Markus Aspiala

.

I ended up slightly left to the anchor. Couldnt figure out the beta for straight to the anchor.

Ekalla ylös, mutta joskus vuosia sitten käynyt kokeilemassa.

second go

Second go

bad rock, bad bolting, no stars.

Really polished

No pads

Good one

Bad quality rock. No stars.

Really sharp. At least the holds I found.

Missed a crucial hold in onsight attempt.

Can be climped as a single pitch with 70m rope if the belayer stands on a ledge couple of meters off the ground and the climber skips the first two bolts. Remember the knot in the end of the rope...

Climped on the shelf without a rope

very enjoyable jamming

Rock was soaked in places and climped this with headlamp after sunset. a random bat was (maybe defending his territory?) scouting me relatively close every now and then. Felt like solid 7a...scary!

Vaikeasti varmistettava

Awesome route and easy to protect!

Quite difficult to protect. Yellow DMM offset plays important role to protect the crux.

Second go

Nice, but soft for the grade.

Second go.

Best multipitch this far in el Chorro. Even the unbearably hot weather didnt ruin the experience. I led all the pitches except the first and last. The first pitch is just as hard as the following 5c.

Emmi's first sport multipitch. I led all the pitches. I would recommend avoiding the last pitch. In some reason the route seems to end on a small ledge formed of big and unstabile rocks.

70 m rope is long enough for this route.

no stars

Fingery crux

first pitch only. Top rope, because we initially planned to climb both pitches but had no time.

Excellent jamming!

Big flakes felt quite loose

Good climbing!

Great!

Finally! Sharp crimps on slippery overhanging wall. The first bolt was loose.

Slightly overhanging hand jams, knee bar, offwidth to chimney. Excellent continuous climbing with good protection. One of the best routes I have climbed in Finland. I would grade this to 6c, but I'm lacking proper crack climbing skills to grade routes like this.

Best route in the spot. It seems like this route could be protected with trad gear as well. I dont know why the bolts are there?

First try after cornflake

Good but really scary

Only 1. pitch

Led all except pitch no. 5

Rope solo

Rope solo

#5 and #6 camalots useful to protect the crux.