Henri Kellock

Feels hard until you have perfect friction and perfect beta on the same day.

Short but sweet.

Can trad climbing get any better? How would I know, I only seconded this lay-back style with zero foot jams and only a few hand jams. Nice lead by Gabo though! I hope I'll have the time and blue cams and courage to lead this some day. 😊

Need harder shoes before trying to lead this.

I think I top-roped this the last time I was in Olhava more than five years ago. First try this year felt like flashing. I got good tips for gear and placements from Gabo, thanks!

Nice!

2024-08-15: Pink-point. Bad conditions: My three top-ropes tries all failed, water dripping on me all the way. Luckily the crack was mostly dry. While top-roping, I preplaced a lot of pieces, including an BD golden offset provided by Roger. I also felt I figured out a better beta for the crux before the first bolt, so I decided to go for a lead try. Too scared to fall before the bolt, and I knew I could do it after that, so pink-point send for me. Maybe red-point some other day. Markus filmed my ascent with a drone and Eerika belayed me in the darkening evening. 2024-07-09: First try on top-rope. I didn't have any gear with me this time, I'll need to practice the placements before trying to send leading.

Hot hot hot.

Lead 2024-07-09. Top-rope 2024-07-04: While on top-rope I did the crux the hard way with the small crimps. Then I tried to lead it but I slipped from the crimps. Next I tried a new reachy beta which made the crux much easier. But then on my next two leads I fell right after the crux and at the end of the crux. Next time redpoint. Thanks to a tall Ville for the tall beta!

Date not exact.

Felt hard until I climbed it.

Update: Clean lead in 2024. :-) 2011-07-10: Found a picture of the day I was climbing this the first time but I can't really remember if I actually lead this or even managed the top-roping. I'll leave this as a lead project.

Nice!

This route is a good option if all the other routes are occupied. 👍 I mean, it's not super bad, but Sledge Hammer and Urheiluhullu are completely different level fun.

Had to use the small crimp for a semi-static variation. Many tries on bad friction, second try after a rest day. Thanks to Jessica for beta and spotting! :-)

Sit-start. Nice!

Surprisingly okay traverse.

Started hands quite high on okay crimps, but still sitting on log without pad.

Nice, quality holds especially at the top!

Not surprisingly, the stand is easier than the sit-start.

Many loose holds, otherwise very nice!

Many tries...really nice moves!

Nice an tough warmup!

I haven't climbed any boulders outside for almost two years. Felt hard.

One try/session years ago. Second session this year. Direct ending. Thanks to Sanna and Miina for beta and showing how to use "kineettinen ketju" to get past the crux! :-)

I have tried this a couple of times years ago but I didn't fully memorise the beta until I had a longer session on this route with Eerika on May 1st, 2023. After that session, I went through Eerika's beta in my head multiple times, including during a two week trip to Kalymnos. After returning I still needed four sessions before the send. I mainly kept Eerika's beta but had to make a couple of modifications, including a crucial tip from Pasi for the part of the beginning of the crux, the part that was hardest for me. Thanks to Eerika for showing the beta and to Pasi for pushing us to leave to the cliff at 8:30 on a beautifully sunny Saturday morning. Tomorrow's your turn!

Nice new addition to the sector. Quite hard for the grade, or was I just so tired during my last ascent of my trip?

Quite nice but a bit sharp in parts. Save some skin and strength for the end! The bolts look good but at least one of them was in need of tightening. I guess I should carry a tool with me?

The bolts are getting a bit rusty but the route itself was pure awesomeness from start to finish.

Short but sweet!

A bit cruxy but otherwise quite nice.

Nice undercling practice! :-)

A bit sharp but otherwise quite pleasant.

Getting a bit polished but still awesome.

Sharp.

Hard to read middle section. Almost backed down after already climbing the crux because I didn't see the way to the next bolt. Just lift your feet up and trust that you'll find some hidden holds. :-)

Watch out for loose holds at the top. Probably better to skip the loose boulders until they are removed.

Thanks to Juho for crucial beta!

Nice!

Beginning with a couple cams in place by my climbing partner, end onsight.

I really liked this route. Nice holds. Climbed it with a backpack, although I clipped the first bolt without my backpack and then climbed down before taking my stuff with me. :-)

Start with the worst crimps, gradually find better ones. Bad warmup, otherwise maybe okay?

Ok route, if you're tall. Not sure how is coping this if I was shorter. Probably at least harder than 7a if you're shorter.

High beta.

Nice moves on an interestingly bolted route. First two bolts pre-clipped as suggested by someone who had had some...experiences...while falling from the second bolt. My arm was barely long enough to clip the third bolt with my left hand without crimping too much with my right hand. Beta-for-self: The three left siders: left hand to first, feet up, right hand to second while staying on the left, feet higher, left hand to third. Right hand to top part of right sider, feet higher with right in slight back-step, dead-point with right hand to lower sloper, catch thumb in the right place. Right foot to foot hold on the right, carefully hold sloper while matching left hand to higher part of sloper, grab crimpy part, and then lift right hand to undercling crack...jam thumb under crack, other fingers in the crack and pinch until the hand is jammed firmly. Lift feet and move left hand to better part of undercling when possible, continue hands to better siders higher up. Observe the feet holds on the left, and the small cracks. Left foot high, pull to the left with both hands from the good sharp hold, then catch the good sloper with left hand. Not the first one, but the one that is hard to reach without lifting your right foot a bit as well. Lift yourself up, avoid any swing to the left by placing right toes on previous hand holds. Reach up to the left-hand-crack-sider-crimp...with your right hand, lift left foot up, lift body up and clip third bolt from the gaston-position. Reach left hand high to slightly better side-pull, right to the right onto a sloper somewhere far away and invisible, then lift your feet up onto some kind of combination of friction and tiny holds. A sloper somewhere on the right will help getting up to the sloping ledge where you can calm down and observe the long path to the forth bolt. On step at a time. Top-out: two good holds in the crack and a third on the right will help getting above the bulge even while tired.

I didn't personally need a pre-clip as I saw a crimp that I used at the second clip where the foot holds were okay as well. At least if you are tall and this isn't your maximum grade. In other cases, why not pre-clip, especially if your belayer is lighter than you. Safety first. :-) It took me so long to figure out where exactly to traverse right that I ended up doing it in a rain shower. Luckily the top holds were good as I was pretty pumped from going back and forth and trying to find the perfect sequence so as to not ruin my onsight. Ended up using a foot hold on the right side of the crack, didn't see a reason to eliminate it, although I tried at first. 😂

Not hard.

Nice! (All the routes seem to be nice here.)

Felt totally impossible five years ago, now I found a working beta with a couple of tries.. Beginning straight up, crux was lifting my weight onto a sharp 3mm foothold while closed-hand crimping from two one-finger shallow pocket crimps. After the finger pain, I got to experience some more delightful sensations, this time in my feet while lifting myself up to the underclings. My toes hurt. Luckily I didn't manage it during first try, so I got to do it all again. End with my right hand mostly on various holds on the right edge. While not going too much to the right I got to enjoy a weird left-hand undercling on the right side of my balance point while lifting my feet and reaching high up with my right hand, and also of course the spicy ending with high footholds, traverses to the left around the last bolt and some cool slopers that you can only stick if you get your feet up high enough. Such cool moves, but only one star? Too much pain, and too easy to skip all the cool moves if you follow the bolt line too loosely. Also, some bolts were hard to reach before applying quick-draws to them. Anyway, climb it if you like small foot-holds or crimping with one finger. Or both. Have fun! :-)

Maybe it is easier if you're tall?

Thanks to Ville for beta...tried to find my own easier beta but failed and had to go with Ville's powerful moves. :-)

I guess I was tall enough to climb this with a slightly easier ninja-beta.

Nice!

I didn't get where the name came from until a surprising sensation just before the end of the route. Based on this, I think I used the correct beta even though I climbed slightly to the left of the drawn line. Satisfying route!

Might feel easier if you're shorter.

Reachy move.

Stand-start from where the line starts. Did not feel hard.

Not hard.

Redpoint, 16.6.2021: Mostly the same beta as 9 years ago, although clipping didn't seem that problematic this time. Top-rope, 15.6.2012: After the forth clip I moved slightly dynamically to the right onto a small ledge on left side of the Gruffalo crack. Using the ledge for both hands and then a high step makes the route considerably easier, but I guess this ledge is not included? Climbing the route this way gives it some pretty cool moves though, but there might be a bit of swing if leading, since the clips are on the left. Maybe 6c/6c+ this way. Anyone know if the ledge is eliminated?

Unique.

Really nice climbing and unique holds for granite makes for a rare gem in its grade class, which is much closer to 7a than 6a, in my opinion.

Very nice! :-)

Aino ei hyväksy flashiä, koskin joihinkin otteisiin edellisellä reitillä.

Aino todistaa hyväksytyn onsight-suorituksen.

I might have made some sounds on this one.

Quite enjoyable, not too easy. :-)

Climbed the bolt-line, not the drawn line. Bolts are safely on the downhill (left) side while your right hand is in the good crack and right foot is also on the right, left hand is near the two first bolts. The third bolt felt like the most sketchy one for me, I was pulling on a bad sloper with my right hand while hardly trusting my feet at all. 😬

Reachy in some parts.

Climbed the beginning from the right, the crux (reachy+technical+hard to onsight) for me was higher up.

Easy if you can reach it, otherwise probably closer to a seven-something.

Harder for tall? :-)

Hard start, reachy end. Easier for longer reachers.

Nice.

Hard bad sharp crinch.

Sit-start like the beta video.

No room for pads in a couple of places, otherwise really nice long route. :-)

Sit-start possible from left undercling and right sider-crimp, or from right arête. :-)

Hands first, feet first, hands first, feet first, hands first, top out.

Easier for long arms. Sharp.

Short but nice. :-)

Did the lock-off, elbow joints making cracking sounds.

Easier for tall. Might be 6B+ or harder for shorter climbers.

Sit-start. Nice.

Sit-start.

Hard to read, but awesome climb when you know what to do. Thanks to Aino to beta! :-)

Nice and smooth, mostly. :-)

Too sharp for me.

First go after climbing the straight lines. Cleaned and marked the relevant holds before starting. Maybe I cheated with a knee-bar rest but this did not feel that hard. Is the upper part of the crack eliminated?

Top needs some cleaning. Did my best on the way up without any tools.

The weather was quite warm and maybe I had the wrong beta, but this one definitely did not come easily. Two fresh sessions only for this route and broken after both. Luckily I managed this before I ran out of strength...because I needed it on quite a few moves here. I guess I'm not that good on compression routes. Anyway awesome route! Really nice and hard moves all the way...well, up until you manage to step on the arete with both feet. :-)

Staright up, like the line is drawn. Really nice, except for the tree. Took a knee-bar rest and felt the top holds before committing to the straight topout. Decided to trust the tree as my spotter. :-D

Straight up.

Awesome! The beta from KaKi video felt seriously hard, I had to figure out my own beta. Which is of course the best thing about climbing, and routes that enable multiple different betas are thus the most enjoyable. :-)

Learning to squeeze rock Hurissalo style. :-)

Alone.

Hard moves all the way to a rewarding jug at the top. :-)

Nice couple of moves! :-)

Very low crouch start. :-)

Down-climb alone...not recommended...but at least I had 4 crashpads. :-)

Sit-start both hands on the pocket-jug. (The down climb route.)

Sit-start.

Reachy and then sharp. I bled.

Started from a big hold under the lip, but a much lower (and harder) start is possible also. Quite sure the lower start is not 6B. Not sure why this area has not been developed more. Part of the rocks seem somewhat nice.

Not easy, I would say.

Sit-start from broken left crimp on arete and small sharp crimp on the right. Getting myself to the smooth crimp groove was definitely the crux and ended up being all about the foot work; toe-hook on the right and a powerful kneedrop made all the difference between impossible (with my finger strength) and not-that-fingery. A bit morpho beta, probably, but you maybe can also sit-start of you are shorter with a more crimpy beta.

Toppi oikealta, vartalo viivan kohdalla, saako merkata ja downgreidata vai onko eliminaatti? 🤔

Sit-start with huge foot holds.

Very easy if you are tall enough.

Nice. Slightly harder now that I pulled one hold off from the beginning. Probably not quite sit start for shorter...or did I start from the wrong place? Started sit start with right hand stretching high up and left in a small under/sider crimp, feet to the right on the face. Edit: Found some lower holds later on, might be possible to sit start for shorter.

The big hold will come off if you pull on it hard enough...

Sit start. Quite nice moves after the beginning.

And then the topout...yeah. 😬

I've tried this a couple of years ago, took a while to return to it. :-)

I have a feeling I've climbed this right until the last bolt and then chickened out of doing the last move to the anchor a couple of years ago. This year I trusted my feet. The bolting didn't feel dangerous, but I did have a bit of trouble committing to some advances from bolt-to-bolt. Overall quite nice route.

Thanks for the tick-mark at the top to someone. :-)

Based on Annunen's beta-video, I numbered the holds with Roman numerals before my flash attempt...three hours later I managed to finalise a different beta and climb the route. Nice one. :-)

Felt almost impossible during on-sight attempt, but then it went easily on my second go. Hmm, maybe I should learn to use my feet? :-)

Not terrible, maybe even nice at times.

What, why no more stars ppl? Yes, it's a bit dirty, but this route has some of the coolest holds I've used in Finland on it. Recommended. :-)

Took my time looking at the holds and thinking about various possible betas before trying one---and then changing to another half way up. :-D

Used morpho-beta: Sit-start, right hand to the right, both hands to huge undercling, reached from undercling to top-hold, match, mantel, done.

I started with the wrong beta and then it felt pretty hard and took me quite a few tries to adjust everything to perfection. But then the actual ascent didn't feel super hard, so let's leave this at its initial grade. :-)

Nössöjalkkisbeta. :-)

Thanks for beta video, cool moves this way! (I would have climbed a bit more straight up without the video.)

Surprisingly, eliminating all the bad holds from the crux of 42 (6C) makes the (shared?) crux of Matafaka easier. Well at least if you can reach the good holds. Good luck if you can't. Maybe go to the gym and practice dynos to slopers? And once you manage that, prepare for a much harder topout when compared to the end of 42. But hey, at least this skips the ridiculously easy beginning of 42, so I guess that's why the grade is 6A+ instead of 6C?