Joonas Rautakoski

Classic hand sized splitter crack

Fun route, better than it looks

Second go. Good start, not so good upper part...

Sweet jamming

Classic!

Felt a lot easier than what i had prepared to, bomber hand-jam cruising with small hands=)

Second go

Coooooold!

Finally! For 2 years i have wanted this route, but saved it for a good onsight/flash attempt. I have used all the excuses why "Not today", but today was THE day=)

Hard? OS-try and few projecting sessions, but after fiquering the moves this went with first lead try. Kustavi classic, full jamming-battle from first to last move=)

Valley classic, 3 pitch offwidht testpiece. Really good and memorable route!

Good crack with really steep start

Handcrack cruising

Good crack pitch

Classic testpiece, local "säkkipilli". Climbed with rope and trad gear, highball without pads didnt seem like a good idea on a first day of the trip

Maybe the best route i have climbed, steep and continuous climbing from bottom to top, really long pitches. Slipped from wet moss on leading the first pitch and had to rest on "skyggediedret" when seconding/cleaning. We split the third pitch and i got the Halvmånerisset itself, which was excellent: 20m of vertical pure handcrack-cruising.

Madonnaonsight

Jihaa, first 8-!=) Short, steep and long moves, just my style. Almost with first lead try (dropped a nut from my mouth just after lifting off the ground before this try). Two toprope sessions a week earlier.

Solo with rescuer on top, ready to throw rope if panicking/stuck etc.

Went with first go this year

One of the best crack routes that i have climbed!

Madonnaonsight. Top roped on last visit 5 years ago

Mindfuck! I found moves to crux sequence last autum, after that it was wet 2 times when i tried to lead it. Now friction was perfect when trying in toprope, then offcourse it started raining. After 1h of discontinuous rain i desided to give a lead try anyway. When tying shoes it started to rain for real again, but managed to climb it with huge rage!!

seconded before

Third ascent? "Funniest" boulder in a while, highly recommended. Flashing this one earned me a Cognac bottle from Juha!=D

Really good overhanging thinhands crack

Best handcrack in kustavi!

Maybe the hardest 5+ that i have climbed, but its really nice corner finger-crack

''Päiväreissu norjaan''. Ajettiin Kokkolasta reitin juurelle (n.16h), nukuttuun muutama tunti ja lähettiin approachille n. 2.00 yöllä. Reitin juurella oltiin sopivasti aamun sarastaessa. Olosuhteet varsinkin reitin loppupuolella oli melko eksoottiset alkuviikon myrskyn (räntää 50mm/24h+25m/s tuuli) vuoksi. Topissa klo 14, alas käveltiin ''Normaalireittiä'' töppyrän toiselle puolelle. Autolta autolle: 6h+6h+4h. Kiikkujen jälkeen nukuttiin jokunen tunti ja ajettiin kotiin. Tehokas reissu=)

Starts straight from the road. Simul-climbed first pitch, then 2 pitches of easy ice. Car-car 3h (5min+2h+1h+5min)

200m, 4 pitches, 3 person team. Lots of problems with ropes icing up while climbing and rappelling, -20C+rining water+old ropes= not a good combination. Car-car time 12,5h (1h+6h+5h+0,5h)

3 pitches, 3 person team. Had to climb-rescue our rappeling ropes once (froze to tree while pulling down!!), which took almost 2h with all the hazzle. Car-car time 9h (0,5h+4h+4h+0,5h)

Our masterplan was to climb Greven and Grevinnan on season starter day. Started Grevinnan just when it was time to put headlamps on. Avoided the steep end part with ramp on the right, walked to and rappeled from greven. Car-car time for both Greven and grevinnan 13h.

Ice season starter. Made 4 pitches and rest we simulclimbed. Ascent+descent time just under 4 hours.

Really good for the grade..

Short but still really nice line

First lead try, 2 times toproping before...

''The road was very slippery...''

3rd go...

Superb route! Led pitches 1, 3, 6, 8, 10, 12

To top. 5+3 pitches, rest we simulclimbed. Ascent time 7 hours, long descent with route finding problems and 2 rappels (7h).

My first lead in olhava! Visited 2009 and toproped some routes, now wanted to try this one based on pictures... racked gear straight after arriving to camp, whitout seeing the route, knowing that i would chicken if going to look first. Almost shitted my pants when rowed under the route and saw it first time! Collected my courage and gave it a try, and sent it=)

Alkaa 2m kulmasta vasemmalle, hyllyä pitkin sisäkulmaan.

Top roped (and struggled) years ago... now nice cruising

Really nice one...

Groundup, stupid slip on last 5 meters...

Last days "roadside ice on the way to oslo" plans chanced to "roadside wet tool" because of bermuda shorts weather... crappy route, but better than "pub on the way" alternative=D

Propably nicer in early season when theres less ice and snow and the line goes "deeper" in the groove

Led all pitches (8). Dark and snowstorm started at pitch 6, didn't found descend route in storm (far left on NW-side of vakkotavare), so had to rappel the whole route. Car-car time 19 hours=)

Backed off from snow field (so not done with this one yet) after 3 pitches of nice and interesting, but too slow mixed climbing... sun had already made its tricks on ice (thin slush, detached from rock behind), so had to find alternative rock/mixed route to start pitches (on the right side of "ice" line).

Went for this one, but had to bail after first pitch (on routenro 3) cos second pitch wasn't formed yet... 5m wide rock open river in the middle, water flowing under thin ice on the sides. Worst new years ice conditions in years...

Really nice long fall... Last year had to back off after first pitch cos i "plumed" up to balls in snow hidden waterbowl

Bailed after 2 pitches cos i fell in snow hidden waterbowl and got soaking wet up to balls!

Spotted in dark, turned out easier (and longer) than looked

Scary! Hard to protect...

So nice that climbed it again (first time exactly year ago 5.1.10)... maybe disastrous avalanche conditions affected the choice a bit