Juho Kuisma

Really similar roof section to Stepping Out in Latheronwheel. Just not quite as nice of a setting. ;)

Basic slabbin'.

Onsighted 7.8.2022. Now climbed it again without the bolts. Adds a little spice, but surprisingly well protected. Quite nice as trad. Pro 2.

Decent climbing up the face. A bit sparse gear at the start, but eases halfway through.

Walk up on jugs for me, but a huge struggle right off the deck for me wife who couldn't reach the jugs. Not nearly as good as the Scottish sea adventures.

HVS with bomber pro. Continuously overhanging crack with plenty of jugs, jams and gear. Waves crashing below add to the experience.

Small stack barely detached from the main land, but a stack nonetheless. Great moves on jugs at an amazing setting. Fulmar nesting on top, but traversing to the left before topping out avoids bothering it.

Similar line to Coaster, but a bit more involved climbing and less gear.

Led twice. Second time completely drenched by the incoming high tide just to escape to solid ground. ;)

TR flash. Wasn't keen on trying to onsight with the runouts. Should lead at some point.

Solid 6b. Pre-placed draws and some decent beta from Joni's onsight go helped quite a bit.

Fingers ad infinitum and plenty of pro. Pretty sweet line. Led Salama before this, but it barely helps the effort.

Was running out of gear near the top and had to do some improvised back cleaning to protect the very top. First lead in Olhava.

One stiffer sequence. Other than that, pretty easy going.

Fell a couple of times on the start. Left cams preplaced in the good slot on the redpoint go mostly out of convenience.

Stemming on a really unique feature. Limited, but bomber pro. Pro 2.

Decent climbing and plenty of pro.

Full body experience with decent ring locks and paddle hands in the back. Can't really call it a 5- in good conscience, albeit it was quite a bit easier for my wife with smaller hands.

Gotta tick 'em all.

TRS. A bit of a logistical nightmare to solo with multiple redirects above and mud below. Had to weigh gear to clean redirects from the roof. Will be back to lead this.

A bit wet, but climbable. Someone has left a .3 camalot well and truly stuck on the start of the crack.

Wet..

Wet..

Second go.

Nice techy slabbin'.

TRS flash. Cruising until the very end. End is clearly the crux, but I can reach the chains from the good undercling making it quite a bit easier. I'll grade it once I come back to lead it. Probably in the 6c/+ range.

Fell from the last bolt on the onsight go. Went down solidly on the second go.

Couple nice jams, but mostly jugs outside the crack. A grade harder than Pienetkulkuset.

Few move boulder crux. Almost fell on the jugs after the crux due to awful pump. Fingers kept opening on the jugs.

Crux is the boulder right off the deck. Rest is just cruising on jugs. Nice steep climbing though. A grade easier than Jippo liukastus.

Not your typical Kustiva crack, but really enjoyed it. Didn't have half ropes so used two single ropes. Bomber gear, eats all totem sizes.

Bail from Strontium. Dirty and miserable. That's what you get for bailing. ;)

Superb jamming, but short and a bit soft. Sähköpaimen (5+) is both harder and longer.

Great jamming to a bit awkward wider finish.

TRS second go. Placed all the draws. Couldn't lead due to a thunderstorm. Not quite as easy as people make it out to be. Maybe 6c/6c+. Will grade once I'll come back to lead this.

Top roped before leading. Chill well protected climbing. Laybacked the top with feet on spruce. Not big on eliminates, especially on trad. Top part is quite unique.

TRS, second go. Will be back to lead this. Mostly fingers and laybacking, but gloves might be nice for the end. Small cams and nuts.

Enjoyed the offwidth finish.

Decent slab.

Great fight right on my onsight limits. 7a+ is too generous though. 7a in the topos and feels like a solid 7a.

Leave it to me to find the dingy corner next to the cave. Some decent jamming, but mostly just jugs. Bit of a wrestle nonetheless.

Stunning line, non-stop exposure and some actually challenging climbing. Full value! Led even pitches. w/ Joni

Led all even numbered pitches. Crux pitch required some finesse, but 6b seems accurate. w/ Joni

Surprisingly taxing. Easy climbing, but lots of it. Linked first two pitches and led all even numbered ones after that. w/ Joni

With a few quickdraws preplaced.

Climbed to check out the south wall.

Basic and a bit soft.

Nice sensitive start. Continued to the Hopeinen kuu anchor for the extra mileage.

Actually mellow Yosemite 5.6 corner/hands. One of the only routes in shade at the crag.

5.7 in the topos, which seems to be more in line with the first pitch even with the notorious sandbagging. Not quite as good as the other classic moderate multipitches. Led all pitches w/ Heli following. Roped up for the final scramble as well which seemed closer to fifth than fourth class.

Perfect hands/thin hands for most of the way. Finishes on short section of fingers, stemming and jugs.

Three pitches of great crack and corner climbing. Just a bit hollow/loose at places. Led all pitches w/ Heli following. Descent in the dark.

5.6 variation and four pitches. Led all w/ Heli following. Linked pitches 2 and 3, which was barely doable with a 70m rope. Almost stepped on a rattlesnake on the descent.

Slick first pitch, but just keeps getting better. Great splitter hands to finish the route. Cost to reward ratio is up there as you get brilliant view of the Half Dome after only three pitches of climbing. Led all pitches w/ Heli following.

Felt soft, but haven't bouldered for a while so hard to say.

Two pitches, led both. Soft, glassy and chossy, hardly ideal.

Nice versatile pitch.

Super awkward thin hands crux. Felt by far the hardest currently established trad route in Veikkola. Might be easier with smaller hands. Fell a few times on the onsight go, but went down cleanly on the second go. Definitely not a 5, maybe more like 6-/F6a+. ;)

Stiff last section. Struggled to fit my fingers in the thin seam.

Awkward

Two pitches. 2nd pitch scramble to the top was wife's first trad lead. :)

No laybacking.

What a struggle. Climbed the crux as a chimney instead of stemming.

Beautiful line, clean jamming from start to finish!

Flying warmup. :)

Huge fight on the onsight go, but fell before the offwidth and another time from the offwidth. Went down solidly on the second go. First Finnish 6 trad lead and definitely harder than any 6- I've climbed. Feels like the F6b is justified.

Nice warmup line.

Wandered to the Taikanauha top section after the steep part by accident. Decent line nonetheless.

Some nice moves, surprisingly pumpy.

Adventurous, but safe traverse. Can be done without any trad gear if you're willing to run it out a few meters before getting to the Talviaika upper part. Used one yellow totem thereabouts.

Pitch 1 of Naulatraverse.

First go after finding the mega undercling at the crux.

Meh.

Second go. Left ohm preclipped on first bolt on the second go for convenience and extra safety.

Two pitches. Led both.

Great offwidth struggle to open the season to.

Ended up accidentally on La putschitrona route higher up. Continued to the right anchor after realizing it.

Led pitches 2 and 3.

Beautiful line with just enough bolts. The best 6a I've ever climbed! Saw the previous party climbing it so doesn't count as onsight.

Steep and sustained 35 meter ride. Great stuff!

Relaxing expedition with easy climbing and great views. Kneebar rest at the crux pitch for style points. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 9 and 10.

Easier than the hardest section of Krapula, but more sustained. A bit dirty, but enjoyable climbing! Route name's still relevant.

Decent laybacking section.

Seconded.

Led the second pitch.

Relaxed climbing and well bolted.

Belayed Sami before leading. The start is a bit awkward to protect.

Prework send between intermittent rain showers. Top was wet, but the start wasn't since it's slightly overhanging. Struggled hard with the first move, which may justify the two grade difference to the stand start.

Few tries. Went down quite easily after I found the good part of the start hold. Rather safe top out, which is nice every now and then.

Unique boulder. The dab danger is real!

Deadpoint move from full crimp mono crystal to the top above a sketchy landing in the dark. Loved it! Thanks Untamo for the head torch!

Dyno from nökäre to the lip. Top out wasn't as bad as it looked. Took a couple of sessions and some beta fine tuning to stick the dyno, but still felt a bit soft for a 7A.

One session, but had some help with the beta. Very beta intensive with some exotic moves.

First go, but I've climbed both Potilas and The Big Crack previously. Climbed up Potilas to place gear in the diagonal crack. Then back down, traverse right and up the arete.

With Hans Dülfer's start, which adds a nice short jamming section.

Seconded before leading. Three different mini boulder problems separated by rests on sloping ledges. Could be more sustained, but decent climbing nonetheless. Surprise bolts at the top.

Two pitches, led both. Vertical or even slightly overhanging start on good jugs and easier slab for the rest of the way.

Interesting bouldery crux and easy climbing before and after that. Well protected with camalots up to #6. Feels like a 6-/F6a.

One of the best looking lines in Veikkola with a surprisingly pumpy laybacking section.

Awful struggle.

Stand start.

Aesthetic block and decent moves.

1st go. Climbed Rock Fall Alley first.

Really cool and versatile moves for the grade.

Decent climbing, but really short. Boulder height, but the landing is lousy.

One session, but quite a few tries. Great powerful moves! Maybe a bit sandbagged.

Pre-clipped first bolt.

TRS. Some really good and some super awkward jams. Had to resort to laybacking at around halfway through.

TRS practice

Nice one! Alternating heel and toe hooks all the way and a cool mantle move to finish it off. Some core tension required to avoid dabbing.

The rain subsided and I got some chalk. Better experience than the rest.

Without pads or chalk in rainy weather. The quintessential Finnish bouldering experience.

Without pads or chalk in rainy weather. The quintessential Finnish bouldering experience.

Without pads or chalk in rainy weather. The quintessential Finnish bouldering experience.

Sharp af.

Beautiful line and really enjoyable climbing. Led the second pitch.

Mostly just scrambling. 6 pitches, led the odd-numbered ones. Foot slipped out of nowhere on the peace mark pitch crack and took a small whipper. Sent it on the second go.

Superb route! Led even-numbered pitches.

Harder first move and campusing on jugs after that.

Cool compression and laybacking moves.

Horrible sit start. Struggled to get my ass off the pad.

Cool line

One move wonder with a bit wet and scary top out. Luckily the crux was at the very start.

A proper fist fight indeed. Did not expect to find that in Palakoski. Best in its grade.

Second go. Straight up from the final bolt.

Required some really cool beta. Won't spoil it here.

Felt really easy. Maybe more repeats are required to assess the grade.

Nice easily protectable little multi-pitch adventure. Led both pitches.

Nice little wrestle. 2nd go.

Core intensive

Same start as Herbert. Used a really high and probably unnecessary heel for the topout. Cool move though.

Slipped and dipped my foot in the mud. Got the revenge send though.

Used an extended quickdraw in the chains due to the ledge below. Still did the final move or two to the chains after clipping it.

Nice trad practice with easy jams, jugs and placements

Easy climbing on really interesting features

First trad lead

Lead pitches 1, 2 and 3