Tommi Johansson

Harder than the neighbour / more difficult to read, but equally good.

Beautiful Technical face climbing. Why is there an extension as well, I didn’t see any more bolts? But route was approx 25 m high?

What a route! Many different styles, cruxes are delicate. Perfect 2nd go.

Worked as a warm up due to the beginning 6b, but the crux was a bit desperate. Also soft?

Funny name. Enjoyable route! Soft maybe.

Good for being so short (it says 14m here but surely less). Soft.

Maybe the highlight of this sector! And maybe my hardest onsight! So coool 😎

Interesting line. Hard long move from pocket!

Hard! Slopers and proper crimps. Nice moves.

Really nice! Some quite tricky crimps

Nice but short’ish. Clipping the anchor was tricky

Megaline! Starts easy and keeps getting harder. Lenght is wrong though, it’s more like 38 m.

Superb!

Really cool adventure!

Accidentally did this for warmup instead the line on the left, but was ok :)

Tough cracks!

Wow, how good!!! What a finding this crag! Overhang was not so hard, the vertical part was quite tricky.

I earlier thought this is too hard for 7a+, but with a clever beta it’s probably correct. Still pumpy, crimpy and with long moves. Cool!

Intense and cool! Probably soft? But you have to like crimps 😉 hard to onsight because putting up last draw is difficult.

Quite fun and partially overhanging :)

Cool moves! Thanks for bolting this

The climb is really nice until the last bolt! Then it’s very desperate moves on slopers/knobs to the anchor 😅 still worth much more traffic!

So happy of this send! Feels like I have margin for harder stuff. 3 stars even if one crimp is very sharp, so cool moves. Surprisingly safe despite only 4 bolts for 23 meters (and I put couple of cams in the beginning).

Felt still hard and like wrestling, my anti style 😅 but it’s still sandbagged even if you can handjam well. Climbed in darkness with headlamp. Still barely enough reds and yellows.

Finally clean send from this one without any preplaced stuff (didn’t even grab the tree in the end!). Didn’t climb well but didn’t fall, that’s important, and got crazy pumped 🤣 what a route!!

Felt really hard and delicate in places 😅

The crux caused me some beta trouble, but it was also about commitment. Nice autumn evening with a headlamp. Too short!

Very nice and adventurous climbing! Take a lot of slings (I didn’t!)

Ahh I almost sent this! Trad can be so freaking hard sometimes. Top rope was kind of easy. Start is difficult to protect in a good way (not the get gear where you want hands). Way harder than it looks, because eg. the feet are so bad. But really nice!

Dayflash, I had tried it before. Very height dependent! I could do the crux moves but a shorter person (<170 cm) definitely couldn’t.

Really cool and unusual climb! Recommended despite a bit dirty start 👌

Woah what a climb and day. Technically session-send in great autumn conditions (I had tried it once long time ago but have no memory). The crux is distinct in my opinion and I’m still not quite sure how the fingers stayed in that hold. Without using the arete.

Quite hard start and then cruising and adventurous. For abseil the Enhörningens anchor is not very far.

Melkein kehtaisin tästä 6c:nkin antaa, olin tosi pumpissa. Paljon otteita toki! Tänne kalliolle päästävä uudestaan!

Nice crux move/moves. Still unsure of the optimal beta but I got really pumped today. 2nd go

Nice session with a clean toprope go. Next time trying to send lead. Feels hard for the grade. Update two weeks later: led the route well but fell on the last move to the jug… real nemesis to me 🤯 extended the third quickdraw.

Really cool and unusual moves despite a bit short route!! Hard to onsight.

Felt like a very hard 7a for me. But very cool. Desperate send on second go. At least one pretty hard move at a lower part going over the lip, or did I do it wrong?

Enjoyed this a lot. Send in the afternoon sun ☀️ The bottom crux caused me trouble, but figured out a funky, probably unusual beta :) The bottom part is a bit height dependent. First time doing a 7c in one session in Nordics! (Ok, even if it’s soft)

Straight up the bolted line. I wanted to climb the 7b but couldnt do the ending.

Nice! Bolted anchor at the end. Long, almost 30m.

Hard for grade but really nice :) crimps in the beginning (dont escape to the crag), easy in the middle, cool differerent ending.

Long and nice climb - but felt hard for the grade and rock quality is not perfect. Really hard start or I did something wrong.

Huh that was onsight-limit. Small crimps so nice :)

Really nice climbing :) gear is not fully necessary but it’s nice to have one cam to avoid runout in the end.

Wow! Bouldery start, then some long moves.

Huh I got so pumped - good name! Tricky putting up/clipping one bolt in the middle, bailed on that one on the OS and took couple of falls before committing.

Balancy and tricky. What a nice climb! Good warmup as it gets gradually harder.

Amazing line. Starts to be little polished. Crux with heelhook and a lower crimp, which felt surprisingly stable (though strenous) after little practise. This route was in my mind from the last trip to Stockholm, when I didn’t have a chance to properly try it.

Climbed it in full darkness with a headlamp. How cool :)

I have tried following the bolts strictly before and that felt very hard. But I agree with Johannes, that going up and slightly left and then right at the crux, as people seem to do it, feels easier than 7a+. Start is actually the hardest then.

Followed the bolts quite closely, felt like grade. Cool one and especially the end, actually!

There was a mouse living in the crack halfway :)

Nice balancy climbing with a bouldery start. A bit mental and cool view :) second, desperate go. Hard to grade

Feels pretty hard (by all standards). Probably would try to lead it next time. Crux at the top and might be a bit height dependent..

Great climbing and nice fingerjams

Best about this place is the place, but this route was quite fine

Very hard, If you go straight up, but worth it! I didn’t understand why to go to left in the end to the last bolt, because the straight version provides better climbing, even if it’s much harder. 7a/7+

Difficult to say how it’s ‘supposed’ to be climbed. Straight up it felt indeed 8a at least. Went to the right after 2nd bolt, that way it was possible though soft for 7c. Nice climbing, though the hard part is over after 4th bolt.

Nice when the beta is found, a bit weird holds. Feels hard for the grade.

Good climbing and nice jams, bit dirty at the top, but one of the best routes in the crag

Was a weird start but nice face climbing.

Great climbing, I think the placements were fairly good. Maybe my hardest trad ascent but very sporty style. One top rope check and second lead go, was pretty stressed and pumped on the send press. Many beta options.

The first half is easy, the second half is enjoyable face climbing. Placements are a bit tricky at parts. Great exposure and view. Classic.

Trad climbing doesn’t get much better than this? Surprising onsight, suited me well. Wall has much small features besides just the clean crag.

Tried it once before, and the slopers felt hard. Now went quite easy on warmup-go despite the heat. Really nice and long line!

Different than usual climbing, felt quite tough - also very beta-dependent. Cool moves. Nice view in the evening!

Start is cruxy, but nice climb

Really nice climbing despite some polish. I recommend preclipping the first draw.

Easy to pump out or fail some of the long moves. Finally figured out some ‘short man beta’ despite I’m 176 cm. 4th go.

Surprisingly good route with tricky sequences. Thanks Kasper for hinting about it. Hard to onsight.

One of the best routes I have ever done? Can’t believe no one else ticked this before. Pretty continuous climbing with various holds on slight overhang. Great rock quality and amazing place and view. Took 5 goes on two sessions, felt like a solid 7c.

One of the best for grade, fantastic.

Limit-onsight. Physical and mental. Not my favourites but still very good

The moves at the crux are a bit unusual (didn’t read it right on onsight). Lots of climbing

Committing upper part. Date not exact

Really good delicate crimping stuff. Easy for the grade, or I used a hold which I shouldn’t use.

One of my proudest trad sends. Was close last time (a year ago) and now 2nd go, still my beta could be improved. Clean crack with nice wide fingerjamming

Not fully sure If did it before

Finally. Was close to sending many times. Good luck fighting the pump with this long boulder 😅 pretty hard for 7b I think.

Very nice one too, though (too) many rests. Soft for the grade

Wow, what a flow and a day.

Good route and found some funky beta for the crux (which is still pretty delicate). 2nd go after trying different solutions.

I’m quite sure I had ticked this. 27crags bugging again?

Date not exact. Really good stuff.

Date not exact. Exciting top when it was quite wet 🫢

The first rock in the crag was moving, be careful! But what a line, though might never have the courage and/or gear to lead this 😅 offwidths make me feel like a beginner 😅

Miksiköhän pulttilinja kulkee noin paljon oikealla ja hyllyn kohdalla voisi olla pultti? Vähän erikoinen.

Very technical, hard clipping, difficult to read, tricky holds. Second time in Louhos, first time being in 2016 on my very first outdoor climbing session (when top roping 5+ was very hard)😅 very happy of this onsight, was on my limit.

Bouldering on rope. Cool moves! Pretty hard

Maybe I went too straight up as it felt more like 6c+. Quite desperate but nice

Not sure If 2 or 3 stars but good for sure! Around the crux I couldn’t find the feet so just pulled up anyway 😅 went surprisingly quickly, on 2nd go, soft or not? More crimpy than it looks from the ground.

Really good!! I don’t have any bad word about this. A must-do if you like technical climbing on crimps. Why is it not more popular? Only one cam needed. 6th go in quite warm conditions.

Climbs much better than it looks. 2nd go. Have to try the neighbouring route on the left.

Fun climbing and well protected with small cams. 6/6+. Not a walk in the park

So cool route but it’s a hard 7a I think. And hard to onsight because of the bolting, when draws are on the wall clipping is much more possible..

Felt quite easy for a trad 7.

The area unlocked! Felt really easy compared to Jamspricka nr1 which are supposed to be the same grade..

Grades don’t do justice to these routes 🤣 very dirty and has a tree on the way too. If it would be cleaned it might feel like 6-. Give it one star for the experience and climbing itself was fun. Anchor at the top!

Followed. Dirty but otherwise nice.

Good climbing but rappelling down was a weird experience. Maybe to top out much more right?

On the first go pumped out and fell in the crux, second cam came out and ended up 30cm from the ground.. worst trad fall for me. Then I collected myself and went again, but the crux still felt scary. Climbing wise not hard but that section very hard to protect. Very good route otherwise..

The top part is very scary with the thin protections and ledge.. did not want to fall there

So nice, hoped it would continue for longer. I was thinking the placements are thin, but they were actually pretty good all the way.

Amazing route which should be more popular, but it’s pretty mental. I extend the 3rd bolt of the traverse to feel more safe. Took me maybe 15 goes to finally get a clean send. And to improve my endurance. “Chilla” is a good name for it because it’s important to climb relaxed and very easy not to 😅

Good climbing. Somewhat sketchy lower part with natural gear. And somewhat sketchy bolted upper part with potentially breaking flakes 😅 next time lead.

90% trad route. Pity they had to put 2 bolts in the middle. Pretty scared first lead go but second one was solid. Top roped a few days earlier.

Seemed like the most logical line on this wall, but still quite serious middle part with half-good placements. The crux is well protected though 😅 Happy that Simon convinced me to fight through the fear!

Very nice line and there’s a tree at the top, for top rope, and also a sling and maillon to rappel down

First bolt is quite high but still okay without a clip stick. Nice line and continues up with Panda

Very good and fun line, should be more climbed. Two extensions/slings at bolts is almost necessary for it to be safe. First bolt pre clipped too. Also couple of flakes might break at some point. Other than that, very good 😅 5th go total and my first of the grade. Probably soft 😄Perfectly remembered and executed beta in good conditions.

Continous

Amazing climb. Hard for 7b, three cruxes and pumpy in the end. My friend was prepared for a long fall..

3rd go after first trying the crux with bad beta :)

Essentially onsight, but Felix went first. Climbs very well. Tired fingers.

Really good. 7c+ in the guidebook but 7c feels fair. 2,5 goes :)

Very soft, but very good. Crimpy and technical.

Adventurous, tufas and aretes and endurance. Good warm up!

The classic route of the sector, happy to get it done. Hard for the grade. Everything magically dropped in the place at that 2nd go of the day, 4 goes total.

How possibly this doesn’t get stars?? Amazing climbing and you could climb it even in night due to illumination. The beginning polish is a bit annoying though. 2nd go

Fun and different route, 40m long. The last 15 m is very easy.

Very good :) led from the 6th bolt putting up draws not knowing what’s coming

This route has everything, delicate slabs, corners, boulder problems, crimps, traverses, you name it. 5/3 stars, just amazing

Demanding , I was on the very edge of not slipping or pumping out. One star out for polish, otherwise super good.

Amazing. Technical

More powerful than the one in the left, but very good too. 2nd go

Loved this route. Crimps crimps and other occasional holds. 4th go

Was very close to onsight, but the end was pumpy. Clip-stick the first bolt!!

Very crimpy and fingery, good climbing. 7a in guidebook but should be 7a+ at least. 2nd go desperately topping off in rain..

Very good!

Good, if you like slabs

Easy. At least if you compare to the 7a’s in other secrors, like Pesadilla. But good.

Good stuff

Bit unusual and mental line but the head game was good today! Great climb!

Good stuff, as the name could suggest “beautiful crimping” (ah it actually means good climb, but whatever..)

2nd. Nice and tricky, very fingery.

Super nice and good flow, crimps, pockets, technical! Little overhang too.

Very good vertical climb

Quite pumpy, nice

Continuous, vertical route with the first overhang. Perfectly my style. 2nd go but first was a year ago

Grades in France are tough. This was on my onsight limit

Very, very good. Full focus all the way.

Very warm January day

Fingery, technical, tricky. Nice route. 3rd go

Felt hard, had to be tough on the crux. But good line

Complex and mental and, unfortunately, somewhat polished. Gives a fine experience, though. Pretty hard!

Crux on small pockets and slopey footholds. Some nice tufas. Would get 3 stars if clipping the second last bolt/quickdraw wouldn’t be so freaking tricky.

Quite straightforward. All of these are so good it’s difficult to give less than two stars 😅 7a+ in the guidebook but I think 7a is appropriate.

Quality red limestone. Crux sequence is very fun, though the route feels a bit short in the end.

Super delicate crux and I was bit scared to clip the last draws when pumped. 2nd

Overhanging with long moves. Aesthetic and classic line

Delicate slab and bouldery end. Nice! Ps. Heelhook. 2nd go

Tough moves with crimps and pockets up there. 2nd

Fun, some traversing. Soft, if you figure where to reach to.

Very nice, though a bit short

Very fun sequence

7a+ in the guidebook but maybe 7a is more correct

Really good

Adventurous

Very fun though starts to be polished

Top rope first 3 draws and then lead - the beginning dyno/boulder is hard and could not do that on lead. Super classic on slightly overhanging/vertical wall!

Could be 7b+. Quite evenly difficult climbing before the (difficult to read) bouldery crux. Polish was not too bad. Fun!

Hard for grade, probably due to polish

Pretty hard (powerful and airy) crux. 2nd go

Very good. Couple of harder technical sections separated by some kind of rest. Starts to be a little bit polished but not too bad. 2nd go

This is also very good, just enough headgame and power left for the ending moves.

Beautiful

Very cool route with cool moves indeed, and somehow fought through it the first go. The option to traverse to right at the mid-part crux probably makes the route ‘soft’ however

Hard. Superb.

Soft

Amazing route. Powerful crux and continues after it, got pumped. Great sector too.

Tried this a year ago and couldn’t do then. Now second go, still the beginning felt hard/delicate. Couple of nice sequences at the beginning and end though

Huh, tough movements on overhang and also before, but fun route with a nice view

Beautiful on pockets. Felt stiff

Super beautiful route. So technical. Cleverly bolted. 2nd go

Super hard for a 6c. But good one, aesthetic

Amazing climb, loved every second of it. Missed onsight by a few centimetres

This onsight I was happy about in the current physical condition. Tricky vertical climbing

Climbing something fun while recovering from flu - cool flake!

Climbing something fun while recovering from flu

Fun

Very good

Great 6b slab

Wow wow

Sharp on places, but cool moves

We did the multi pitch with variations 5c, 6a+/6b, 6a, 5b. I led most pitches

Very nice, delicate top, first half is easy, maybe a bit easy for the grade.

One of the best of the grade

I liked it! Crimpy and endurance, crux for me was in the beginning. 3rd go, did the first one in rain and darkness 😂

Nice!

2nd go after misreading the crux - endurance is needed, difficult to read on parts

In pitch-black with a headlamp 😅

Vertical and technical

Cool corner climbing

2nd, didn’t see the good hold. A good vertical climb

Easy for 7b, maybe also for 7a+, but very bouldery. Nice moves!

Olipas jännimpiä kiipeämiäni reittejä. Vaikea greidata, mutta tuntu vaikealta, hassut varmistukset, sammalta ym. Lopussa menin todennäköisesti väärin, mutta ei varmasti helpottanut greidiä.. kantsii vissiin mennä hieman oikean kautta

A very hard 6c imo, but nice if you like delicate climbing with small holds :)

Quite nice despite it was short and I barely jammed 😅

Even this deserves a star I think. Surprisingly hard

Kiva layback/jammi/krimppihänkkireitti! Olis aika jännä kyl boulderoida tai liidaa. ”Toprope-onsight”

Mitähän tähän sanoisi, etenkin loppupätkä todella hieno ja ankkurille meno kuumottava 😅 ehkä pultti tai kaksi olisi lisää voinut olla

Muutama vuosi sitten en edes tajunnut miten tämä tulisi kiivetä, nyt toimi lämppärinä raskaan työviikon jälkeen. Jotain kehitystä siis kai tapahtunut 😅 onpa hienoja krimppejä ja listoja

Nice and not scary, found okay’ish 4th and 5th placements too. But couldn’t be just 6a+ if it was a sport route

Did the 7+ variation. Nice and even!

The 5+ variant

Very nice and well protected. Felt easy for the grade (but maybe I got more comfortable with trad)

Happened to free solo this 😅

Followed, not easy to protect partly if you go straight up the thin crag. Very varying climbing, stemming, technical, face climbing, jamming etc!

Followed. Difficult to grade or comment when following 😅

Very nice and varied route.

Followed. Felt easy

So cool line despite (and also because of) traversing. I was quite sure I’d fall after getting too pumped from figuring out the beta and placements, but somehow held it together. Good holds and placements.

Very, very nice for the grade and the most of the climbing is chill

Exciting, but cool! Was more tricky mentally than I expected.

Good climb though short. Anchor = tree at the top. 4th go as I was stubborn with my beta..

Interesting climbing on face. 2nd go. Dry when everything else was wet

Nice route, the placements are okay, 2 bolts in the middle. 2nd go after figuring out the crimp sequence

Quite nice, crux is with the bolt, otherwise trad. 2nd

Good line, worth climbing. Didn’t clip any bolts

Good and obvious route. The crag part is relatively easy. 2nd go. Agreeing that this needs more ascents! Even anchor at the top.

Long moves, fun climbing

Cool climb! Didn’t feel soft for me

Barely deserves any stars in my opinion, couple of meters cool climbing only

All of this wall is so good. Exciting traverse part

Now this was a good go :) knew the ending from Kronenbourg

One of my favourite climbs, so fun crimping and the end crag. Did it a year ago with preplaced cams, now putting the gear on go.

Another very good line

Super good. Well protected. Hard first 7 meters, even then it’s not walk in the park. My first trad 7- ?

Difficult jams, beginning crux and end crux. But so good.

Very fun easy jamming your way up.

Good route, good sector! This felt hard for grade, but maybe i was tired

Nice route despite a bit short, crimps and tufas and interesting moves

I did the hard parts of both this and the route on the left, so felt like a 6c/6c+ experience, but fun climbing using two crags and weird holds

I thought I was climbing 6b, no wonder it felt difficult.

Ending surprised me

2nd go, somewhat slippery in the summer, I might have used a hold of other route in the middle but still feels like (a soft?) 7a with that beta

So much fun!! the polish didn’t feel like a problem

Very good route, though somewhat polished. Endurance. 3rd go

Good line too, pretty exposed and difficult at the top for the grade!

Great line with many solutions. Desperate send on the 4th go, still probably didn’t have the best beta, just commitment

Lyhyehkö mutta sisältää hienoja mooveja. Falkbergetin eka seiska mulle :) 3rd go, alun kruksi herkkä

Kiva ja hyvin varmistettava

The beginning was tricky, overall a nice climb. I think I’ve tried it long time before, thus redpoint

Hyvä flow! Hauska

Alku vähän vaikea ja loppu oli kyllä tosi murenevaa, se jännitti myös varmistuksien puolesta. Saisi tähtiä ilman lopun kivenlaatua, puulle menin kuitenkin.

Vaikeahko luettava

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Hyvä reitti. Varmaan eka kerta sporttireitillä, että pitää laskeutua puusta, no why not 😅

Hyvä reitti ja hyvin varmistettava

Hyvä ja erilainen reitti! Pulttaus tuntui itselle ihan hyvältä?

Eka 7a saitti Suomessa, eli väittäisin softiksi, mutta ehkä oli vain hyvä flow :) tosi hieno

Hyvä reitti. Hyvin varmistettava. Partially bolted = yksi pultti 😅

Sateessa kiivetty mikä toi vähän jännitystä. Mutta onhan tää hieno linja ja ankkurikin topissa!

Todella hieno reitti, krimppejä ja teknistä, vaihtelevaa kiipeilyä. Tokalla.

Hyvä reitti. Yllättäen tokalla vaikka jo kovasti väsyttikin. Viimeisten muuvien betan löytyminen oli vaikeaa, mutta löytyy sieltä järkevä ratkaisu!

Superb. Good placements and fun climbing on the quite vertical wall

The mantle felt hard! Partly as it was dirty. I was having pretty much fear there, as last placement was low, off the line and not too good 😅

Herkkä keskipätkä ja mentaalinen - vaikea greidilleen. Tokalla.

Hieno. Muutama vuosi sitten ajattelin, että tämä olisi liian vaikea

Very good as well and nice little roof crux

Very good and even climbing, works as a warm up!

Happy to do this ‘the most popular 7a in Sweden’ first go. Bit polished footholds but was okay. Fun climbing for sure.

Very important to trust the feet, even if it feels slippery, it’s okay! 2nd go with top rope, should have led it…

Pretty fun stuff! Felt a bit soft. Mostly good holds.

2nd go. Super cool and long. Crux was not easy (being not too short helped).

Beautiful climbing. Final 4th go of the day, just when the wall got in the sun. 4-5 sessions 😅

Fun and delicate crux sequence but had to go a bit left in the end (with left hand). Feels like the grade is correct this way, could be a + too.

Very various and nice! Gives good pump! The mini dyno is fun.

The dyno felt impossible before figuring out a working beta. Just try different solutions! :) after that the route became super fun

Nice route, should be more popular! Little unclear in the middle and 4th clip pretty delicate.

Difficult to read, but when the beta is found, nice alternating climb

Bit unclear line, sharp and hard crimping, but worth doing if you like crimps

Difficult and sequency, but so much fun after figuring it out!! Bouldering on rope

Nice one. Hard for 6b (the ending)

Little dirty in places (beginning), but not so bad than some other routes

One of the best in the crag! Sustained, but with rest in the middle.

Bra uppvärmningsled :) very cold fingers

Pretty nice despite hard crimping in the beginning. 2nd go

Nice slab

Not so easily secured start and felt harder than 5. Rest is easy

Very beautiful setting, beautiful pitches. The 6a+, 6b, 6b+ were superb. The 6c roof crux pitch was hard and polished. Windy at parts. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10.

Mentally challenging, neither easy for the grade. 3 stars in the guidebook

Beer is good

Good route reading this time :)

Very good route, should get more ascents! First 7c. Third go after failing the anchor clip on 2nd, good flow today!

Very good with varying styles and rock, adventurous. So weird no ticks here

Life is sweet!

Good flow!!

Fun overhanging, continuous climbing, good holds. why this doesn’t get stars? 2nd go

All of these three routes starting with the same slab are Great!

Pretty hard with the polished holds (the end), but still fun

Spectacular indeed, lots of different styles, not too polished. The last slab was so delicate. 3rd go.

Woooow. Superb.

Nice route despite little slippery beginning

2nd go. Cool route with a strong crux

Nice variety. Tricky.

One of the best routes of the grade I’ve climbed. Could be a 6b

2nd. Very cool traversing route with a distinct crux

2nd. Mostly endurancy

8 pitches, led them all. Nice line though pretty polished. Was very windy day and much people on the route.

Good endurance route with good and bad pockets. 2nd go.

Got the pump of my life. Cool start as well. 3rd go

I liked it. Decent rest in the middle, otherwise sustained, hard start

Hard for the grade. Nice, though little awkward, crag/dihedral

Pretty good, the overhang is a clear crux, but I think 6c+ in the guidebook

Very good and varied, if a bit sharp in the end

Cool route, if a bit soft for the grade. Technical vertical part leads to good rest and nice overhang finish.

Hard for 6b, slippery start, nice finish though