cleanly as seconder after N's fine lead.

Good climbing the whole way on variable features. Would benefit from fixed gear at the ledge. Now retrieving the anchor is a bit of a faff and the alternative to climb the 6c to the top doesn't look that appealing either.

... men pacifistiska vegetarianer gör det! 2nd go after checking gear. Fine rope boulder. Personally not harder than Slåttermaskinen, but bouldering is my strong suit, so 6b+ might be correct

Very happy to get this one on the onsight as diagonal cracks (and traverses) are usually cryptonite for me. I'm not a master of foot technique, so had to squeeze quite hard.

Seconded. Nice opportunity to train jamming and placing gear for beginners.

Climbing in the heat fourth day in a row is starting to feel like work. Half forced red point. There was nothing wrong with the route.

Seconded

What a route! I dreamed about it already on trip two years back, now finally got around leading it. Looks thinly protected at the start, but it's all there.

Seconded. Very cool route with tough crux.

Done in one pitch. Nice adventure climbing! Last time in Bohus I was too scared to climb anything this tall. Now it was alright. Less jamming than I thought.

Super nice!

Seconded

Excellent jamming! Not as wide as I expected. I got inspired to climb this one by the music of Pete & Bas. 1000th tick!

Liked this one slightly more than Våroffer due to longer and more even crux part

With some Elvis legs at the crux

Great one! Pumpy ride and not so obvious protection after the flake.

En fin rör! And not as protectionless as the name suggests.

Quite an adventure on crumbly rock with at places dubious placements. Tackar för pitoner, the rusty ones and the new ones. Climbing vice not harder than 5+ like someone else said, but trust issues made it feel a bit more challenging.

Eilen on-sightilla epätyydyttävästi käyttäen tahattomasti jumiutunutta #8:a jalkkiksena samalla, kun krimppasin kynsillä märästä sammalesta. Omatunto ei sallinut tikata. Tänään seinät kuivina kiipeily tuntui kirjainta helpommalta ja jopa kaksi tähteä hienommalta. Puhdistava kokemus. Kannatti mennä uudestaan!

Felt easier than Lanskeri or even Rikun reitti in the current form.

Rope boulder

Not the easy warm up I wanted. Moist slopers in the topout almost sent me flying.

Choss. Star to keep the route clean

Start from the ladder. Not much climbing after that

Nerve-racking at places, physical in others.

:D

2nd. I'm going to leave grading for those who actually had to find the placements. Didn't feel nearly confident enough for a lead.

Climbed it "the wrong way" 15.7.2020. Now with the correct finish. Still good climbing but not using a big crack that is at one point 20 cm away feels really stupid. The wrong way: 2 stars. The correct way no stars.

Should have been a rest day. Didn't feel like it.

Cool looking, although short line with good jamming and stemming action. The roof and the topout induce just the right amound of anxiety. Would be solid 1-2 star line in Kustavi. With modern gear pro 1 or max 2 and not that mental, if you clean the topout first. Difficulty 5+ at max. Significantly easier than Sähköpaimen for example.

Aesthetic line from the camp fire place during the early morning. Not so much from the closer distance, but not all that bad either.

Many tries before. Today on the first try. There was blood everywhere when I reached the anchor, so also the last try of the day for finger cracks.

Jammaajan kahvakoulu

Bouldery start. Good but discontinuous climbing until the big ledge. Scrambled all the way to the top.

Shape of the day...

Looks better than it climbs

Seconded

Half an hour for 10 m of climbing. And in the end the move was embarrassingly easy when I found last bit of courage to commit. Thanks to T for the patience as a belayer.

Shape of the day. Star to keep the top out more clean.

Derby. Almost certain I had top roped this in 2020. Also recalled it felt awkward then and it felt awkward still today. Might be the most continuous easy trad route in Viitapohja. Star for that

During derby. First there were tecnical difficulties due to shower rinsing the whole wall while N was leading. Rapped down the line to take the gear off, but ended up still leading it. First go, but RP seems more appropriate due to the rappel. Ok, but way too short due to the ledges.

Delicious! 😋 Great way to start a climbing day -- even in the afternoon. Remotely similar to Kaari at Olhava, but shorter.

Purely climbing wise probably the best multipitch I've done, but the closeness of the civilization and its by-products take away some of the feeling of adventure. The crux pitches felt more like sport climbs at times due to stuck gear. Led p2, 6, 7, 9 and 11. We weren't the most efficient team. 14 hours of climbing, but also 2h of wait before getting on the route. That also took something off of the glamour for this kind of ultra-classic route.

Led both pitches (N6 variation for the second). Super nice!

Very nice little route. Giving up on the good ledge took some commitment. Consoling tick after getting slapped twice by Jammerfest

En forsøk med T and N. Led the last pitch. The first pitch with backpack felt as hard as that one. Great fun all the way!

Med Teemu och Nanna. Awesome and variable climbing. First pitch a scary, yet well protected slab. Second pitch a pumpy inner corner (glad I didn't have to lead it) and last pitch awesome cruising with bomber jams. I don't get the topo grade of the last pitch. Felt more like N5+.

Real fun climbing due to quality of the rock and the cracks. Cloudy day (not too hot) and only two people on the wall before us. We did longer third pitch and linked rest of 4 and 5 (60 m rope just barely enough). P1-2 probably could have been linked as well. Should have done this few years ago to get the best possible experience. Still, excellent cruising! 😎

Bitter sweet red point. Onsight missed only by two moves due to nerves. Simple but excellent climbing. Riippuvat puutarhat variaatio vibes at the end.

Better than it looked. Adventurous climbing. Pretty clean too.

Not as good as it looks. Weird positions and lots of holds. One star to keep it more clean! :D

Even if it's not the tallest line, it sure is a proud one. Couple of tries before. Three tries today. Felt completely defeated after the first two. Thank you to all who encouraged me to give it one more go. After such an ordeal it's weird that it feels it wasn't too bad, but I'm glad it's done.

Everything felt hard today. Couldn't get anything done with Varjo, then z-clipped and took a fall right after on this one.

Seen someone on it. Not really an off-width technique wise

Somehow lesser line than it looked. The choss at top was ok for me.

Can't be harder than Peräsmies.

Might have seen someone on it during derby. Who knows

Not as elegant climbing as I had envisioned, but still a nice route. Thanks for the recleaning!

Lakritsi was slightly more enjoyable, but this was great as well. Fine fight on the second go!

Not bad but too short. Thought I went for something much easier. Apparently some overconfidence helped.

Great climbing all the way!

Seconded previously. Ok climbing!

My onsight try of this adventurous line ended high up due to slip from a jam. Then I took another fall one move below the OS high point just to be sure where the crux was. On the send go both biceps cramped so hard I had to force arms straight while shaking. Proper fight, but not a tedious one. Star for each try. Highly recommended!

Ok, but not very continuous.

Ok, but short. Thanks to M for route maintenance.

Too short

Nice crawling :D

Nice hand jam crack. Could be taller. 1,5 stars.

Seconded

I start to feel like I have been pretty generous with the stars lately. Now the scale is not enough anymore so I put my 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 s in here. I have followed Teemu's efforts as belayer before, but thought it too scary and hard for me to lead. Now figured the beta on the first round (on which I was astonished how pleasant jamming the start was) and went to the top on the second try (on which I had most difficult time with the OG start from the cave). So glad I decided to give it another go! ☺

I think I've found my instrument! Thanks to M and K for guiding me to this gem, and N for belay.

Nice boulder crux. Rest easier.

Seconded

Seconded

Seconded

One star for the route, second for the fact that I managed to hold on long enough. What is it with these dihedrals that I hate them, and yet, I don't seem to get a away not doing them?!

Seconded. Very nice 4, where you have to know and use some crack technique.

I loved it! If there wasn't that good of a ledge to reflect on your life choices, it would be ⭐ ⭐ ⭐

Schrödinger's stars. Had an epic with this maybe two years ago. First led the route to the ledge, bailed and couldn't manage it even on TR. There was a northern bat in the crack right before the top, we were looking at each other and thought that neither wanted to be there at all. I thought I don't ever want to go there again, but ended up craving for the sweetness. This time I was able to stomach it all, but it was enough of dihedrals for one day...

For years this has been on my Kustavi to do list, but always felt too hard either mentally or physically. Finally everything clicked on the second try of the day!

Feels great to tick off this project! Some chains are easier to clip than others. These ones were almost as strenuous as the ones on “Kultaa”. Two sessions on TR three years ago, this year three sessions in lead. Took small fall from the middle and from the top on separate sessions. In the end, the crux was a mental one for me. Almost chickened out after first lead try this session, as I just couldn’t make myself do the last few moves even feeling relatively fresh. I’m grateful to all the natural sources of erosion that the route is not any taller, as I couldn’t have done a single move more. Climbing wise very cool route with mostly face climbing with the occasional crack, making up a compact and yet versatile sequence of movements. Easy to protect as well.

Not much harder than Varpaat or Nojaa to climb, but not as easy to protect.

Cool looking crack. Powerful few moves.

Inner corner on the right of Mission Gin Lemon.

Nice short warm up. Wish I was capable of doing more than that :D

Varied climbing with good jams on a totally awesome looking wall. I was told the line follows the finger cracks in the inner corner, so tried to stay there, but had to use also the rightmost wider crack. Would be three star route without bolts and more independent path.

Jammaa taikka kuole felt hard few years ago, this one went down on the first try. I was surprised how fun it was! :)

Pro tip: if it feels soft, grip harder! Elvis legs winged the ascent :D

Had tried the easy starting section in TR on trad course, rest onsight. Top via left is a bit stiffer than 4+.

Previously on TR

Previously on top rope. Now finally in lead! Tried also in this spring, but fell on the last move.

Awesome climbing all the way! Strong recommendation. Haven't done the original but it feels like short finger crack into an airy topout is more fun than climbing through a birds nest. :) The dihedral at the beginning was the crux for me.

Looks awesome from the ground, but the climbing left me a bit disappointed. Wider than I thought. Saw someone leading it last year, but the gear was one size off for most of the route from what I recalled.

Seconded last year. Now on lead. Still awesome climbing with just enough holds between cracks!

TR previously, now on lead. Cruxy stuff. Felt much harder than Kantti or Josse, or maybe I was just tired and used bad betas. Great and at places commiting climbing.

Very special experience. Despite some initial difficulties we managed to top this beautiful mountain! Approach ~2h, total climbing time ~15h, mostly without route finding errors. ~1,5h from top to halls fortopp and ~2,5h from there to car. Climbing especially on Vestveggen part is great, although the second part also has its moments. I give the stars for the whole experience, not only climbing :)

Led second pitch. Great first pitch and quite fun second.

Led 1 and 3. Second pitch was just the kind of fun adventure climbing I like! If it was all the way like that would be three stars for sure :)

Foot slipped. Second go!

Felt harder than 3 for sure. One of the last routes of derby. Might be because of that

Might have seconded or lead this one in the past as it seemed very familiar.

Seconded

Seconded. Everything here feels familiar, but maybe that's the case everywhere after staying awake for 34 hours.

Seconded. Basically at least as scary as on lead without any protection while climbing on the second shelf.

Probably seen someone on it. Seemed familiar

Seconded

Seconded

Seconded

Seconded.

Seconded

At 2 AM during derby. Found perfect beta by accident. What a nice route!

Seconded previously

Seconded

Seconded previously

Slippery jams. Well protected all the way.

Seconded. Crumbly topout

Right to left

Softish in comparison to other routes here

Short but beautiful and not too easy

Interesting slabby inner corner

The wet and messy beginning was the crux. The crack after that was for once cruising. Two stars for the crack and - 1 for the start section

Very beautiful climb! Nearly came off the wall at the crux. Bouts of wind didn't make the delicate moves any easier.

Broken beginning, but the inside corner was very enjoyable at least as a second.

Seconded. Nice and more logical line than the original.

Wet starting scramble took away my enthusiasm. The actual climbing was ok. Had to fight for it.

Really cool route. I regret that a light rain started while climbing, so had to rush a bit. Felt easier than 6c, but you never know while seconding.

Last routes of a great climbing day. Good times :)

Great jamming. Pretty much limit for me due to overgripping. :D Very nice route

If this was 4 would be ** for sure, but for 6a not continuous enough. Still a very enjoyable climb.

Seconded. Tricky start!

Ride the arete

Feels good!

Seconded

Retro flash. The holds were better than I recalled, but the top section still didn't feel too easy.

Seconded

Dear diary, today I learned that squeeze chimnies are not for me. *** If you like being stuck between rock and a hard place.

Thought this one had some lesson to teach me. Had to even clean it. Still felt hard on the send go, so not sure if I learned anything...

Nice off-width climbing, although I cheated my way around it in places

Quite ok adventure climbing, even if the start from left instead of crack is somewhat illogical. Well protected with proper gear

Can't think of better off-widths for the grade

Climbed like shit for sure, but this is sand bag if there ever was one. Edit 29.6.2024. Still felt much harder than 5, but a bit more flowy. Such nice moves I have to upgrade my star rating.

Fun easy climbing! I rarely wish climbs were longer, but this one could go on forever

Failed the jump at first go and then almost failed the upper part on the second. Wouldn't have managed withour encouragement from Teemu. Found some Kanttarellis below the route as a bonus :)

Seconded

Not as chossy as the name states. Last year took a minor fall. Not too easy this time either.

Partially bolted. Previously on TR

TR previously

TR year before. This was the first ever crack climb for me. Not bad way to start with

Seconded. What a struggle!

Found some painful and bomber jams

Not very continuous or special climbing-wise, but very beautiful feature

I wish my head game was there for proper lead, but not today

Deceiving looks. Hardest two meters of trad climbing I have done. Two stars from the climb and one extra for the pump.

Lead pitch 3. Lots of loose rock. Down climb to rappel point was the crux. Not worthwhile.

Great first pitch! Not an onsight due to sunny day and busy wall.

Via Gandalf in the middle section. In two pitches.

Seconded. The second pitch is beautiful climbing!

Seconded

Seconded. Nice delicate climbing!

Quite scary, if you don't trust the feet. Maybe just bad luck or poor decisions, but crux felt harder than on Vekara. Had seen several people on it, so not an onsight.

Took three attempts to get my head game going 😬

With a #6 and still slightly run-out

Climbed wrong crack after the roof in beginning. Directly up untill small horizontal cracks. Didn't know this was the variation, so followed the delicate, but easy traverse to the right crack on the right and finished as in topo. Maybe the same grade? Pro 2

I liked it! The shelves probably spoil it for many others.

Felt much harder in comparison to säkkipilli, which is also hand jams. Maybe gets easier with optimal beta. Definitely will re-visit this route to find out!

Seconded

TR last autumn, finally on lead! Such a nice line with quite good protection.

Seconded

Seconded

How did this feel so hard last year?

One of a kind! Not as mental as it looks

Too short :(

Enjoyable climb with good placements!

Had to do the rehearsals, but passed this class on the second try

Seconded

Epic battle! Had to renew the wrist tape of a glove before the transition from right to left crack during the ascent. :D

First multi-pitch experience. Really nice!

Seconded

Slab right at the top was scary in lead

Not as mossy as its name states, but the top and the shelf in the middle were dirty. Nice route with quite a bit of excitement :)

TR twice before send

First trad lead