![Matthias Lang](https://27crags.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/000/054/54126/size_s-3ccad5c644b4.jpg)
Matthias Lang
lives in México D.F. — has visited and listed 75 crags in 10 countries
Followers
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Following
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Ascents
Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Grade
Gr.
|
Total
Tot
|
On-sight
On
|
Flash
Fl
|
Red point
Re
|
Top rope
To
|
Diagram | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7c | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | |||||
7b+ | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | 0 |
|
||||
7b | 3 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 0 |
|
||||
7a+ | 7 | 1 | 0 | 6 | 0 |
|
||||
7a | 4 | 0 | 1 | 3 | 0 |
|
||||
6c+ | 13 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 0 |
|
||||
6c | 17 | 7 | 0 | 8 | 2 |
|
||||
6b+ | 10 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 0 |
|
||||
6b | 20 | 14 | 5 | 1 | 0 |
|
||||
6a+ | 19 | 15 | 2 | 2 | 0 |
|
||||
6a | 11 | 9 | 2 | 0 | 0 |
|
||||
5+ | 8 | 7 | 1 | 0 | 0 |
|
||||
5 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 0 | 0 |
|
||||
4+ | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | |||||
4 | 2 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
|
||||
3+ | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
Ascents
Route | Grade | Crag | Type | Ascent date | Ascent type |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
overhanging start with jugs, then passage with crimps and to the top. managed to recover by BREATHING at the end hahaha ;)
|
650
6c+
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2014-03-02
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
5+
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
warm-up on pockets
|
380
5+
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2014-03-02
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
great dihedral to stem up, at the end pumpy traverse to the left...awesome doing sport-climbing in austria in march!!! next time "midian direkt"!!!
|
550
6c
(6b+)
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2014-03-02
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice boulder on crimps at the beginning, then beautiful moves on good holds to the top
|
600
6c
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2014-01-08
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
7a
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice boulder up the first 3 quick-draws, then a beautiful & balancy arete and two easy roofs at the end...FLASH!!! :)
|
700
7a
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2014-01-08
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice warm-up route with chimney, crimps and pockets
|
500
6b
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2014-01-08
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
Los Remedios
awesome 20 metres of dihedral-climbing with nearly no holds and a lot of hard steming and crazy foot-positions, then the really intimitating roof which you climb up using a brutal lay-back-finger-crack followed by a strange mantle...my first 5.12a ONSIGHT!!! What a day :)
|
750
7a+
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2014-01-08
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Presa Francisco Zarco
awesome long & sustainted route with lovely holds
|
500
6b
|
Presa Francisco Zarco | Sport |
2013-12-21
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
5
Sport
at
Presa Francisco Zarco
perfect, long warm-up on perfect lime-stone
|
300
5
|
Presa Francisco Zarco | Sport |
2013-12-21
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
Presa Francisco Zarco
nice vertical route with a complicated crux on tiny incut-limestone-crimps
|
550
6b+
|
Presa Francisco Zarco | Sport |
2013-12-21
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Guadalcazar
long, lovely & sustainted route with goes up 35 metres. the first half you climb overhanging stalactites to a good rest and then more vertical and technical climb on tufas up to the chains
|
650
6c+
|
Guadalcazar | Sport |
2013-08-25
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
Guadalcazar
steep, overhanging & pumpy climb on stalactites with a crux on perfect crimps at the end and a really hard position to clip the chains...at left entrance of Cueva San Cayetano/3rd try
|
750
7a+
|
Guadalcazar | Sport |
2013-08-24
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Guadalcazar
nice climb on tufas...short, funny and not too steep, actually the easiest route (the only 5.10) at Cueva de San Cayetano
|
500
6b
|
Guadalcazar | Sport |
2013-08-24
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
2nd try (but should have been a flash)...nice short, overhanging route with a bouldery crux --> good sideholds plus a heelhook, then a huge move, then but your feet up and catch a tiny, bad crimp and from there a fast move to a good incut, then clip and keep it together to the chains.
|
750
7a+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-08-15
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
5+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
nice warm-up on great holds
|
380
5+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-08-15
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
awesome route...long and sustainted with one sweet crux where you have to crimp a small sidehold
|
550
6b+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-08-15
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice warm-up climb about 20 meters up the beautiful arete, then a good rest to finally conquer the big roof with some huge bouldery moves
|
650
6c+
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-08-09
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice vertical slab with great pockets and 2 easy overhangs at the top
|
500
6b
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-08-09
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
Los Remedios
some hard moves on crimps and 1-finger-pockets, then good rest, again hard moves + good rest...and so on :)
|
600
6c
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-08-09
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
nice corner
|
450
6a+
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-08-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
scary climb up the first quick-draw...then keeping it together with a bad crimps and an undercling
|
600
6c
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-08-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
nice finger crack then crux with a bad crimp
|
600
6c
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-08-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
crux up to the first quick-draw
|
500
6a
(6b)
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-08-07
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
fiesta de crimps
|
600
6b+
(6c)
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-08-07
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
5+
Sport
at
Peña de Bernal
5.10a; nice free-solo on this great route following a good crack up "el capitán calzón"
|
380
5+
|
Peña de Bernal | Sport |
2013-08-02
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice vertical climb on great holds...then a mental runout from the last bolt to the chains
|
500
6b
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-07-28
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
7b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
2nd try...a short, bouldery route just about 8 metres high...still it's got beautiful moves on crimps, under-clings, slopers and a huge dyno to a pocket-jug to leave the roof :)
|
800
7b
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2013-07-09
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
my first 3 bolts in my life, thank's a lot urs for teaching me!!! nice, vertical warm-up-route at "La Cueva de Chipilin"/Cuarto y Medio Dinamo :)
|
500
6b
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2013-06-29
FA
On-sight
|
FA On-sight |
![]()
7b+
Sport
at
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente
chingónnn, just an amazing route...my mexican project at my 4th session in "la cueva" finally came to an end!!!
first you start through a funny overhang with beautiful sustained moves for the first 4 quickdraws trying not to get pumped...and then starts the crux-section for the next 2 quick-draw with some huge horizontal movements where you have to keep it together and make all kind of wired hooks, finally at the end you have to push really hard along a steep crack up to the chains, screaming included :)
|
850
7b+
|
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente | Sport |
2013-02-26
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Los Remedios
one of the most beautiful pocket-routes!!! long and sustained, really fun!!!
|
450
6a+
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-02-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice little slab for warm-up...jaja route no.1 in the guide-book
|
450
6a+
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-02-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Los Remedios
nice little overhang at the start, then nice slab-climbing and a technical finish up to the chains (with quite bad rock, so cat-mode!!!)
|
650
6c+
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-02-20
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Los Remedios
great start with huge jugs...then the crux along a crimp-rail and some pockets
|
500
6b
|
Los Remedios | Sport |
2013-02-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente
nice short route at the entrance of "the cave"...technical climbing on crimps and pocket with the crux right before the chains...2nd try (however i have to confess that i grapped the chains for clipping)...
|
750
7a+
|
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente | Sport |
2013-01-27
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
Jilotepec
same start like "el chaneque" but easier finish
|
600
6c
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-01-24
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
5+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
soloing a nice chimney to get on the top of the spire (el pilar)...niiice view of the Peñas de Dexcani from above :)
|
380
5+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-01-24
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
one of the BEST routes in Jilo...4th try...starts with a cool V3-boulder to the first quick-draw, followed by a no-hand-rest on a ledge. then you climb up a steep, slightly overhanging dark wall with nobs until you get to a huge rail (actually this is a huuuge embedded pebble). from here starts the crux (aprox. a V4-boulder) where you have to crimp hard, put your foot up high and continiue crimping up to the next good rail. then just keeping it together with awesome slab-climbing on nobs to the chains...a masterpiece (i would give more than 3 stars)...now syced for "El Nahual"!!!
|
750
7a+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2013-01-24
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
7a+
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
THE line at 1° Dinamo, an amazing route through the big roof...little bouldery start with a tricky mantle, then a good rest before you climb up a roof-crack and finish with some great big movements to the chains...2nd go, could have flashed it without 2 weeks of pause before, haha ;)
|
750
7a+
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2013-01-07
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
7b
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
perfect short boulder-route...easy overhanging- climbing up the first 3 quick-draws and then starts the action:
cross to a good crimp and match another crimp with you left hand, move your foots up high and make a heel-hook in a hole, then a big move with your right to a bad crimp, match a 2-finger-side-crimp with your left hand, remove the hook and make a short dead-point move with right to the good crimp, then clip the 4th quick-draw and just keeping it together to the top :)
unfortunately the first 2 bolt are very bad (never felt there, but i'm gonna change them), but the 3rd bolt where you have your whippers is ok!
|
800
7b
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-12-15
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente
nice little warm-up route at this impressive huge cave...now psyched for "Trauma" 5.13a
|
550
6b+
|
El Arenal - La Cueva Del Penitente | Sport |
2012-12-13
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a+
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos
first you climb a slam roof with a finger-crack, then easily up to an awesome steep hand-crack...but if you don't carry the correct gear you have to change left and climb a horrible chimney up to the anker :)
|
450
6b+
(6a+)
|
Los Dinamos | Traditional |
2012-12-08
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6a+
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos
nice long trad-route, actually did the first 2 pitches together...first pitch you climb a perfect paralello-hand-crack to a platform...then follow a finger-crack which you can climb like a chimney with the help of a big flake...then another platform and you fight up the last metres through an anyoning off-width :)
|
450
6b
(6a+)
|
Los Dinamos | Traditional |
2012-12-08
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
the line which first catches the eye at Primer Dinamo...a big roof with nice movements on good holds...haha, unfortunately just 2nd go...had a big fail at my flash-try falling just under the anker, getting pumped & not seeing anything because of the sun)...100% kremstal-style ;)
|
650
6c+
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-11-29
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
scary start...then a bit of endurance at the slab
|
600
6c
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-11-29
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
quite hard boulder up the first bolt...then following up the crack is just a dream...did it 2 times :)
|
650
6c+
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-11-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
nice little route with a funny boulder-start and another little overhang below the anker
|
550
6b+
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-11-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Jilotepec
nice complicated start up the first 3 quick-draws...then relaxed climbing
|
500
6b
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2012-11-11
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
2nd try...technical steep slab-climbing with great crimps
|
650
6c+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2012-11-11
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
2nd try...nice technical slab with bad crimps and a dynmic move
|
600
6c
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-11-04
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
2nd try...the roof some metres to the right of "Valientes"...some funny moves up a corner-crack followed by some campusing along the roof :)
|
600
6c
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-11-04
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
nice little route with a funny crux at the beginning...some metres left of "Valientes"
|
500
6b
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-11-04
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Jilotepec
nice long route on great conglomerate-rock with funny holds & good rests
|
500
6b
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2012-10-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
2nd try, nearly could have done an on-sight. incredible vertical-slightly overhanging route with sharp crimps
|
650
6c+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2012-10-20
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c+
Sport
at
Jilotepec
boulder-start to the first quick-draw followed by technical slab-climbing
|
650
6c+
|
Jilotepec | Sport |
2012-10-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
the left variation of this beautiful roof...pretty much the same difficulty like the right-one & equally beautiful
|
500
6b+
(6b)
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-10-16
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
another go on this incredible short-route
|
500
6b+
(6b)
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-10-16
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6c
Sport
at
Hoyanco Chonta
crazy route...25 metres through overhanging stalactites. had a really good on-sight-go to the last quick-draw, but sent it the next day easily :)
|
600
6c
|
Hoyanco Chonta | Sport |
2012-09-23
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Hoyanco Chonta
the only vertical and easy route at "La Chonta"...fine crux at beginning on slopers followed by a really long route
|
450
6a+
|
Hoyanco Chonta | Sport |
2012-09-22
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
another nice doble-crack
|
400
6a
|
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo | Traditional |
2012-09-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
great route with some metre on a fingercrack
|
450
6a+
|
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo | Traditional |
2012-09-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
tecnical start on a slab (not easy to protect) followed by crack & chimney climbing
|
500
6b
|
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo | Traditional |
2012-09-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Traditional
at
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo
nice crack climbing and a really long pitch...we had to improvise the rappel with our 50m-rope to gain the ground
|
450
6a+
|
Los Dinamos - 4° Dinamo | Traditional |
2012-09-07
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
long route up a slab
|
450
6a+
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-08-25
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a
Sport
at
Los Dinamos
nice route on a exposed pillar
|
400
6a
|
Los Dinamos | Sport |
2012-08-25
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
don't know the name of the route yet.
nice slap with perfect crimps & pockets, at the crux you have to pull on a one-finger-pocket :)
|
450
6a+
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-08-05
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
don't know the name of the route yet.
nice technical slab to gain a beautiful corner...
|
400
6a
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-08-05
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria
just an awesome route through an impressive roof...easy start, then with an undercling and a sloper you catch the edge of the roof and make some (campus)-moves to the top...really boulder-like & looks much harder than the grade :)
|
500
6b
|
La Escuelita - Ciudad Universitaria | Sport |
2012-08-05
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a
Sport
at
Zigeunerloch
easy warm-up, my first climb at beautiful zigeunerloch...failed later trying to flash "mini-cooper" during rain ;)
|
400
6a
|
Zigeunerloch | Sport |
2012-06-11
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
5+
Traditional
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
nice long route (30m) with many many cracks up the "Wig"...clean climbing again :)
|
380
5+
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Traditional |
2012-05-28
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
nice paralello-crack climbed with 2 friends...unfortunately bolted & just 10m high ;)
|
450
5+
(6a+)
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2012-05-28
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
again pooockets
|
450
6a+
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
tall moves on good pockets
|
500
6b
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
nice long route up a flake + pockets ;)
|
450
6a+
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
long route on pockets
|
400
6a
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6a+
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
long steep route on pockets
|
450
6a+
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
![]()
6a
Sport
at
Scheiblingkirchen
nice wall with pooockets
|
400
6a
|
Scheiblingkirchen | Sport |
2012-04-20
Flash
|
Flash |
![]()
6b+
Sport
at
Maltatal
beautiful sustainted route with amazing rock...
|
550
6b+
|
Maltatal | Sport |
2012-04-11
Red point
|
Red point |
![]()
6b
Sport
at
Maltatal
nice & short route...using the new rope for the first time
|
500
6b
|
Maltatal | Sport |
2012-04-10
Red point
|
Red point |
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7a+
Sport
at
Suesca
some metres to the right from "Los Gnomos", don't know the name & grade...technical wall climbing on under-clings up to an arete...from there a scary (a moving bolt) & pumpy (overhanging with heel-hooking-action) traverse to the top...
|
750
7a+
|
Suesca | Sport |
2011-09-04
Red point
|
Red point |
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7a
Sport
at
Suesca
nice route!!! hard wall-climbing up to the 4th quick-draw...then easy metres to the top on really bizzare rock :)
|
700
7a
|
Suesca | Sport |
2011-09-04
Red point
|
Red point |
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5+
Traditional
at
Suesca
funny, short roofcrack, which you protect with 2-3 friends...looked much harder than it was :)
|
380
5+
|
Suesca | Traditional |
2011-09-04
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b
Sport
at
Huatluckn
just a unspectacular warm-up-route, at least a flash ;)
|
500
6b
|
Huatluckn | Sport |
2011-06-19
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6c
Sport
at
Schatzinsel
pockets and more pockets ;)
|
600
6c
|
Schatzinsel | Sport |
2011-06-06
Red point
|
Red point |
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6c+
Sport
at
Schatzinsel
great line up a blue sinter
|
650
6c+
|
Schatzinsel | Sport |
2011-06-06
Red point
|
Red point |
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6a+
Sport
at
Schatzinsel
funny, but wet
|
450
6a+
|
Schatzinsel | Sport |
2011-06-06
Red point
|
Red point |
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6b
Traditional
at
clean up Val Masino
great diagonal crack on the backside of Sasso de Remenno
|
500
6b
|
clean up Val Masino | Traditional |
2011-05-06
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a+
Traditional
at
Mello multi pitch
6a+/~410m/10 pitches -- really nice alpine-route at "Dimore degli Dei" wall. climbed it together with Ben & led all the pitches...Pitch 2 is already the crux-pitch (7-/40m) and at pitch 3 you have an endless beautiful crack (6+/40m)...then you follow up a huge corner, make a slab-traverse before you climb the exposed last pitches
|
450
6a+
|
Mello multi pitch | Traditional |
2011-05-03
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b+
Traditional
at
Sergent Area
3 pitches, 90m, 6b+
THE eyecatcher on "Sergent-Wall", 3 pitches of desperately off-width climbing on a huge left-winding crack ;)
...climbed it together with Strong-Tom, on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 1 & no. 3.
Pitch 1 is a good warm-up with a no-hand-position in the middle. Pitch 2 starting with a though vertical corner, followed by traversing the left-winding off-width. At pitch 3 you climb up vertical again and then squeeze inside the crack when it starts again to go left to the abseil-platform.
|
550
6b+
|
Sergent Area | Traditional |
2011-04-26
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a
Traditional
at
Sergent Area
great pitch along a superb parallelo-crack
|
400
6a
|
Sergent Area | Traditional |
2011-04-25
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6c
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
15 pitches, 450m, E.D. Inf. climbed free ;)
THE route on the Jebel Rum East Face which catches the eye, great & epic!!! hard cracks, corners & off-widths at the beginning of the centre-wall. Originally parts were climbed with aid, especially pitch 5 (6c) is really serious with poor protection when climbed free.
Niki, Peter & me climbed it together, i red-pointed all the pitches + led no. 5 (the serious crux-pitch), 6, 12 & 13 :)
The middlepart is scary too with slabs, poor protection & loose rock.
The headwall is climbed by winding left to the "Fire-Exit-Chimneys", where you're just very deep inside Jebel Rum ;)
Then you get out of it and can look down throught the "Eye of Allah", where originally starts the abseiling.
we then had a scary abseiling through the night and unknown terrain :)
|
600
7a
(6c)
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-27
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6b/~350m/7-8 pitches (4/6a/6b/6a/6a/6b/6a/4)
"If you like crack-climbing, do Lionheart!" (some Czech-climbers)
...great line along some crack & corner-systems up the Abu Aina Towers, really sustainted and hard for the grade...
climbed it together with Niki & Peter, onsighted all the pitches & led no. 1, 2 & 3.
In Pitch 1 & 2 (4 & 6a) you climb up a good chimney and you can do them in one pitch.
Pitch 3 (6b/~45m) is a kingline, first you have great finger-locks up a crack in a corner, then climb up chimney (where you can stay until the end of the pitch) and then change to a really exposed arete. I think the best pitch i've ever led.
Pitch 4 (6a) has a slightly overhanging wide crack (camelot no.4) which seemed much harder than 6a for me and then a slab. Pitch 5 (6a) is just an endless corner with perfect jams to get at another chimney at pitch 6 (6b) from where you finallely traverse to the headwall for exposed slab-climbing at pitch 7 (6a) and an easy last pitch (4) to gain the top of the Abu-Aina-Towers...
Just an awesome route!!!
|
500
6b+
(6b)
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-24
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6a/~100m/3 pitches (5/5+/6a)
a really nice line which we found when we were soloing "Sabbah's Route" to get to the South Summit of Jebel Khush Khashah.
We came back the next day & just tried to climb it.
Pitch 1 (5) is a dirty off-width & chimney, pitch 2 (5+) goes up a scary vertical mushroom-wall, so there's a lot off loose rock and bad protection. Then you make stance in a little cave from where you start for pitch 3 (6a), an amazing blank corner with a parallel crack with lots off good hand & fist jams.
Climbed it together with Niki, we onsighted all the pitches, he led no. 1 & 3, i led no. 2.
|
400
6a
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-21
FA
On-sight
|
FA On-sight |
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6a+
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6a+/~150m/5 pitches (5+/6a/6a+/5+/5)
incredible steep crack-line with perfect protection and lots off face-holds.
Climbed it together with Madhou (who led his first trad-lead) & led all the pitches except pitch 1.
|
450
6a+
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-16
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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5
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
5/~100m/3 pitches (?)
an obvious climb up the Arche Tower from the Remy-brothers, so it's adventureous & scary ;)
we just climbed the first pitch (5/corner) but then didn't know how to continue...the abseil was confusing & dangerous too ;)
|
300
5
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-15
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6c
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6c/~100m/3 pitches (6a+/6c/6a)
a HUGE corner at Jebel Kharazeh...sustainted & pumpy climbing at pitch 1 to a good ledge. Pitch 2 (6c/35-40m) goes up further the corner but the crack is really fine & the walls are blank.
Climbed it together with Peter & Madhou but didn't red-point pitch 2, where i had a huge 8-metres-whipper only held by a 0.3 camelot ;)
|
600
6c
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-14
Top rope
|
Top rope |
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6b
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6b/~180m/5 pitches (5+/6b/5/5-/6a+)
5 fine pitches at the Jebel Rum East Face, pitch 2 (6b/crack with the crux at the end) and pitch 5 (6a+/up a fine flake) are the best...
climbed it together with Peter & Madhou (his first trad-route), on-sighted all the pitches & led no. 2,3 & 4.
|
500
6b
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-13
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
6a/~200m/5 pitches
The name says it all!!! just a unique route up the west-face of Jebel um Ejil.
Climbed it together with Peter & led pitch no. 1, 3 & 5. At pitch 5 (incredible off-width) you normally get nice afternoon-sun and the following two pitches (4+ & 2/3) to the top you can easily solo ;)
|
400
6a
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-12
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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5+
Traditional
at
Wadi Rum
5c/~120m/3 or 4 pitches
really nice warm-up route on Jebel Rum east-face to get used to the rock & the style of climbing...
climbed it together with Peter and led pitch no. 2 (5c/40m) where you climb up a fine corner and than change to a nice finger-crack and follow this to a platform. That's the "Goldfinger"--> great pitch!!!
|
380
5+
|
Wadi Rum | Traditional |
2011-02-11
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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4
Traditional
at
Hægefjell
4/~350m/free-solo -- impressive experience...great long route up a logical crack-system...did it two times free-solo, the first time in about 40 min., the second time in about 30 min.
|
200
4
|
Hægefjell | Traditional |
2010-09-05
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a
Traditional
at
Hægefjell
6a+/355m/9 pitches -- great route with great cracks
|
400
6a+
(6a)
|
Hægefjell | Traditional |
2010-09-04
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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5
Traditional
at
Svolværgeita
5/128m/4 pitches -- superb route up the Svolvaergaita...climbed it with Peter & just led the last pitch to the summit when there came a huge thunderstorm & i got quite wet at the hang-belay on the top...no jump this time :)
|
300
5
|
Svolværgeita | Traditional |
2010-08-30
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b+
Traditional
at
Paradiset
6b+/22m -- very technical climbing up a dihedral...was belaying Niki at the first try, so no on-sight, but Ben did it solo later :)
|
550
6b+
|
Paradiset | Traditional |
2010-08-28
Flash
|
Flash |
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6c+
Traditional
at
Paradiset
6c+/14m -- excellent finger-locks up a steep crack with some technical metres at the end
|
650
6c+
|
Paradiset | Traditional |
2010-08-28
Flash
|
Flash |
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6c
Traditional
at
Paradiset
6+ (Norvegean Grade), 70m, 2 pitches
...awesome huge crack in a blank wall high on "Vågakallen". You can easily see the route from the camp at "Paradiset", but the approach up there is really though (we called it vegetation-climbing in the 6th grade)...
Peter climbed the first pitch (6a+/25m) which is a corner followed by a small roof and some vertical metres with great hand & fist-jamming. I led the huge second pitch (6b/45m) along the off-width, but didn't red-point it because it felt much much harder, about 6c/7a in my opinion (so i choose top-rope as ascent type)...at the platform after the crack we stopped, because the Lofoten guide-book didn't have any information about the next pitches...but it should be possible to continue i guess :)
|
600
6c
|
Paradiset | Traditional |
2010-08-27
Top rope
|
Top rope |
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5+
Traditional
at
Paradiset
5+/14m -- nice trad-pitch up a huge beach-boulder...next time solo :)
|
380
5+
|
Paradiset | Traditional |
2010-08-26
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6c+
Traditional
at
The Coast
6c+/135m/4 pitches (6b+/6b/6c+/4) -- hard & sustained climbing up the steep Jonfru Pillaren... climbed it with Tom & Niki on a real windy day: i led pitch 1 (piaz, finger crack & traverse), Niki pitch 2 (groove, off-width, overhang & hand-jams, probably 7a) & Tom pitch 3 (slab with fine cracks & a super-steep handcrack at the end)...pitch 4 is easy, but we were really distroyed on the top :)
|
650
6c+
|
The Coast | Traditional |
2010-08-25
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b+
Traditional
at
Festvåg
6b+/~80m/3 pitches -- nice route with a steep finger & hand crack at pitch 3.
|
550
6b+
|
Festvåg | Traditional |
2010-08-23
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a+
Traditional
at
Festvåg
6a+/~90m/3 pitches (5+/6a+/5) -- funny route which goes up nice corners, then a little roof at pitch 2 & zig-zag-cracks at pitch 3.
|
450
6a+
|
Festvåg | Traditional |
2010-08-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a
Traditional
at
Festvåg
6a/30m -- really futuristic crack up a steep wall...looks much harder than it is, lots off face-holds :)
|
400
6a
|
Festvåg | Traditional |
2010-08-20
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6b
Traditional
at
Presten
6b/~460m/11-12 pitches --
incredible route on Presten...a real voyage, especially the "Slannting Corner" pitch is good as hell.
climbed it with Tom (we changed lead at every pitch) in about 7 hours (we started at 1 pm)...you never have stress with the time there in summer, so we made lots off smoking-breaks ;)
|
500
6b
|
Presten | Traditional |
2010-08-19
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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5
Traditional
at
Gandalf
4+ (or ~6b at pitch no.3)/100m/3 pitches -- nice & easy route up the Gandalfveggen, at pitch 3 you can directly climb trough the tricky "eagle-nest-roof" to make it a little more difficult :)
|
300
6b
(5)
|
Gandalf | Traditional |
2010-08-18
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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6a+
Traditional
at
Gandalf
6b/95m/2 pitches -- two really good pitches (6b & 6a) up the Gandalfveggen. climbed it with Tom & abseiled on a huge 100m fixed rope...let's do another route :)
|
450
6b
(6a+)
|
Gandalf | Traditional |
2010-08-18
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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4
Traditional
at
Djupfjord
4/236m/7 pitches -- nice warm-up route with everything you need: corners, finger & hand cracks, flakes...should be great to climb it solo, but you also would have to down-climb it....climbed it with Tom together with Peter & Gabriel, the approach through Djupfjord is beautiful as well & you find lots off blueberries :)
|
200
4+
(4)
|
Djupfjord | Traditional |
2010-08-17
On-sight
|
On-sight |
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7a
Sport
at
Eggum
tricky slab at the beginning, then nice dyno at the crux
|
700
7a+
(7a)
|
Eggum | Sport |
2010-08-16
Red point
|
Red point |
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6c
Sport
at
Eggum
overhanging, short & funny
|
600
6c
|
Eggum | Sport |
2010-08-14
Red point
|
Red point |
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7b
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
it was a hard fight :)
|
800
7b
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2010-07-30
Red point
|
Red point |
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6c+
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
short, good pockets & overhanging
|
650
6c+
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2010-03-04
Red point
|
Red point |
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6b
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
short & funny route
|
500
6b
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2009-06-22
Flash
|
Flash |
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6c
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
technical slab
|
600
6c
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2009-06-22
Red point
|
Red point |
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6c
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
starts with some hard piaz-boulder-moves and finishes up through a nice corner
|
600
6c
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2009-06-21
Red point
|
Red point |
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6c
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
a classic...the first route at Ewige Jagdgründe...2nd try
|
600
6b+
(6c)
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2009-06-21
Red point
|
Red point |
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7a
Sport
at
Ewige Jagdgründe
crux through the roof
|
700
6c
(7a)
|
Ewige Jagdgründe | Sport |
2009-06-21
Red point
|
Red point |
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6b+
Sport
at
Scheiblingskirchen
short, good holds & overhanging
|
550
6b+
|
Scheiblingskirchen | Sport |
2009-05-05
Red point
|
Red point |