Ascents

Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Gr.
Tot
On
Fl
Re
To
Diagram
7c 0 0 0 0 0
7b+ 1 0 0 1 0
7b 3 0 0 3 0
7a+ 7 1 0 6 0
7a 4 0 1 3 0
6c+ 13 4 2 7 0
6c 17 7 0 8 2
6b+ 10 4 3 3 0
6b 20 14 5 1 0
6a+ 19 15 2 2 0
6a 11 9 2 0 0
5+ 8 7 1 0 0
5 4 3 1 0 0
4+ 0 0 0 0 0
4 2 2 0 0 0
3+ 0 0 0 0 0
Ascents
Route Grade Crag Type Ascent date Ascent type
Isili
6c+ Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
overhanging start with jugs, then passage with crimps and to the top. managed to recover by BREATHING at the end hahaha ;)
6c+ Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2014-03-02
On-sight
On-sight
Mayhem
5+ Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
warm-up on pockets
5+ Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2014-03-02
On-sight
On-sight
Merlin's Crack
6b+ Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
great dihedral to stem up, at the end pumpy traverse to the left...awesome doing sport-climbing in austria in march!!! next time "midian direkt"!!!
6c (6b+) Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2014-03-02
Red point
Red point
Metamorfosis
6c Sport at Los Remedios
nice boulder on crimps at the beginning, then beautiful moves on good holds to the top
6c Los Remedios Sport 2014-01-08
On-sight
On-sight
Gobi
7a Sport at Los Remedios
nice boulder up the first 3 quick-draws, then a beautiful & balancy arete and two easy roofs at the end...FLASH!!! :)
7a Los Remedios Sport 2014-01-08
Flash
Flash
Spiritchaser
6b Sport at Los Remedios
nice warm-up route with chimney, crimps and pockets
6b Los Remedios Sport 2014-01-08
On-sight
On-sight
Vaykuntha
7a+ Sport at Los Remedios
awesome 20 metres of dihedral-climbing with nearly no holds and a lot of hard steming and crazy foot-positions, then the really intimitating roof which you climb up using a brutal lay-back-finger-crack followed by a strange mantle...my first 5.12a ONSIGHT!!! What a day :)
7a+ Los Remedios Sport 2014-01-08
On-sight
On-sight
Nirvana
6b Sport at Presa Francisco Zarco
awesome long & sustainted route with lovely holds
6b Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 2013-12-21
On-sight
On-sight
Escorpion
perfect, long warm-up on perfect lime-stone
5 Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 2013-12-21
Flash
Flash
Cuarto Mandala
6b+ Sport at Presa Francisco Zarco
nice vertical route with a complicated crux on tiny incut-limestone-crimps
6b+ Presa Francisco Zarco Sport 2013-12-21
Flash
Flash
La Viola
6c+ Sport at Guadalcazar
long, lovely & sustainted route with goes up 35 metres. the first half you climb overhanging stalactites to a good rest and then more vertical and technical climb on tufas up to the chains
6c+ Guadalcazar Sport 2013-08-25
Flash
Flash
Tutantitan
7a+ Sport at Guadalcazar
steep, overhanging & pumpy climb on stalactites with a crux on perfect crimps at the end and a really hard position to clip the chains...at left entrance of Cueva San Cayetano/3rd try
7a+ Guadalcazar Sport 2013-08-24
Red point
Red point
Lomo de Aligator
6b Sport at Guadalcazar
nice climb on tufas...short, funny and not too steep, actually the easiest route (the only 5.10) at Cueva de San Cayetano
6b Guadalcazar Sport 2013-08-24
Flash
Flash
El Nicho
7a+ Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try (but should have been a flash)...nice short, overhanging route with a bouldery crux --> good sideholds plus a heelhook, then a huge move, then but your feet up and catch a tiny, bad crimp and from there a fast move to a good incut, then clip and keep it together to the chains.
7a+ Jilotepec Sport 2013-08-15
Red point
Red point
Escupe Vacas
5+ Sport at Jilotepec
nice warm-up on great holds
5+ Jilotepec Sport 2013-08-15
On-sight
On-sight
Sal de mi
6b+ Sport at Jilotepec
awesome route...long and sustainted with one sweet crux where you have to crimp a small sidehold
6b+ Jilotepec Sport 2013-08-15
On-sight
On-sight
Learning to Fly
6c+ Sport at Los Remedios
nice warm-up climb about 20 meters up the beautiful arete, then a good rest to finally conquer the big roof with some huge bouldery moves
6c+ Los Remedios Sport 2013-08-09
Red point
Red point
Ying
6b Sport at Los Remedios
nice vertical slab with great pockets and 2 easy overhangs at the top
6b Los Remedios Sport 2013-08-09
On-sight
On-sight
Cosma Shiva
6c Sport at Los Remedios
some hard moves on crimps and 1-finger-pockets, then good rest, again hard moves + good rest...and so on :)
6c Los Remedios Sport 2013-08-09
On-sight
On-sight
Luna llena
nice corner
6a+ La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-08-07
On-sight
On-sight
Trampa
scary climb up the first quick-draw...then keeping it together with a bad crimps and an undercling
6c La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-08-07
On-sight
On-sight
Izquierda de Trampa
nice finger crack then crux with a bad crimp
6c La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-08-07
On-sight
On-sight
Izquierda de Valientes
crux up to the first quick-draw
6a (6b) La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-08-07
Red point
Red point
Valientes
fiesta de crimps
6b+ (6c) La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-08-07
Red point
Red point
La Sociedad Rangel
5+ Sport at Peña de Bernal
5.10a; nice free-solo on this great route following a good crack up "el capitán calzón"
5+ Peña de Bernal Sport 2013-08-02
On-sight
On-sight
Cyclope
6b Sport at Los Remedios
nice vertical climb on great holds...then a mental runout from the last bolt to the chains
6b Los Remedios Sport 2013-07-28
On-sight
On-sight
Panza
2nd try...a short, bouldery route just about 8 metres high...still it's got beautiful moves on crimps, under-clings, slopers and a huge dyno to a pocket-jug to leave the roof :)
7b La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2013-07-09
Red point
Red point
La Cascada Pipi de Chipilin
6b Sport at Los Dinamos
my first 3 bolts in my life, thank's a lot urs for teaching me!!! nice, vertical warm-up-route at "La Cueva de Chipilin"/Cuarto y Medio Dinamo :)
6b Los Dinamos Sport 2013-06-29
FA On-sight
FA On-sight
El Penitente
chingónnn, just an amazing route...my mexican project at my 4th session in "la cueva" finally came to an end!!! first you start through a funny overhang with beautiful sustained moves for the first 4 quickdraws trying not to get pumped...and then starts the crux-section for the next 2 quick-draw with some huge horizontal movements where you have to keep it together and make all kind of wired hooks, finally at the end you have to push really hard along a steep crack up to the chains, screaming included :)
7b+ El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 2013-02-26
Red point
Red point
Secuencia Inicial
6a+ Sport at Los Remedios
one of the most beautiful pocket-routes!!! long and sustained, really fun!!!
6a+ Los Remedios Sport 2013-02-20
On-sight
On-sight
Trinity
6a+ Sport at Los Remedios
nice little slab for warm-up...jaja route no.1 in the guide-book
6a+ Los Remedios Sport 2013-02-20
On-sight
On-sight
La Quimera
6c+ Sport at Los Remedios
nice little overhang at the start, then nice slab-climbing and a technical finish up to the chains (with quite bad rock, so cat-mode!!!)
6c+ Los Remedios Sport 2013-02-20
Red point
Red point
Rayando el Sol
6b Sport at Los Remedios
great start with huge jugs...then the crux along a crimp-rail and some pockets
6b Los Remedios Sport 2013-02-20
On-sight
On-sight
Desconocido
nice short route at the entrance of "the cave"...technical climbing on crimps and pocket with the crux right before the chains...2nd try (however i have to confess that i grapped the chains for clipping)...
7a+ El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 2013-01-27
Red point
Red point
El Chauhuistle
6c Sport at Jilotepec
same start like "el chaneque" but easier finish
6c Jilotepec Sport 2013-01-24
On-sight
On-sight
El Pilar
5+ Sport at Jilotepec
soloing a nice chimney to get on the top of the spire (el pilar)...niiice view of the Peñas de Dexcani from above :)
5+ Jilotepec Sport 2013-01-24
On-sight
On-sight
El Chaneque
7a+ Sport at Jilotepec
one of the BEST routes in Jilo...4th try...starts with a cool V3-boulder to the first quick-draw, followed by a no-hand-rest on a ledge. then you climb up a steep, slightly overhanging dark wall with nobs until you get to a huge rail (actually this is a huuuge embedded pebble). from here starts the crux (aprox. a V4-boulder) where you have to crimp hard, put your foot up high and continiue crimping up to the next good rail. then just keeping it together with awesome slab-climbing on nobs to the chains...a masterpiece (i would give more than 3 stars)...now syced for "El Nahual"!!!
7a+ Jilotepec Sport 2013-01-24
Red point
Red point
Elmo
7a+ Sport at Los Dinamos
THE line at 1° Dinamo, an amazing route through the big roof...little bouldery start with a tricky mantle, then a good rest before you climb up a roof-crack and finish with some great big movements to the chains...2nd go, could have flashed it without 2 weeks of pause before, haha ;)
7a+ Los Dinamos Sport 2013-01-07
Red point
Red point
Super Trosis
7b Sport at Los Dinamos
perfect short boulder-route...easy overhanging- climbing up the first 3 quick-draws and then starts the action: cross to a good crimp and match another crimp with you left hand, move your foots up high and make a heel-hook in a hole, then a big move with your right to a bad crimp, match a 2-finger-side-crimp with your left hand, remove the hook and make a short dead-point move with right to the good crimp, then clip the 4th quick-draw and just keeping it together to the top :) unfortunately the first 2 bolt are very bad (never felt there, but i'm gonna change them), but the 3rd bolt where you have your whippers is ok!
7b Los Dinamos Sport 2012-12-15
Red point
Red point
Subete si quieres
nice little warm-up route at this impressive huge cave...now psyched for "Trauma" 5.13a
6b+ El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente Sport 2012-12-13
Flash
Flash
Kilowatito (versión chimenea)
6a+ Traditional at Los Dinamos
first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)
6b+ (6a+) Los Dinamos Traditional 2012-12-08
Red point
Red point
Hormigas
6a+ Traditional at Los Dinamos
nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)
6b (6a+) Los Dinamos Traditional 2012-12-08
On-sight
On-sight
Dias de Trueno
6c+ Sport at Los Dinamos
the line which first catches the eye at Primer Dinamo...a big roof with nice movements on good holds...haha, unfortunately just 2nd go...had a big fail at my flash-try falling just under the anker, getting pumped & not seeing anything because of the sun)...100% kremstal-style ;)
6c+ Los Dinamos Sport 2012-11-29
Red point
Red point
Lagartijas
6c Sport at Los Dinamos
scary start...then a bit of endurance at the slab
6c Los Dinamos Sport 2012-11-29
On-sight
On-sight
Escorpiojos
6c+ Sport at Los Dinamos
quite hard boulder up the first bolt...then following up the crack is just a dream...did it 2 times :)
6c+ Los Dinamos Sport 2012-11-20
On-sight
On-sight
Alas de Estrella
6b+ Sport at Los Dinamos
nice little route with a funny boulder-start and another little overhang below the anker
6b+ Los Dinamos Sport 2012-11-20
On-sight
On-sight
El Alacrán
6b Sport at Jilotepec
nice complicated start up the first 3 quick-draws...then relaxed climbing
6b Jilotepec Sport 2012-11-11
On-sight
On-sight
Pipetaputo
6c+ Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try...technical steep slab-climbing with great crimps
6c+ Jilotepec Sport 2012-11-11
Red point
Red point
Valientes
2nd try...nice technical slab with bad crimps and a dynmic move
6c La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-11-04
Red point
Red point
Otro Techo
2nd try...the roof some metres to the right of "Valientes"...some funny moves up a corner-crack followed by some campusing along the roof :)
6c La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-11-04
Red point
Red point
Izquierda de Valientes
nice little route with a funny crux at the beginning...some metres left of "Valientes"
6b La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-11-04
Flash
Flash
Nido de Ardillas
6b Sport at Jilotepec
nice long route on great conglomerate-rock with funny holds & good rests
6b Jilotepec Sport 2012-10-20
On-sight
On-sight
Gula
6c+ Sport at Jilotepec
2nd try, nearly could have done an on-sight. incredible vertical-slightly overhanging route with sharp crimps
6c+ Jilotepec Sport 2012-10-20
Red point
Red point
El hombre del costal
6c+ Sport at Jilotepec
boulder-start to the first quick-draw followed by technical slab-climbing
6c+ Jilotepec Sport 2012-10-20
On-sight
On-sight
El Techito (izquierda)
the left variation of this beautiful roof...pretty much the same difficulty like the right-one & equally beautiful
6b+ (6b) La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-10-16
Flash
Flash
El Techito
another go on this incredible short-route
6b+ (6b) La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-10-16
Red point
Red point
El Aliado
6c Sport at Hoyanco Chonta
crazy route...25 metres through overhanging stalactites. had a really good on-sight-go to the last quick-draw, but sent it the next day easily :)
6c Hoyanco Chonta Sport 2012-09-23
Red point
Red point
Kalimán
6a+ Sport at Hoyanco Chonta
the only vertical and easy route at "La Chonta"...fine crux at beginning on slopers followed by a really long route
6a+ Hoyanco Chonta Sport 2012-09-22
Flash
Flash
Ruta 2
6a Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
another nice doble-crack
6a Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 2012-09-07
On-sight
On-sight
Ruta 3
6a+ Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
great route with some metre on a fingercrack
6a+ Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 2012-09-07
On-sight
On-sight
Ruta 4
6b Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing
6b Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 2012-09-07
On-sight
On-sight
Ruta 1
6a+ Traditional at Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground
6a+ Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo Traditional 2012-09-07
On-sight
On-sight
???
6a+ Sport at Los Dinamos
long route up a slab
6a+ Los Dinamos Sport 2012-08-25
On-sight
On-sight
???
6a Sport at Los Dinamos
nice route on a exposed pillar
6a Los Dinamos Sport 2012-08-25
On-sight
On-sight
Monodedo
don't know the name of the route yet. nice slap with perfect crimps & pockets, at the crux you have to pull on a one-finger-pocket :)
6a+ La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-08-05
On-sight
On-sight
Esquina
don't know the name of the route yet. nice technical slab to gain a beautiful corner...
6a La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-08-05
On-sight
On-sight
El Techito
just an awesome route through an impressive roof...easy start, then with an undercling and a sloper you catch the edge of the roof and make some (campus)-moves to the top...really boulder-like & looks much harder than the grade :)
6b La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria Sport 2012-08-05
On-sight
On-sight
Schölli
6a Sport at Zigeunerloch
easy warm-up, my first climb at beautiful zigeunerloch...failed later trying to flash "mini-cooper" during rain ;)
6a Zigeunerloch Sport 2012-06-11
On-sight
On-sight
Via Lisa
5+ Traditional at Ewige Jagdgründe
nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)
5+ Ewige Jagdgründe Traditional 2012-05-28
Flash
Flash
Streamer
6a+ Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
nice paralello-crack climbed with 2 friends...unfortunately bolted & just 10m high ;)
5+ (6a+) Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2012-05-28
Flash
Flash
Napalm in the morning
6a+ Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
again pooockets
6a+ Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
On-sight
On-sight
Weirdcong
6b Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
tall moves on good pockets
6b Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
Flash
Flash
Herbsthorst
6a+ Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
nice long route up a flake + pockets ;)
6a+ Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
On-sight
On-sight
Rasluka
6a Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
long route on pockets
6a Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
Flash
Flash
Runenzauber
6a+ Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
long steep route on pockets
6a+ Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
On-sight
On-sight
M 16
6a Sport at Scheiblingkirchen
nice wall with pooockets
6a Scheiblingkirchen Sport 2012-04-20
Flash
Flash
Geierwally
6b+ Sport at Maltatal
beautiful sustainted route with amazing rock...
6b+ Maltatal Sport 2012-04-11
Red point
Red point
Jeder wie er will
6b Sport at Maltatal
nice & short route...using the new rope for the first time
6b Maltatal Sport 2012-04-10
Red point
Red point
Wall
7a+ Sport at Suesca
some metres to the right from "Los Gnomos", don't know the name & grade...technical wall climbing on under-clings up to an arete...from there a scary (a moving bolt) & pumpy (overhanging with heel-hooking-action) traverse to the top...
7a+ Suesca Sport 2011-09-04
Red point
Red point
Los Gnomos
7a Sport at Suesca
nice route!!! hard wall-climbing up to the 4th quick-draw...then easy metres to the top on really bizzare rock :)
7a Suesca Sport 2011-09-04
Red point
Red point
Roof-Crack
5+ Traditional at Suesca
funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)
5+ Suesca Traditional 2011-09-04
On-sight
On-sight
Hopsa
6b Sport at Huatluckn
just a unspectacular warm-up-route, at least a flash ;)
6b Huatluckn Sport 2011-06-19
On-sight
On-sight
Via Maria
6c Sport at Schatzinsel
pockets and more pockets ;)
6c Schatzinsel Sport 2011-06-06
Red point
Red point
Mei Thai
6c+ Sport at Schatzinsel
great line up a blue sinter
6c+ Schatzinsel Sport 2011-06-06
Red point
Red point
Mozzies Live
6a+ Sport at Schatzinsel
funny, but wet
6a+ Schatzinsel Sport 2011-06-06
Red point
Red point
Diagonal Crack
6b Traditional at clean up Val Masino
great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno
6b clean up Val Masino Traditional 2011-05-06
On-sight
On-sight
Il Risveglio di Kundalini
6a+ Traditional at Mello multi pitch
6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches
6a+ Mello multi pitch Traditional 2011-05-03
On-sight
On-sight
Fessura della Disperazione
6b+ Traditional at Sergent Area
3 pitches, 90m, 6b+ THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;) ...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3. Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.
6b+ Sergent Area Traditional 2011-04-26
On-sight
On-sight
Incastromania
6a Traditional at Sergent Area
great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack
6a Sergent Area Traditional 2011-04-25
On-sight
On-sight
The Inshallah Factor
6c Traditional at Wadi Rum
15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;) THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free. Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :) The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock. The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;) Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling. we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)
7a (6c) Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-27
On-sight
On-sight
Lionheart
6b Traditional at Wadi Rum
6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4) "If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers) ...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade... climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3. In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch. Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led. Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers... Just an awesome route!!!
6b+ (6b) Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-24
On-sight
On-sight
Ka Kush, Ka Hasch
6a Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a) a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah. We came back the next day & just tried to climb it. Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams. Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.
6a Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-21
FA On-sight
FA On-sight
Merlin's Wand (Super Crack of Rum)
6a+ Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5) incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds. Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.
6a+ Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-16
On-sight
On-sight
Le Bal des Chameaux
5 Traditional at Wadi Rum
5/~100m/3 pitches (?) an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;) we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)
5 Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-15
On-sight
On-sight
Cat Fish Corner
6c Traditional at Wadi Rum
6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a) a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank. Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)
6c Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-14
Top rope
Top rope
Inferno
6b Traditional at Wadi Rum
6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+) 5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best... climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.
6b Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-13
On-sight
On-sight
The Beauty
6a Traditional at Wadi Rum
6a/~200m/5 pitches The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil. Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)
6a Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-12
On-sight
On-sight
Goldfinger
5+ Traditional at Wadi Rum
5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing... climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!
5+ Wadi Rum Traditional 2011-02-11
On-sight
On-sight
Via Lara
4 Traditional at Hægefjell
4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.
4 Hægefjell Traditional 2010-09-05
On-sight
On-sight
Mot Sola
6a Traditional at Hægefjell
6a+/355m/9 pitches -- great route with great cracks
6a+ (6a) Hægefjell Traditional 2010-09-04
On-sight
On-sight
Forsida
5 Traditional at Svolværgeita
5/128m/4 pitches -- superb route up the Svolvaergaita...climbed it with Peter & just led the last pitch to the summit when there came a huge thunderstorm & i got quite wet at the hang-belay on the top...no jump this time :)
5 Svolværgeita Traditional 2010-08-30
On-sight
On-sight
Svenske diedret
6b+ Traditional at Paradiset
6b+/22m -- very technical climbing up a dihedral...was belaying Niki at the first try, so no on-sight, but Ben did it solo later :)
6b+ Paradiset Traditional 2010-08-28
Flash
Flash
Dosethrisset
6c+ Traditional at Paradiset
6c+/14m -- excellent finger-locks up a steep crack with some technical metres at the end
6c+ Paradiset Traditional 2010-08-28
Flash
Flash
Vågarisset
6c Traditional at Paradiset
6+ (Norvegean Grade), 70m, 2 pitches ...awesome huge crack in a blank wall high on "Vågakallen". You can easily see the route from the camp at "Paradiset", but the approach up there is really though (we called it vegetation-climbing in the 6th grade)... Peter climbed the first pitch (6a+/25m) which is a corner followed by a small roof and some vertical metres with great hand & fist-jamming. I led the huge second pitch (6b/45m) along the off-width, but didn't red-point it because it felt much much harder, about 6c/7a in my opinion (so i choose top-rope as ascent type)...at the platform after the crack we stopped, because the Lofoten guide-book didn't have any information about the next pitches...but it should be possible to continue i guess :)
6c Paradiset Traditional 2010-08-27
Top rope
Top rope
Jesus
5+ Traditional at Paradiset
5+/14m -- nice trad-pitch up a huge beach-boulder...next time solo :)
5+ Paradiset Traditional 2010-08-26
On-sight
On-sight
Vårkåt
6c+ Traditional at The Coast
6c+/135m/4 pitches (6b+/6b/6c+/4) -- hard & sustained climbing up the steep Jonfru Pillaren... climbed it with Tom & Niki on a real windy day: i led pitch 1 (piaz, finger crack & traverse), Niki pitch 2 (groove, off-width, overhang & hand-jams, probably 7a) & Tom pitch 3 (slab with fine cracks & a super-steep handcrack at the end)...pitch 4 is easy, but we were really distroyed on the top :)
6c+ The Coast Traditional 2010-08-25
On-sight
On-sight
Fire forsøk
6b+ Traditional at Festvåg
6b+/~80m/3 pitches -- nice route with a steep finger & hand crack at pitch 3.
6b+ Festvåg Traditional 2010-08-23
On-sight
On-sight
Lundeklubben
6a+ Traditional at Festvåg
6a+/~90m/3 pitches (5+/6a+/5) -- funny route which goes up nice corners, then a little roof at pitch 2 & zig-zag-cracks at pitch 3.
6a+ Festvåg Traditional 2010-08-20
On-sight
On-sight
Skiløperen
6a Traditional at Festvåg
6a/30m -- really futuristic crack up a steep wall...looks much harder than it is, lots off face-holds :)
6a Festvåg Traditional 2010-08-20
On-sight
On-sight
Vestpillaren
6b Traditional at Presten
6b/~460m/11-12 pitches -- incredible route on Presten...a real voyage, especially the "Slannting Corner" pitch is good as hell. climbed it with Tom (we changed lead at every pitch) in about 7 hours (we started at 1 pm)...you never have stress with the time there in summer, so we made lots off smoking-breaks ;)
6b Presten Traditional 2010-08-19
On-sight
On-sight
Gandalf
5 Traditional at Gandalf
4+ (or ~6b at pitch no.3)/100m/3 pitches -- nice & easy route up the Gandalfveggen, at pitch 3 you can directly climb trough the tricky "eagle-nest-roof" to make it a little more difficult :)
6b (5) Gandalf Traditional 2010-08-18
On-sight
On-sight
Gamle rev
6a+ Traditional at Gandalf
6b/95m/2 pitches -- two really good pitches (6b & 6a) up the Gandalfveggen. climbed it with Tom & abseiled on a huge 100m fixed rope...let's do another route :)
6b (6a+) Gandalf Traditional 2010-08-18
On-sight
On-sight
Bare blåbær
4 Traditional at Djupfjord
4/236m/7 pitches -- nice warm-up route with everything you need: corners, finger & hand cracks, flakes...should be great to climb it solo, but you also would have to down-climb it....climbed it with Tom together with Peter & Gabriel, the approach through Djupfjord is beautiful as well & you find lots off blueberries :)
4+ (4) Djupfjord Traditional 2010-08-17
On-sight
On-sight
Alkotest
7a Sport at Eggum
tricky slab at the beginning, then nice dyno at the crux
7a+ (7a) Eggum Sport 2010-08-16
Red point
Red point
Lille vakre Anna
6c Sport at Eggum
overhanging, short & funny
6c Eggum Sport 2010-08-14
Red point
Red point
Panzerdivision Marduk
7b Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
it was a hard fight :)
7b Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2010-07-30
Red point
Red point
Wadi Rum
6c+ Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
short, good pockets & overhanging
6c+ Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2010-03-04
Red point
Red point
Das letzte Einhorn
6b Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
short & funny route
6b Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2009-06-22
Flash
Flash
Schwänzeltanz
6c Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
technical slab
6c Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2009-06-22
Red point
Red point
Griff Quiz
6c Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
starts with some hard piaz-boulder-moves and finishes up through a nice corner
6c Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2009-06-21
Red point
Red point
Schattenriss (Sechsplosion)
6c Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
a classic...the first route at Ewige Jagdgründe...2nd try
6b+ (6c) Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2009-06-21
Red point
Red point
Indianerdachl
7a Sport at Ewige Jagdgründe
crux through the roof
6c (7a) Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 2009-06-21
Red point
Red point
Moonfog
6b+ Sport at Scheiblingskirchen
short, good holds & overhanging
6b+ Scheiblingskirchen Sport 2009-05-05
Red point
Red point