All sectors
All routes on Big Choss
Sector Six
Sectors
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Sector Six
1 / 5
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Stand start at/near big groove feature. You can follow the groove rightwards, or exit the groove early to finish directly up the face, at more-or-less the same difficulty.
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If you are so inclined (or bored), start as per "Sailing Slab Left". Traverse all the way right to finish on "Walk the Plank". **"Short Voyage" (V1) exits early, up "Sailing Slab Center". **"Easy Voyage" (V0) heads up on "Sailing Slab Right".
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Stand start on either side of the tree growing out of the slab. Climb the tall slab directly above the tree. Dicey! To keep the line honest, avoid drifting towards the grooves on your left or right.
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Sit-start underneath a kind of hole feature (right hand is on a low sidepull edge under the overhang, left hand is on a low sidepull jug just outside the overhang). Slap a crux first move to sharp jug on the lip of the overhang, then use jugs and good flakes to rock over the lip and follow the crack up the slab to the top of the boulder. Really good movement with a nice high-step to finish off the tall slab. You could reach up to the sharp, left-hand jug from the sit-start, skipping the first move and the problem would check-in at about V1, or you could force an awkward match on the right-hand start hold at about V4.
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Start as for "Smooth Sailing", hit the lip and surf right to finish on "Hey Sailor".
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Start as per "Walk the Plank". Climb straight up the groove. There is an easy, but committing, high-step at the top.
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Stand start. Pull onto the slab, and carefully creep rightwards to the blank looking section above the overhang. Tip-toe along the edge of the overhang until you can step up and snag the lip of the boulder.
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There are many different ways to do this . . . some follow a natural line (easier & less direct); some are very contrived (harder, following a more direct line). Average seems around V4. None add to the grade or quality of the full problem from the sit-start.
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Sector Six
2 / 5
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Sit-start underneath a kind of hole feature (right hand is on a low sidepull edge under the overhang, left hand is on a low sidepull jug just outside the overhang). Slap a crux first move to sharp jug on the lip of the overhang, then use jugs and good flakes to rock over the lip and follow the crack up the slab to the top of the boulder. Really good movement with a nice high-step to finish off the tall slab. You could reach up to the sharp, left-hand jug from the sit-start, skipping the first move and the problem would check-in at about V1, or you could force an awkward match on the right-hand start hold at about V4.
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Start as per "Walk the Plank". Climb straight up the groove. There is an easy, but committing, high-step at the top.
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Start as for "Smooth Sailing", hit the lip and surf right to finish on "Hey Sailor".
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Stand start. Pull onto the slab, and carefully creep rightwards to the blank looking section above the overhang. Tip-toe along the edge of the overhang until you can step up and snag the lip of the boulder.
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Would be a great problem anywhere. Start with right hand sidepull edge under the mini-roof and left hand undercling/sidepull down near your feet. Slap through a couple of powerful moves on slopers/pinches until you can snatch the twin incuts in the middle of the face. Snag the lip of the boulder, and work your hands up and right in order to rock onto the slab. Full value! Stand-start from the twin-incuts is a quality V5. (FA Seth Mason, 2003)
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Start as per "Hey Sailor". Climb up and right, following the prow to its peak. Bad landing. (FA Seth Mason, 2003)
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There are many different ways to do this . . . some follow a natural line (easier & less direct); some are very contrived (harder, following a more direct line). Average seems around V4. None add to the grade or quality of the full problem from the sit-start.
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Sector Six
3 / 5
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Sit-start using blocky holds at base of dihedral. Climb up the right side of the dihedral.
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Sit-start, matched low in crack. Climb straight up the short crack.
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Sit-start with left hand low in crack, and right hand low on arete. Fun compression moves lead to top out directly above.
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Eliminate, but a good line. Start as per "Hen Night". Traverse the face of the boulder (lip is OUT) all the way left to finish on "Speak Easy".
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Sit-start at extreme right end of a juggy shelf/rail below lip of boulder. Follow this rail left into a dihedral. Top out at the dihedral, or continue left along the lip of boulder to top out as per "Speak Easy" (more pump, same grade).
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Sector Six
4 / 5
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Located in the pit around the corner, right of Hen Night. Sit-start in the pit, left-hand on a decent crimp, right-hand on a sloping gaston. Punch straight up the prow using small crimps, side pulls and underclings.
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Sector Six
5 / 5
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Climb obvious crimps up slab.