Johannes Kokkila

Joskus vuosia sitten ekan kerran...

Joskus vuosia sitten ekan kerran...

Koko reitti ilman kumpaakaan aretea

1 session. Send on 5th go. At least 2 of the bolts have loose thingy that you clip to even though the bolts were tight (tried to tighten). I'm not pro, but to me that doesn't sound ideal.

My first 7C in two sessions. Maybe soft.

Quite technical and I'd say hard for the grade

Reachy crux

I first got lost on wrong route and had to restart. I find it difficult especially on a warm sunny day.

No bird nest visible this year (2024)

Yleisessä beta kahdella sessiolla. Ekalla liidiyrkällä sendi.

Saittiyrkkä, ylistyöstö, sendi

Lapsus saitilla

Viereinen linja vei saitin

Tokalla.

Hard start. Maybe I climbed part of it a tad too right. Would have been nicer on the left, but didn’t notice the holds until coming down. Topo 2023: 7a

6c+ or 7a depending on the source

Surprise send. First half flash, second half onsite. Last third was prepared to fall any second due to pump. Possibly a bit easier for a taller person.

Slab, vertical, slightly overhang, jugs, crimps, slopers, tufa... Something for everyone... Lots of possibilities for different approaches

6b+ according to topo

6B+ in the 2024 guide book

The ones to the left are better. The ending isn't that great.

1st lead try after checking the beta in top rope. Especially the first half is really nicely flowing.

tokalla meni

melkein vois sanoa retro flash… vuosien takaa kerran ylistellyt

Joskus vuosia sitten ensimmäisen kerran

joskus 90-luvulla

tokalla meni

Joku voisi kyllä kommentoida, että "väärin kiivetty", kun otteita löytyi vähän piirretyn linjan molemmin puolin ja erityisesti lopussa viereinen reitti tuli varsin lähelle. Alas tullessa kokeilin nuo kohdat myös tiukasti linjalta ja olisi se tehtävissä, mutta saittina ei olisi mennyt.

sandbag

En ainakaan muista kiivenneeni

Taitaa olla retro-onsight noin 30v sitten yliksessä edellisen kerran... Ehkä

Tokalla. En muista päivää tai kuukautta

tokalla. Saitti hyytyi kohtaan johon kaipaa pitkän jatkon.

Ellen sitten joskus muinoin ole jo kiivennyt 🤷‍♂️

Ellen sitten joskus muinoin ole jo kiivennyt 🤷‍♂️

Ensimmäinen liidiyrkkä. Tykkäsin. Tuleekohan nimi 2 ja 3 pultin välistä... Syliin putoaisi.

No flash because same holds with naughty naughty

First lead try. Kamabeta: sin. offset kiila - kelt Z4 - lila Z4 - kelt Z4 & kelt/pun Z4 - sin/kelt Z4 - harmaa Z4 - kelt C4

First lead try

Slipped from start holds... Without that would have been insight

Topped to the right over a bulge. Not sure if that was the correct anchor or if should have used the left one... Topo and 27crags show differently.

Possibly retro from 2008

Used red cam for extra protection

Oikean kautta ilman halkeamaa eli olikos se nyt 6c variantti.

Retro kai?

Retro... Kai

Olisi on-site jos ei ois kiivennyt toista variaatiota ensin

Köysi kiilaantuu helposti halkeamaan. Sinne oli tungettu puutappeja estämään kiilautumista, mutta meidän tapauksessa kiilautuminen tapahtui tapin ja kallion väliin. Tikut on nyt eri asennossa ja todennäköisesti estää kiilautumisen paremmin. En vain tiedä kauanko se pysyy.

Initially years ago thought that I could never climb this. I guess I climbed it the "strict way" starting from the corner and using the wall minimally. Don't know what is the proper way. I think elimination routes are a bit silly, but otherwise a classic!

Dyno version...

Edit 16.4.2023 Lead

Led all pitches. Some bold sections.

Led all pitches

One break at the crux last year on onsite try. Now cleared with top rope. Lead still to-do.

In single pitch.

Led both pitches

Led all pitches. Apparently Golumn and Smeagul are mixed in the topo... Gollum being the right one. That's what people told.

Led all pitches. Apparently Golumn and Smeagul are mixed in the topo... Smeagul being the left one. That's what people told.

2nd pitch via guns and roses

jo edellisellä reissulla 2015

Check the top holds!