Tommi Johansson

Felt still hard and like wrestling, my anti style 😅 but it’s still sandbagged even if you can handjam well. Climbed in darkness with headlamp. Still barely enough reds and yellows.

Finally clean send from this one without any preplaced stuff (didn’t even grab the tree in the end!). Didn’t climb well but didn’t fall, that’s important, and got crazy pumped 🤣 what a route!!

Very nice and adventurous climbing! Take a lot of slings (I didn’t!)

Ahh I almost sent this! Trad can be so freaking hard sometimes. Top rope was kind of easy. Start is difficult to protect in a good way (not the get gear where you want hands). Way harder than it looks, because eg. the feet are so bad. But really nice!

Quite hard start and then cruising and adventurous. For abseil the Enhörningens anchor is not very far.

Nice! Bolted anchor at the end. Long, almost 30m.

There was a mouse living in the crack halfway :)

Feels pretty hard (by all standards). Probably would try to lead it next time. Crux at the top and might be a bit height dependent..

Great climbing and nice fingerjams

Good climbing and nice jams, bit dirty at the top, but one of the best routes in the crag

Was a weird start but nice face climbing.

Great climbing, I think the placements were fairly good. Maybe my hardest trad ascent but very sporty style. One top rope check and second lead go, was pretty stressed and pumped on the send press. Many beta options.

The first half is easy, the second half is enjoyable face climbing. Placements are a bit tricky at parts. Great exposure and view. Classic.

Trad climbing doesn’t get much better than this? Surprising onsight, suited me well. Wall has much small features besides just the clean crag.

One of my proudest trad sends. Was close last time (a year ago) and now 2nd go, still my beta could be improved. Clean crack with nice wide fingerjamming

Date not exact. Really good stuff.

Date not exact. Exciting top when it was quite wet 🫢

The first rock in the crag was moving, be careful! But what a line, though might never have the courage and/or gear to lead this 😅 offwidths make me feel like a beginner 😅

Fun climbing and well protected with small cams. 6/6+. Not a walk in the park

Felt quite easy for a trad 7.

The area unlocked! Felt really easy compared to Jamspricka nr1 which are supposed to be the same grade..

Grades don’t do justice to these routes 🤣 very dirty and has a tree on the way too. If it would be cleaned it might feel like 6-. Give it one star for the experience and climbing itself was fun. Anchor at the top!

Followed. Dirty but otherwise nice.

Good climbing but rappelling down was a weird experience. Maybe to top out much more right?

On the first go pumped out and fell in the crux, second cam came out and ended up 30cm from the ground.. worst trad fall for me. Then I collected myself and went again, but the crux still felt scary. Climbing wise not hard but that section very hard to protect. Very good route otherwise..

The top part is very scary with the thin protections and ledge.. did not want to fall there

So nice, hoped it would continue for longer. I was thinking the placements are thin, but they were actually pretty good all the way.

Seemed like the most logical line on this wall, but still quite serious middle part with half-good placements. The crux is well protected though 😅 Happy that Simon convinced me to fight through the fear!

Very nice line and there’s a tree at the top, for top rope, and also a sling and maillon to rappel down

Olipas jännimpiä kiipeämiäni reittejä. Vaikea greidata, mutta tuntu vaikealta, hassut varmistukset, sammalta ym. Lopussa menin todennäköisesti väärin, mutta ei varmasti helpottanut greidiä.. kantsii vissiin mennä hieman oikean kautta

Quite nice despite it was short and I barely jammed 😅

Kiva layback/jammi/krimppihänkkireitti! Olis aika jännä kyl boulderoida tai liidaa. ”Toprope-onsight”

Nice and not scary, found okay’ish 4th and 5th placements too. But couldn’t be just 6a+ if it was a sport route

The 5+ variant

Very nice and well protected. Felt easy for the grade (but maybe I got more comfortable with trad)

Happened to free solo this 😅

Followed, not easy to protect partly if you go straight up the thin crag. Very varying climbing, stemming, technical, face climbing, jamming etc!

Followed. Difficult to grade or comment when following 😅

Very nice and varied route.

Followed. Felt easy

So cool line despite (and also because of) traversing. I was quite sure I’d fall after getting too pumped from figuring out the beta and placements, but somehow held it together. Good holds and placements.

Very, very nice for the grade and the most of the climbing is chill

Exciting, but cool! Was more tricky mentally than I expected.

Barely deserves any stars in my opinion, couple of meters cool climbing only

All of this wall is so good. Exciting traverse part

Another very good line

Super good. Well protected. Hard first 7 meters, even then it’s not walk in the park. My first trad 7- ?

Difficult jams, beginning crux and end crux. But so good.

Very fun easy jamming your way up.

Kiva ja hyvin varmistettava

Alku vähän vaikea ja loppu oli kyllä tosi murenevaa, se jännitti myös varmistuksien puolesta. Saisi tähtiä ilman lopun kivenlaatua, puulle menin kuitenkin.

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Sateessa kiivetty mikä toi vähän jännitystä. Mutta onhan tää hieno linja ja ankkurikin topissa!

Superb. Good placements and fun climbing on the quite vertical wall

The mantle felt hard! Partly as it was dirty. I was having pretty much fear there, as last placement was low, off the line and not too good 😅

Not so easily secured start and felt harder than 5. Rest is easy

Very beautiful setting, beautiful pitches. The 6a+, 6b, 6b+ were superb. The 6c roof crux pitch was hard and polished. Windy at parts. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10.

Exciting. Bättre säkringsmöjligheter än du tror, men inte hellt bra 😅

Absolutely enjoyable and well-secured climb

Very happy of the route and the send

Followed. Very dirty, otherwise it could be Nice

Huh, exciting, but cool

I had a lot of fun on this one! Jamming test piece for a beginner trad climber.

Not easy to place gear in places, especially in the end

Quite nice. Bit hard start and then easier. Maybe my hardest trad ascent so far.

I think i climb this on lead instead of the 7b, the bolts are very close.. though it felt like a 6c+

Stemming corner and trad, would have felt scary leading this

Would be hard to place gear

I dont know how to hand jam 😅 2nd go

Date not exact. First 6a trad

3 vuotta sitten top ropella :D

Helppo. Liidi ens kerralla

Ois voinut liidaa mutta yläköysi oli nopeampi

Oli kiva, tämän voisi joskus liidata

Ensimmäinen tradi-harjoittelu, kaverin kamoilla

The name suits well for this quite physical route :)