Joshua Donovan

Ohhhh den var kämpig att ta ner på onsight. Men mentaliteten var med mig :) små fotsteg…

Mega Line! Riktig fin :) Bra grepp, skumma positioner

Jobbig och desperat med att sätta up Quick draws på vägen.

Tack Elias för din onsight beta som du fuckade upp på… 🙏

Ledde pitch 1 ! Fin klättring och långa pitcher :) Regn och blåst dock..

Maybe soft for the grade?

Classic! Got the sun on my side as well :) First pitch was hard for being a 4… Good placements

Climbed While raining! Cause that’s the kinda weather you get in Lofoten 🤪🤌

Rain … Lead climbed pitch 1,3,5

One hard move…

Ganska simpelt för graden ända upp till taket. Så enligt mig 7a+ kanske… Fin klättring!

First proper short rope tour! Exposed and adventures terrain :) Good views of course 🙌

Led pitch 1 on sagostund (grade 5) Lead pitch 3 & 5. First multi pitch lead 🙌

Long route ! Great for the grade 🙌🙌

Honestly pretty hard

Too bad it’s short… Otherwise it’s awsome! Fine placements :)

Good climbing. Second bolt is badly placed… ground fall possible if you screw up.

This One is 6a in my opinion… Dont get why it’s graded harder than the other 6b+ route around the corner.

Nice and technical piece :) Third try 🙌

Good holds, worse placement :)

First trad route ever :) 🤩

Second trad route in my life! Easy protection :) good to get on trad 😊 Second go

Mega Line for the area! Thought it would be pretty easy to do after trying it the first time. But turns out I fell of at the Topp many times… took me 8 tries in total.

Second go. Förvånansvärt fin led! Rekommenderas Teknisk och mycket layback. Geting bo på marken dock…. Se upp…

Nice views :) Hard in the beginning

Super nice movement in the middle! Thanks Nikoline for the recommendation:) Second go

Second go. Sustained climbing all the way up👍

Went down 5th try. fits me really well in style… So might be harder then I think. But I still think it’s equally as hard as “Holidays in Eden”. So I would suggest 7c+ as grade.

Good technical moves with a pumpy Finnish ! Took way to long to send…

2nd go Unique moves in the start

Day flash. Tried many years ago, but was hard then… Today it feelt good :) Classic route in Stockholm with the finishing roof!

Close on the onsight... But it went down second go! The route is short and intense. Looks easier from the ground. But not such a nice route to be honest...

Hard crimp Crux in the middle. Went down on my second try

This bastard went down now after 7 tries… I sent the route after the second try climbing wrong in the start. Thought it was a but uneven and soft for 8a. But then the man him self, Anton Yakubenko came and told me that the route starts more to the left. So I had read it wrong and skipped the first 7c crux 😂 But now after 7 tries it went down and feels like a solid 8a bench mark. Very even and interesting route!

Hard in the start. Good rest half ways up. 6b climbing towards the end.

Crimpig i början. Men fin i slutet. Soft 7c, men den håller graden tycker jag

Testade några år sedan... Kändes omöjligt. Kom tillbaka nu och så satt den på andra presset :) En av dem finare lederna på Skevik! Men hade varit gött med hård klättring lite längre

Not good climbing or location. But it works great when the sky is pissing down with rain... Second go

Interesting vertical face! What I like is how blank the rest of the wall is. No many other holds to grab... Second go

Good solid climbing all the way. Also two good rests higher up before the last final roof crux. Threw up a high heel over roof to stay on, awesome move! Second go

Hate the first crux... Made me fall to the ground on the first try. Rest is consistent and sporty ! Second go

First crux not that lovely... Rest was fine Second go

Had to speed climb to the top because of thunder coming into the canyon! Fun feeling :)

Really great technical climbing in the beginning. Soon as the roof starts basically jugs, but still cool movement. Psyched to send it with Jupiter !

Pumpy route! Messed up the section in the start two times. But finally got the right beta dield. Its not over until its over... Took me 3 tries total

Awsome flow all the way up!

Saw this line and it looked awesome! Yatsy analyses made me more psyched then the original line Yatsy. Happy to take it down :) After 5 tries of figuring out the body positions…

30 meters of climbing! Great climbing with good holds all the way. Funky/bad feet holds. Recommend! Solid 7b

Real fight i must say… Came almost all the way up to the topp on my onsight go, but quickly realized that the crux was at the topp… scary climbing at the topp with extreme rope drag. But feels good to finally have sent it. Probably one of the hardest in this grade that I have tried.

Technical climbing, cool moves! Pretty solid for the grade. Middle crux

Took me some time to stick the crux in the begging. Need to work on tension I guess… Rest of the route is great with a variety of moves and climbing styles.

First part is around 7a. But the rest of the route I’d sadly 6a+ climbing. Therefore not that consistent

Went down on the second go. Sharp crimps and not that great climbing in my opinion. But technical moves. Hard in my opinion

Prima led med kluriga tekniska sekvenser för graden! Längden på leden tillför också väldigt mycket :)

Almost went down on my flash, but did not manage to stick the last slot… really nice though. Second Go

Fun route! Great variation of moves and loved the stemming crux in the middle of the wall ;) Definitely recommend

Basically mega crimps and jugs all the way up. What makes the grade are the funky positions and the steepness. But a bit soft I would say.

Cool moves on steep overhang. Finish off with some technical positioning moves at the vertical wall. Pretty even if you ask me. Its not over until you have clipped the anchor. 2nd Go

Finally, first 8b! Short and intense route! Fits my style perfectly. Two days of projecting and 6 tries was what it took to send. Tiny sharp crimps which makes every attempt count, skin is not on topp after... One the best routes at the crag!

Consistent and interesting moves :) It not over until the end !

One of the favorites at the cliff based on what I’ve climbed. Not an even route, but the middle crux is great ;) Recommend

Hard 7a! But nice moves with flow. No good rest which made it consistent.

Got excellent beta which made it possible! Crux in the very beginning. Small ass crimps :)

The ending was fun. Rest ok…

Great start with powerful moves. Then the vertical/slab starts. No good rest which makes it intense and pumpy. Have not tried everything at flaten, but this is one of the best lines so far! Went down on the Third try.

Classic flaten route. Cool dynamic move over the lip. Went down on the 4th try.

Interesting moves! I could not figure out the crux and stick the heel hook. So crimped some tiny footholds and managed to pass it... Not the finest. Would have wished for a bit harder moves towards the end, the route was basically over after the first crux. 4th go

I really liked this route! Starts with some steep boulder moves, quite intense (important with body positioning). Crux over the lip. Followed by some easier climbing on vertical face up to an ultimate no hands knee bar. Finishes of with great compression moves, my favorite part of the route! Give it a try if you feel psyched.

Roligt avslut på Bad Boys! Ihållande och pumpig :) Inte så beta krävande, vilket var skönt :) Gick ner på andra försöket :) Bra dag

Not my favorite route... But had to do it because of it being a classic! Probably took me about 9 tries. I agree though that the Sator could be 7c+

2nd Go Jug start, flow climbing. Crux over the lip. What makes the route nice is the length of it I would say.

Gick ner första försöket idag efter 3 helger av projektering. Har kört tidigare på leden också. Men det var perfekt stick idag. Håller med Tor om att leden kan vara 8a+ nu (efter juggen lossnat).

Fick gissa mig fram, då det inte fanns krita någonstans och hade precis snöat. Men det gick ändå! Fin klättring för att vara anneberget…

inge kul...

Fun climbing for being such a short route. Enjoyed the middle section and of course toping out at the top!

Classic! Crux at the end 😆

Kul klättring för att vara henriksdal. Men mycket lös sten.

3 spiders...

Hard start... But easier half way up!

2nd Go Nasty crimps... But fun climbing!

Oufff säger jag bara... Ta i och skrik. Väldigt kort och intensiv led. Känns som 7b+ ???

Crux på slutet! Fin led som är lång och har en fin traverse. Tog mig alldeles för många försök, trillade av på slutet konstant...

One of the best climbs in my life! If this was a sport route it would definitely be harder grade! But this is a whole other type of climbing. Your legs are destroyed after….

2nd Go

crimpy...

Fin klättring! Oberedd på crimp crux mot slutet av leden. Men det gick på andra försöket :) Mer åt 7a+ hållet

Classic route! Long and endurance. Not any specific crux. pretty nice flow on it :)

2nd Go

2nd Go

Crux i början! Men inte alls så svårt när man listar ut sekvensen. Slutet enklare :)

2nd Go Crimpig men kul klätting!

Nice short overhanging route!