Magnus ver Magnusson
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Magnus ver Magnusson 1 / 3
  • Sit on the rock at the base of the arete (or stand in the pit). Grab a sharp, crimp sidepull on the left side of the arete, and a sidepull edge on the right. Pull on in bunchy position and slap to twin edges higher up on the arete. Finish up "Atlas Stones".
  • A very powerful, extra low start to "Atlas Stones". Start sitting in the pit with a very low left hand divot (a key foot on Fingal's and Conan's), and whatever you can grab with your right (the best hold seems to be a fragile 2/3-finger tooth). A heel or toe on the start jug of Conan's is useful.
  • Sit-start using the hanging jug. Make a couple of strong moves up to a leftwards traverse on crimps. Gun for the arete, work your way out of the pit, and finish on "Hussafel Stone".
  • Sit-start in the cave, climb up to crimps, then the rounded ledge, then cheat death as you scale the tall, chossy face.
  • The full-value traverse! Sit-start at the right end of the cave, matched on the obvious sloping mini-ledge. Move up and left to a crimper traverse, through a crux of getting to the arete and out of the pit, then finish all the way left on "Pillars".
Magnus ver Magnusson
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Magnus ver Magnusson 2 / 3
  • Start on "Chain Pull", traverse left to the arete and finish on "Atlas Stones".
  • Grab some edges, climb the little dihedral, make sure you grab solid holds when topping out. Sit-start at a grade or so harder.
  • Stand start matched at the arete. Move up and left, to find yourself bear-hugging the flake on the left and arete on the right. Top-out straight up. Very cool compression line - but it could send you spiraling into a very bad fall. You could also start on "Chain Pull" and move into the same sequence, at the same grade.
  • Start as per "Hussafel Stone", but climb straight up the arete. If you mess up, you may get messed up. There are a couple of good low starts on the right side of the arete, as well as a very scrunchy sit-start matched on a low crimp-rail left of the arete (V4ish).
  • Start on "Atlas Stones", use body tension to span left to the flake, match it, and finish up "Chain Pull".
Magnus ver Magnusson
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Magnus ver Magnusson 3 / 3
  • Start LH on triangle, RH on squarish block/sloper. Climb sharp crimps to top.
  • Start RH on crimp, LH on anything you can grab. Climb straight up. Problem stays shady as it faces north.