Matti Kaivaja

cool movement and took a lot of effort. Unsure if i will have it in me to lead. lets see...

Suprisingly very nice consistent climbing. Could even be better than toast? Used two toast holds for feet but otherwise quite independent. I'm sure more variants exist.

pretty nice line. one of Kustavi 's best steep hand jamming cracks. felt easy this year on TR but with all the gear weight on the lead made me feel the steepness a LOT more. Not much of a steep climber though so probably a bit soft for the grade.

felt pretty good this year. should probably lead it but slipped one time unexpectedly after the crux and it would have suuuucked on lead. bring a good belayer!

trickier than it looks. I guess tree is in for the grade. 2nd in approach shoes.

was soaking wet. nicer to tr in this case. climbed in approach shoes.

pro is a bit bad and climbing insecure. happy to be on TR.

wow what a great line! perhaps soft as others say but the movement and consistency are superb. felt slightly harder than Kronos at least

what an exceptional route. definitely took a bit of work for me.

what a great aid route. looked too ridiculous from the ground so i top roped/flashes it whatever. led it second time.

onsight 2014, lead rope solo 2021

onsight 2014, lead rope solo 2021

onsight 2014. lead rope solo 2021

strange how this doesn't have more stars... I guess people judge it before climbing it. sweet route. cool eagle claw too

hung once a long time ago. finally got around to it again. felt great. a classic Kustavi wide crack.

cool heading practice

lead aid rope solo. a fun and safe test of aid climbing work. bring lots of 0.75s for aid. bring 0.5s and a diverse rack for lead.....

very nice moves in a comfy finger crack. perhaps the best finger crack of the grade in kustavi

free solo

trs first try. not sure if really worth going back for but nice delicate climbing regardless.

free solo

Absolutely spectacular position and a joy to share the first ascent with Max Miner. Ending traverse was easy but very exciting on sky hooks. Highly recommended! Many years staring up at the great roof wondering why it hasn't been done before. Go get it!

Lead rope solo free, sent previously

lead all crux pitches though the easier ones felt similarly hard at times. Easy pitches were nicely thought provoking and the climbing spectacularly long. not quite as nice rock friction as I would have liked but still a good route. linked some stuff, went direct up instead of traverse left on the lower wall at some point and climbed some wayyyy sketchier stuff than I should have before finding some new dirty cracks to get back on the route. longer day than expected- started in the evening and had the route to ourselves which was great. note you are able to fill your water bottles around where the tree line ends!

super contrived

ok

harder than it looks. You gotta run fast and grunt loudly.

classic

nice soft warm up for the rest

a great line. respectable lead. bring a few crash pads!

maybe a bit reachy but fun

really nice upper head wall

tr solo flash or whatever. really nice climbing and easy to get off route forcing you to down climb

tried it many years before and it felt pretty tricky for 6a. easy breezy this time around

some nice moves.

weird ending

TR solo flash on someone else's line so I didn't inspect the climb on the way down. Very nice moves, very pumpy and tricky. Definitely would have fell if I had to stop for gear. 6c to the first crux and then pumpy insecure 7a jams n locks. one of the best lines at the crag

2nd go tr solo. very tricky boulder start, but the crack above is amazing. Definitely gotta go back when I can find a partner!

very nice. good pro. do LA bamba and shake your hips!

very nice route! one of the best at the crag. pro is all there

TR solo onsight. really nice moves. not super great pro but maybe

top rope solo onsight. pro looked sparse from the ground, but it's all there. bring crash pad

second time on tr. felt very smooth and flowing. placing gear doesn't look super easy though

messed it up at first. some tricky pro but all there.

fun quick tr. great movement but falling at the first crux might bring you to the earth. tricky pro

very cool route. initial boulder problem into some nice upper moves. the face at the top gives you some fun air potential over easy moves

best line here. very nice crack transfer and a safe lead. aesthetic.

very enjoyable. a safe lead for a new leader

fun

exciting topout. very nice

better than it looks. fun

fun

insecure and thin hands

flexy flake

enjoyable slightly overhanging hands. short but good

very nice movement and protection. one of the better climbs at the cliff. enjoyable.

TR flash? should have lead it. surprisingly easier than it looks. not sustained, rests. OK gear... tipped out 6 deep and then wiggle back out for the crux.

warm up fun

climbed this and also a variation into the left wide finish. the variation adds a few more very nice hand jam moves. great

very enjoyable. good comfortable jam rests between all of the moves. no idea how this has half a star... easily one of the better routes at the crag. engaging and fun. will climb it again and every time I go back.

burly for the grade.

great ârete. ss low match

connected with the no name 5 for a better line. messed up ending on first try. 2nd go

2nd go. great route, sustained and feels much longer than it is. very nice movement

fun crack. climbed it twice :D

just do it. easier than it looks. CLEANED it up like crazy. No idea when it was done before, but probably was. fun and heady.

fun but sharp

first move crux but quite enjoyable

fun easy highball

5th go. ending kept pumping me off!

one and done. "fun" top out

nice holds and fun moves for the grade

soft. Maybe even 6a

fun traverse

took some work. was able to get some beta to not swing at all.

Beautiful hands. Not harder than 5+. The 6b grade made me laugh quite hard. could even be 4+ lol

pumpy and fun. loose block hold makes it interesting

climbed the crack eliminating the obvious left hand jug to make it harder. nice fingerlocks

who will do the cave start?

very nice problem. 20 cent left of it is better but much harder and more sustained

good moves and soft

the real voodoo looks great and will take some work. nice finishing problem though

messed up the top out first try

tricky read but fun

fun. Maybe 5th go.

really fun stemming at the bottom, one insecure move to a jug and it's over

delicate. small nuts. top out will test you hahah

fun. right till the ennnnnnddddddd.

oh if only the crack lasted longer. good thing thing because i didn't bring a new pair of underwear to the crag. comfiest hands and very enjoyable.

nice. followed it :D

enjoyable moves to the lip and up the overlap to the lu

Super nice :)

nice crack, followed

A nice finish to the day. thoughtful corner leads to an upper slab splitter fingers headwall and stays interesting the whole way up. classic

a nice problem. good foot beta and correct body position makes it go down a lot easier :)

Very nice problem. hopefully on the regular circuit. top was a little tricky the first try.

might as well do it when you're here

2nd go i think. fun.

fun problem. good crimp

classic

classic

didn't quite have it in me on lead.

one number 3 half way. just my size.

solo os