Michael Johnston

with Sam. wearing a backpack with shoes, water, puffy, and 5 lbs of someone else's crap. epic climb, as good as it gets. first Linville 5.10. so psyched!

in the fog / wet with Sam

offwidth!

kinda scary. hard to believe this is one of the well bolted routes.

so cool

two pitches, did as one, sensible

technical, insecure, tricky for the grade

Wet. Terrifying.

so awesome!!

total sandbag haha

Turned into such a battle

fun. wish it were steeper and more sustained.

Thanks for getting me into this one Aimee! So much fun pulling on pockets. Pretty technical crux too! Third go.

2nd go. Awesome fun. With Aimee. Did another lap for fun!

With Aimee. Did laps for fun/fitness after!

Sooooo good!! With Aimee

Second go. With Michael chickene. Went to the chains on the flash attempt and bitched out

Woohoo!! First 5.12 in five years! Second go

neither pat nor i could do it without falling... need to go back

One of the best climbs of the grade... ever. Awesome technical first pitch, slightly scary second pitch, nice runout slab to finish. As good as it gets

interesting iron cross move. hard if you're short

led as one pitch... so much fun!

on-sighted pitch 1 on lead. pat led pitch 2. fell at the crux at the very end. must go back

great 5.9 corner

classic Beckey route!

pitches 3-4... incredible hands. got pretty beat up. fell on pitch 3 a bunch of times, had trouble with the 5.10d face pitch. must return

simul climbed most of it with dan. went back with natalie and led all of the crux pitches. a bit more simul climbing as well but got stuck behind slower traffic

with dan

lead as one pitch, dan belaying. next time only placed two pieces of gear, then just started soloing.

simul climbed in two pitches with dan

simul climbed in one pitch with dan

I linked pitches 1 and 2, then dan linked 3 & 4, etc.

With Dan Head. Super memorable. Every pitch is unique. Dan lead most of the thirteen pitches. Need to go back with someone less experienced and see how I fare

Hard for the grade

Warm up. First route at the new

Nice. Heady balance move above the bolt

Night climbing fun

Interesting crux followed by runout

Awesome underclings!!

With Brian. Sweet technical overhanging arête. Third go.

With Brian. Glorious jug hauling and pump

with vero

With vero

unremarkable but pleasant

Way more involved than anticipated. Amazing finger crack

Epic adventure with Robert up the Odyssey wall

Burly trad

Woohoo!! So happy!! Amazing technical face climbing

did 11 laps

one ~V2 boulder problem in the middle of an otherwise 5.6/grade 15 route

happy american

Nice last move toss to the lip

Best experience of my life

the crag warm up

pretty cool. well worth doing. eats gear

just to the left of the classic Gecko Groove, this is arguably even better

supposed to be a warm down after our battle with Rohans Arete, but turned out to be pretty full value both in terms of required crack climbing ability and gear placement. awesome. best pure crack line on the wall

3 pitches. slab with slopers to chimney out of the cave to juggy fun stuff

Seaward boulder

The pinch problem. Seems harder now that a hold broke

seaward boulder

Good times with Jono

Steep jug hauling and knee bars. 2nd go after falling at the chains.

Awesome awesome climbing. Two days. Super technical. No idea why it is marked as scary... the fall from the top of the crux is quite nice.

actually a lot of fun. tricky

Highball. Pumpy. Awesome in every way.

did the dyno and did it statically with the heel hook

Fucking awesome. Hardest boulder send to date. Compression rules.

hardest V4 ever. but who cares -- what an awesome problem!! wait, I take that back.... More and More about Less and Less at Baring Head is the hardest V4 in the world

statically

left side of split apple face

highball V2, first top out on this wall

Fifth day. Beautiful amazing problem.

3rd go

2nd go

2nd go, third day on with Melissa. Thought the starting moves were really hard, then learned to just walk my feet up the right and it went down pretty easily.

2nd go

super duper cool dynamic body position start. loved figuring this one out!! thanks for the belay Melissa!!! :) not really sure about the grade since the block on the right came off. could easily be 24/7a. harder than Pretenders. harder than Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble.

thought this was Bongoleo initially... "Easiest 21 ever." Yeah, turns out it's 15.

pretty cool moves through the roof!

almost fell. super psyched!!

nice!! super techy and thin problem at the start, then cruising!

2nd go

really fun core boulder problem

thanks Alex!

long route, delicate balance moves on sloping pockets, classic!

short

2nd go

4th go. Awesome toe hook beta

2nd go

sick. second go. soft?

second go

Tenth time on the route. Amazing climb. Will repeat and repeat.

with Thiago and Tony and baboons

skipped last bolt because I didn't see it, quite intense...

just missed the on-sight

with Tony

missed onsight because of stupidity. with Tony

with Tony, warmup

with Tony

with Tony

with Tony, first day at Boven

with Tony, first day at Boven

with Tony, first day at Boven

with JP and Malcolm

phil belaying... second day on it, not sure what attempt, but i love this climb... the transition from powerful to delicate is amazing

second go, alex belaying

totally wet on-sight, with tom

with olivier! warm up onsight!

such an amazing route. 4 attempts.

heel hook toe hook compression start, one move

finally haha

epic. wildest 5.9 ever. alex lead first, i lead second.

pretty cool balance/core transition off the start

one big move between jugs

cool steep undercling problem with bad feet

amazing boulder

first V6. lapped it. super psyched.

so much work. very satisfying send. desperate. last day, no skin, no strength, somehow did it...

kind of chossy problem with pockets

such slippery feet! looks easy, climbs hard!

rain send!! oli next on the send train!

right of Biscuit move to L shaped topout. weird. sketch. carina liked it?

day 1 warm up boulder

day 1 warm up boulder

amazing piece of rock

arete, compression, heel hooks, awesome. tricky top out

day 1 warm up

beautiful overhanging arete. hard.

not sure if i started in the right place, but one of the chalked up jugs flexed and i didn't use it

day 1 warm up

best part is pissing off drivers

day 1 warm up boulder

first gunks PG, pretty chill! small gear but it works.

wet on-sight, so much fun!

finally!! cruised it with kat belaying

awesome 10m crack climb at petite folie with toby and carina

classic slab climb with one tricky move

crimps next to the arete. crux is the balancey start from sit

massive juggy roof. cool. soft

easy slab with my reach

first V5!! awesome heel hook. venga animal

2nd go

with carina. blocky ugly 5.8 can be fun!

fun bolted chimney... ran up it right before the storm

2nd go

slab problem with one hard move

easier than the 5.8+ next to it lol

2nd go. bouldering on a rope. V2. super fun and powerful crux. sent it with jug-to-jug tall person beta. it may be a one move wonder, but it's a lot of fun. good intro to the grade

2nd go. awesome route. feet cut naturally as you launch for jugs. so cool. did another lap just because it was so fun.

top was wet. took a while to find dry beta. blind balance move around the corner at the start and great exposure after

classic problem. not an easy V3. learned a lot technically. precision is everything

almost pointless, but okay...

soft

first V3 flash

climbing with random people

beautiful highball

very cool problem. big move to a jug and then shoulders and everything into the hole! not V5 for me...

very interesting technical problem in a dihedral

Uncontrived line

looks nice, but rock is kind of low quality. part of the prow fell off while I was climbing it.

psyched to have found a static beta

awesome compression problem

pretty straightforward and chill

awkward moves and head games. sandbag

small gear, slab moves

classic gunks 5.5, first Gunks lead

lead laps

awesome roof crack

beautiful

hardly an arete

wonder how many 5.8 climbers get up this

maybe it really only has one hard move, but it's fun climbing!

jug right before the crux broke off when my buddy was trying to on-sight. almost got hit belaying!

first 5.11!!! super cool route... powerful moves... rough slopers, love it

Pat led all 9 pitches. Pitches 2-3 are the money.

I know it's not very popular or well-liked, but I love this climb. It's hard for the grade, sustained, and not the most beautiful from the ground. But it's great climbing the entire way, and I think one of the best routes at DU. If it were rated 11a/b, it would probably be a lot more well-liked; people don't like getting spanked on 5.10.

Flashed it and did laps. Cool moves, but still chossy. Every time I do this route something small falls off.

Pat led, I seconded. Pitches 1 & 2 are amazing. Last pitch is also pretty cool.. strenuous liebacking because of bad feet in a corner. Nice. Backed off of my lead on the 5.9R pitch. Will take small nuts (and two great big ones!) next time

nice length and exposure

good, but not as good as Masterpiece

super nice climb. great no-hands rest half way up

such cool features and holds

awesome steep 10a

first climb at Rumney

pretty easy with the right beta

5.8 climb with a V2 boulder problem at the roof. fun

really cool climbing. crux half way up, jugs thru the roof

one hard move indeed...

stiff warm-up for me! felt a bit scared at the crux

Beautiful rock, cool holds, so psyched

really cool transitions between cracks

could be 10a?

one of the coolest routes here. wish it was longer.

5.8 with a roof!

second go

first climb at Kamouraska!

hard to read. everything looks like a hold. five (?) tries

not really 10a...

classic steep jug haul

nice route. had to down climb and re-shoot roof sequence, but didn't blow my flash. easy climbing after the roof.

I led the first pitch (5.9), Pat took the second and third. Hard 5.10. Offwidth section on the second pitch is tough, some good face holds tho

climbed with Pat, led second pitch. went back, led first pitch. still need to lead last pitch.

missed the on-sight because I dropped a critical cam and lowered off to get it. should have down climbed!

first 5.9 trad lead

gets thinner and thinner as you go to the top