Tobias Karlsson

Old project that was bolted in 2007 by Jens Larsen, I added an anchor on the ledge which felt like the most natural ending and tried it briefly in 2022. Tried it a lot during the autumn 2023 since it was a great challenge without hard right hand crimps during my year of pulley surgery reconstruction. Managed to climb it to the top during the first crisp autumn days in 2024. The SBH intro is not hard except for the tricky first small roof, but still it drains more energy than you expect due to the steepness. From the anchor of SBH a short boulder which requires shoulders of steel with my beta. Then a brief rest before the meat of the route begins with a sustained powerful boulder with technical body positioning where each move does not seem too bad at first but still managed to be big challange to link from the ground. One of the coolest sequences I have done where you need to use many tools from the toolbox. Outro mantle problem onto the ledge which is much easier but fallable once the pump starts to hit you. I loved projecting it. Regarding the difficulty I am very uncertain. I spent much more time on it than on Captain Caveman, and I think the style suits me well on both. On the other hand many sessions were spent before finding the beta that was used in the end and many short sessions after work in non-ideal conditions and coming back from injury. I have also not tried it with anyone else. I am a decent jammer but not expert level and there are possibly some expert level jams that could change how it is climbed.The conditions are also a bit tricky since the holds in the crux are always mostly dry, but almost always humid. Very happy to have opened up another great difficult line in the cave :)

Up to the first anchor. Several bouldery sections separated by good rests. See my comment on the full line for more details.

If you are up for an adventure! Sustained climbing all the way with many small boulders separated by good rests but the length of the climb still drains you. A surprisingly steep final part with 40 meters of air below your feet and more pumpy than anticipated even if the holds are all ok. The rock quality is not great. Spent many hours cleaning it, focusing on doing my best to remove all possibilities of dangerous loose rock, which I still of course can't guarantee, so the belayer should pay attention and wear a helmet. There are still many crusty patches where you might place your foot and feel it crumble under your sticky rubber and some handholds that are still a bit dirty/sandy. But I think the foundation of the rock is good and solid so when/if it sees some traffic I think it will improve. Some bolt placements also had to be placed in the most solid rock, and thus not necessarily in the optimal clipping positions. Good to use some extended quickdraws, especially below the first small roof. I think I used 22 quickdraws and a 100 m rope, with a shorter rope you can rethread in the first anchor.

Cool boulder at the first overhang with a unusual shoulder press that is more spectacular than hard. Easier section and a good rest followed by the crux which is powerful and technical. Good holds by the last bolt from which it gets easier again. The rock is really good in this part of the wall. Some holds close to the chossy dihedral to the left felt a bit suspicuos and may come off, but it should not change the climb since they are only used for the easier middle section. Regarding the difficulty, it took me one evening session to find the beta and then I did it on the first attempt the evening after. I think my solution for the crux suits me well. Felt similar to Analyse and Neo 8b in Granitgrottan which are somewhat similar in style. But I could also see some people finding it easier or harder because the hard part is short and very specific. I am happy to hear what future repeaters think :)

Good dynamic move. I don't know about the grade. Sit start project seems possible but very hard (>=8B?).

Really good crimpendurance 7c-ish into a distinct crimpy boulder by the last bolt. I think it is 8a if you go straight up by the final crux. A right variation is possible to avoid the crux.

Stopped by the first bolt due to dangerously loose big block. Could pull it out with a few body weight pulls. Then continued to the top. Lots of praise to everyone who contributes with bolting and opening new routes. I think that it is not the best approach to bolt and FA routes and leave the removal of obviously loose blocks to the future climbers. That being said, I think Korpekullen has a lot more to offer with appropriate cleaning job, even if the rock quality is not the best.

Could not feel my feet or hands for most of the route which made a great route an unpleasant experience.

Good climbing but a bit suspicously loose. Somewhat spaced bolting at a few places.

I think it was just as good as the left neighbour. Less bouldery but a bit more technically demanding.

Very good on the seemingly best wall of the quarry. Had a fun os-attempt where it started to pour down rain about 1/3 up the route. Challenge accepted, I imagined myself training for climbing some wet alpine route. Fell on the final boulder which was thin.

Felt a bit challenging to protect the somewhat thin start.

As good as promised. Wide fingercrack. Hesitated too much just after the crux, on the os. Felt like a 7c effort to me, but I have no clue about crack grades. Great day with Andreas.

Long and adventurous. Airy and challenging final part on sloping handjams.

Really good and varied on bomber rock. Climbed in the sunset light, beautiful.

Beautiful line and rock. One hard crimp move which I didn't dare to commit to with healing reconstructed pulleys.

Beautiful

With Moritz. Did as two pitches. Upper dihedral part was the best part.

Challenging crux! Used a proper fist-jam.

Varied on great rock!

Very good delicate slab.

No handholds. Precise dynamic move to get established with foot in the crack.

Beautiful

Very low but nice moves.

The day before double pulley reconstruction by Dr Shöffl in Bamberg. Mine and Agnes brief surgery-trip to Frankenjura.

Wolfgang ftw

Delicate middle section.

Thought it would be a good ticklist tactic to send Laroy now when I had the beta dialed for everything but the upper easier section where it veers right from Caveman. Practiced the upper part once. Made an attempt from the ground, but the Leroy part was soaking wet, thought it was ggwp. Thought I should at least make one more A Muerte go, for fun. Somehow made it through Leroy in the wettest state to date. Knee pads, shoes, hands, chalk bag were all moist and I was sure I would not make it through the boulder crux by the anchor of Leroy. Somehow I did and found myself resting before the supposedly easy upper part. I had only checked the beta once, all the cracks were moist and was very fatigued, so I was not sure at all I would make it. Went reasonably smooth up until the last 5 meters where I was very close to falling even if the section is no more than a 6B boulder. I was completely out of gas in the forearms. At the most critical moment I desperately farmed a crimp with knuckles because the fingers were not working anymore. It was everything but beautiful. Anyway, I made it to the anchor and it was a great feeling after a great fight.

Technical first half into steep and powerful crux. Quite demanding to onsight for the grade.

Technical cave wrestling at its finest. 2nd ascent after Said in 2011? Tried it a few days in 2020, but was at my limit then and I struggled with finding good beta for the upper cruxes. Was very close to do it in 2021 after two or three sessions of beta refinement, but then the season ended. This autumn I needed to refresh the microbeta yet again, but once I knew all the tricks it felt like I had some margin even in a not great sport climbing shape after bouldering whole last season and very little climbing during the summer. I think it could be 8c with modern kneebar-tactics but it is also a style I am very proficient at, so I will spare my grade opinion for now and see what others' think. I am sure it will not take another 10 years for it to get repeated.

Technical and quite demanding crux.

Incredibly beautiful. Bring a camera and take a photo of your andreman.

To me it felt a lot harder than 6c. Like a 6b route into a 7A boulder?

Another great one! A bit reachy crux in the start.

One of the best of the grade. A long adventure.

Cool crux with technical feet and sidepulls.

Mentally demanding. Runout and bolts placed a bit too high at each natural clipping position. So probably not recommended if it is at your limit, but if you have some margin it makes it a very engaging experience.

Beautiful upper half.

Nice but felt quite hard. No chalk and quite spaced bolting.

Interesting climbing with both heel and toe hooks on great rock.

Great rock quality and height.

Nice but short mantle problem.

Started with right heelhook in the starting hold and used the left arete a lot. Nice.

Cool and somewhat airy. Recommended.

Like the great-roof in yosemite.

Standing start on the rock. Right hand on good crimp and went left to a reasonably small gaston crimp. Step onto the wall with high right foot and reach for the right hand sidepull underneath the lip.

Tried going for the good sidepull/jugg a few times but kept spinning of when trying to hold it. Went for the small crimp on the face instead. Better for me.

Moonboard. Long moves on good crimps. Great rock quality.

I think it felt harder than 6C. Nice lowball traverse.

Recommended. Somewhat airy semi-crux to mantle on to the face.

I think it felt a bit too powerful for being 6B+

Also very good. I think the confusion regarding the grades of 7C/8A on Sjöpungen is due to Björn doing the FA from the Sjöpungen extension start giving it 8A and some repeaters starting from this position (second half of the crux of the extension) due to lack of information.

Very good powerendurance boulder with a crimpy crux in the beginning.

Cool powerful moves.

Nice climbing on nice rock.

Nice! The sloper traverse is draining you for the final crimp moves, which for me felt like the crux. Fell four times in the session going for the final crimp before I surprisingly managed to stick it on the last attempt of my third climbing day. Was completely drained when I got up to the assumingly easy mantle, which was slightly harder than anticipated in a no fall zone, which resulted in some nice drama. Often very damp and bad conditions on this boulder, which can be a dealbreaker for the slopers. I used shallow knee-scums to stay positioned under the roof for the traverse.

Great highball in a beautiful spot. Spaced crimp-rails on an otherwise blank face. Much harder if you are shorter than 175 I guess, I could barely reach with my 178+6.

Really enjoy this one. Recommend you to try the front-flag beta to reach the stand start crimps.

I think this line is the line of the block and does not feel like a contrived linkup in any way. One of the best boulders I have done actually. 12 moves in a row which are all hard gives you a proper strength-endurance boulder. I think it could be 8A+ considering that it took me quite a few sessions to puzzle together and the seemingly few repetitions considering it is on one of the most visited blocks in Gothenburg. Even though no move is incredibly hard, you need to climb with a lot of precision on small holds and tiny feet, with a slow and precise match in the slot (especially if you have fat fingers) which drains some energy, which together makes it pretty hard to ascend. I started low in the starting holds and not as a proper sit (you need to be tall or have several pads to start sitting), I also used the tiny crimp-pinch in level and to the right of the slot which I heard some discussd whether it is included or not. To me it makes no sense to eliminate it and would only make this great line an elimination contrived line, it would neither make any difference in difficulty. Edit: Talked with first ascentionist who confirmed that the hold is not eliminated. I also used a kneepad to make the final kneescum part in La Bousse slightly easier when you arrive there with fatigue. Team ascent with Moritz in great conditions after a few sessions together. Thought I would fall from the topout-jugs with completely numb hands on the first attempt of the day.

Tricky body positions to make the shallow heelhooks stay. Mental mantle. Fell on the mantle on my first session. Felt like Seb Grieves on Meshuga in Hard Grit, i.e like a though guy, before I realized it is a pretty good fall on a pile of pads from 3m height. Regardless, classic line and interesting moves.

Two stars for the location which is amazing. I used holds and was with my body partially to the right of the arete. The mantle is a little bit tricky for the grade.

Cool board-style moves sharp holds! Tried a variant which started a few moves further down to the left, adding a few dabby-low crimp moves into the starting holds of this one.

Fun traverse on good rock!

The first hour of trying, it felt impossible to pull on the tiny crux hold and like I would break my foot in the heel-toe-cam. Tried a bunch of more or less weird alternative beta with little success. After some lental soup and colder conditions I was ready to commit and pull a bit harder. Then it went from impossible to successfully climbed within a few tries. Cool powerful moves but painful crux hold. Hard to say about the grade. Very powerful but so straight-forward that you will probably do it fast or not at all.

Cool toehook-boulder. Could not go directly to the lip (morpho-beta), but going to the crimps still felt more like 7C+ to me.

Powerful yet technical. Came very close to doing it on the first session, surprisingly. Then I had a few frustrating sessions with bad skin and conditions before I felt strong on it again. Tactic-beta to have someone guide the crucial heelhook which you throw blindly over the lip.

Classic and polished to glass. Interesting crux sequence. Being tall or having great flexibility may help. Took me a few sessions before I had the skin and microbeta to get to the top.

Fun mantle

Albarracin-typical deadpoint launch.

Very spectacular roof which takes minutes to climb. Like a one-move 8A boulder into 8b route? Suits my style very well.

Beta with matching the pocket which you deadpoint from, one-move boulder.

Beautiful

Endurance boulder.

Cool boulder in a 40 degree overhang on dark grey rock which is smoother than the rest of Utby. You feel badass climbing it, like D.Woods low gear machine style, giving multiple opportunities to show off your biceps strength in static moves. Semi-hard first half into powerful crux with a small incut undercling which you dyno to the lip from, a move which feels quite scary until you have commited a few times. Too bad the landing sucks and it is so moist and dark that you almost need a headlamp during daytime.

Short but still offers some challenging moves in classic board climbing style. Catching the lip and maintaining pressure on the left hand was the crux for me. Crux hand hold is very painful and specific. I don't know about the grade, 8A seems reasonable, probably a bit anti-morpho.

Some of the best moves I have ever done with great rock and sweet landing. Absolute world class and very unique!

One of the most iconic boulders in Sweden I suppose. Really really good! I think the stand start still offers the hardest moves of the boulder, and the lowstart adds some fatigue for when you arrive at the slightly tricky final moves. The heel or toehook for moving the left hand from the start hold is also quite tricky until you find the right body position.

Reachy and technical

Zika but spectacular climbing through chossy roof on deep three finger slots. Non-stop climbing. First I thought easy, then I thought hard, then I thought ok. Last day and last climb of seven month climbing trip.

Having watched people climb it 210 times while banging my head against the wall on San ku Kai for 20+ climbing days.

Great endurance route

Boulder to endurance

Powerendurance climb. Easyish start into powerful roof section with typical slimy Rue two-pad incuts with little feet options. Rest before executing a cool final boulder on smaller holds up onto the verical part.

Powerful powerendurance climbing with a campus section on pockets in a roof.

Pinky mono crux was interesting.

Tricky slab into a more powerful crux move past a small roof. Then chossy but juggy climbing to the top.

Very good crimp-endurance climbing.

Ultra-classic! Climbed like shit though, wet all the way, mega-polished and quite spaced out bolts turned out to a over-gripping fiesta and relieving anchor-clip.

Nice!

Hardest of the three 7b+ clmbs in the overhang.

Three short bit quite tricky 7b+ routes here. This was easiest of the three.

Incredibly humid which is even more apparent when you climb in the El Camino sector which has been gangbanged daily for 20 years. Warmed up with 3km approach+3km run back to the car at 4:00 min/km pace when a local farmer wanted us to move the vans and then a 3km down-jog back again.

Powerendurance route, I liked it. A bit committing start

Nice climbing but polished, somewhat tricky to read crux sequence.

Miserably tired hangning from the midpoint rest, I could nothing but observe a runaway dog looting our backpack of food. Chipped zika sequence in the roof, completely came out of the routesetters sequence close to the anchor.

Good climbing on tufas. Clipping the anchor is the crux, which is a bit unfortunate. Dozens of bird's nests on the extension and also on some of the routes of the sector.

Ocean of tufas. Can probably be climbed in many different ways. Crazy rainfall 30 minutes after the ascent made all the tufas of the sector go from dry to waterfalls in less than an hour!

Recommended. Typical Rodellar overhang.

Pumpy, did not find many kneebars for once.

Amazing overhanging endurance route. Seems like it is considered 7c+ if you veer right after the roof, which is not very far from the bolt line, but a bit in under a bush xD. Followed the bolt line on a beautiful crimpy sequence. Regardless, great climbing.

Classic. All good holds, but 20 meters and overhanging.

40m beauty. Easy but dangerously runout 5+ start into beautiful and exposed face climbing. Feels harder than many 7a for me, probably because on a slab we are all the same.

Most think that the first moves are the crux. With a left knee-bar I thought it was not very hard. After that you have beautiful and a bit runout 7a+ dihedral climbing.

Technical and a bit hard to read in the crux.

Slab climbing into a steep overhang with a somewhat hard anchor clip.

Cool line in the obvious system of dihedral/crack with somewhat exposed climbing. Hard boulder at the top, struggled with finding the sequence and fiddled around there for quite some time.

Closing the circle in the L'Olla overhang with the harder exit of the first route i did here.

Spectacular enduro route. One of my more unexpected sends. Felt very strong the day before, but had little endurance and felt a bit tense after no climbing for a week due to rain and school commitments. This day I felt very tired during the warmup, considered not even trying. Barely made it through the starting crux but felt better and better the higher I got and realized in the crux that I felt fresher than the day before and got through it, after that it is a matter of keeping it together to the top.

Bouldery start

Very beautiful with a lot if interesting climbing though one move is significantly harder than the others.

Spectacular climbing, sustained start on "good" holds far apart with interesting moves into a crimpyish crux sequence. Decent rest before you have another 7A boulder guarding the anchor. Solid 8b I think, significantly harder than Cronica I believe which is on the opposite side of the grade range.

A big challenge for me! The hard and very powerful boulder of Mortensen in the House directly into a 15 meter long very technical yet powerful traverse above the lip of the roof, maybe 8b route(?) and the rest in between the sections is not as good as you would like. Fell numerous times on the boulder and four times on the traverse after making it through the boulder. Got the line recommended by the legend D.Graham as a natural and cool line and I completely agree, should see more traffic! Took me more days than the 8c's done on the trip, so 8c+ seems appropriate.

Shares first bolts and startboulder with Directa Cornualles. Then it veers of left into a overhanging traverse which I initially thought would not be so hard, but I fell there several times due to pumping out. Not sure if my endurance is a bit lower than usual after many bouldery routes or if the route is actually pumpy.

Intro semi-hard moves into great kneebar rest before you launch out through the roof into a very powerful boulderproblem on dual crimp underclings, launching sideways into a decent hold that is chronically wet and is very hard to catch due to the body position being slightly off. Super high risk move with a lot of subtle details. Then several powerful and tricky moves follows before you come up to a jug rest and a 7a climbing outro. Took me multiple days to find a beta that worked, and even when I knew the beta, I could only stick the move when I turned up the aggressiveness enough to be willing to latch the hold at full speed and had fully charged the biceps.

Striking line straight out of the L'Olla overhang. Powerful yet tricky start into several boulders with incomplete resting positions in between. After going into another pulley-injury (third in 14 months) and a lumbrical strain (excluding pocketclimbing in Margalef from the list of good choices), the best choice seems to be projecting on steep terrain.

One very hard move from double crimp underclings and tiny feet. Maybe 7C+ boulder into 8a route? Did the boulder on the second day but then fell on the 7A crimp-crux by the end. Took several more days before I did the boulder again, giving up to 15 tries in a day xD Hard to grade, have not done many routes with such a distinct boulder at the very start.

Powerful steep climbing with the crux move being a dyno from a left hand crimp after the draining start moves. Got cold pumped on the upper half which is maybe 7c climbing.

Cool but polished. Went straight up at the final crux on the os. Going right was easier.

Steep start into cool tufas.

One longer move

Sustained

Tricky mid-section

Finally managed a 8a os which has been a goal that I have never really prioritised enough energy for, always doing onsight climbing when being to tired for climbing the projects. Overhanging endurance climbing. Did not feel in particularly good endurance shape after bouldery climbing in Siurana for a month, but managed to make my way up slow and steady. Almost got "ankarfrossa" when I spotted the anchor during the last two meters of climbing.

High quality route. Vertical climbing with a technical, yet powerful and complex bouldery crux in the first part. Then several sustained and varied sections all the way to the top. Old-school bolted, 7 bolts in 25 m. Strained the a2-pulley on it though :(

Superb. Sustained climbing with many layback moves.

Very good! Endurance crimping on the upper part. Felt quite hard to me!

Long route with many reachy moves but a crimpy crux section halfway up. Looked like big holds climbing, thought I would be fine in the blasing sun, was not, punted on the polished crimps in the crux. Upper third has some very reachy moves between sharp undercuts to small pockets, cool but might give rise to words of the devil by people with smaller reach and biceps. Slightly spaced bolting. Recommended.

Felt more like 5a? Jugs on slightly above vertical. Good route.

L1+L2, 35 m. Second "pitch" is really good. First pitch less so.

Siurana classic! Not as good as advertised, but still very good. 7a+ climbing into a good rest before a crimpy bouldercrux. Seems like the most well chalked beta was a slight left escape, reducing the difficulty of the boulder from maybe 7B to 7A+. I did it with the escape beta. Then there is 10 meters of beautiful endurance climbing with tricky sequences before you come to the final third which is easier. Here it seems like the wisdom of the crowd has found a slight left escape on the upper slab, which kind of makes sense when the bolts are miles apart. Maybe 8a+ with these conventional left variations.

Two bouldery sections. Dynamic moves on crimps. Used high left heelhook beta for the first crux. A bit polished.

Powerful crux, probably hard to onsight for the grade.

Very good! Sustained on sharp incuts in different angles. Reminds me of Tres Ponts.

Vertical testpiece. No easy moves and long sequence with small crimps by the last few bolts. Got really pumped at the last long lock-off moves. Definitely an 8a to me, and not an easy one. Did not use the no hands rest far out right before the crux starts, which supposedly is the reason for the 7c+ downgrade in some guides, but I doubt this rest makes big a difference since you have a decent rest either way.

Had climbed the first half before when doing Lola Corwin. Surprisingly hard on the part that looks easy.

Amazing! Striking line at a beautiful spot. 7b dihedral before you traverse out onto the face. The face is technical with sustained hard moves separated by a semi-marginal rest. Then you come up to the roof where you also have a marginal rest in the sharpest pockets you can imagine before you have to pull of the crux of the route, consisting of a brutal undercling move followed by several extended launches. A crunched up clip before you can death crimp the shit out of the last few meters to the anchor. Was incredibly close to fall on these very last moves. For me the hardest thing about this route was the deadpoint undercling move where you can easily do a slight mistake and fall of even though you are feeling kind of fresh.

Beautiful. Many crack climbing moves.

Adventurous feeling on this one.

Beautiful. Powerful start into continuous crack/layback climbing and a crux just before the anchor.

Great line, cool moves and beautiful setting. Left exit felt more than a half grade harder.

Clean short face with crux matching on a small edge.

Clean line with crimpy moves. Tricky just below the anchor.

Beautiful upper part. Might feel a bit committing if it is on your limit, with bad feet and slightly spaced bolts.

Really cool and beautiful! One commiting crux move, the rest is easier.

Linking Troglodyte and Neo through 5 meter of "new" climbing. An aesthetic line in my opinion and a straight diagonal all the way from Troglodyte. Logically, linking a 8a+ into 8b+ should probably bump the grade to 8c. But to me it felt more like linking a 8a into an 8b and I believe that I am not strong enough to claim 8c without putting in more effort. Good option when other routes may be wet. Altough Neo may be seeping, the holds stay dry.

Cool boulder problem. Shallow kneebarring and bad sidepulls in a roof. Powerful but not very risky moves. Always dry.

Troglodyte into pumpy part of Mad Rock.

Spectacular steep section with technical kneebars and shitty underclings. First redpoint attempt after going bolt by bolt twice. Found a beta which suited me very well and made all of the moves quite high percentage though very powerful. The amazing rail in the roof feels like something straight out of Flatanger.

A tricky onsight with non-obvious beta. Pulled out the rope and tried to clip the anchor thrice before I succeded. In no way similar to the climbing in Niemisel. Not the best in the cave but as I usually say, there is no such thing as bad climbing.

Bouldery start of Mad Rock. No anchor but probably equally valid route as Troglodyte since they end at the same spot?

Really good! Intro boulderproblem to pumpy climbing on good holds in steep terrain with a slightly techy sequence just below the anchor. I found the so called traverse crux to be surprisingly easy, bomber knee and incut slots.

Cave-wrestling at its best. Suits me very well with techy kneebars and lots of core engagement. 2nd redpoint go after working it for two days. Found static beta on the crux section just past the jugs which are notoriously wet, making it possible to dry your hands on your pants before grabbing the crimp.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Crimps with some somewhat insecure clips close to the ground.

Almost held the pendulum on the final move of the onsight. Tricky heel in the undercling. Maybe bad beta. Really nice one!

Another good route in Niemisel. As said, some longer reaches on gastons and sidepulls.

Sustained with decent rests and no real stopper moves. Great except for the slightly awkward initial traverse.

Powerful traverse, nice!

Nice climbing except for the rock in your back. I feel like the mental aspect is what makes it feel hard. Getting a toe up on the lowstart was extremely hard for me though, got nothing back except for cramp in the thigh xD.

Psyked but tested my discipline to keep climbing openhanded to not fuck up my injured finger. Everything that looked like jugs from the ground was not. Somewhat hard to protect the start.

Almost went for a hybris not warmed up onsight attempt. Glad I didn't. Surprisingly hard start. After that you can turn on cruise mode and enjoy beautiful easy climbing. Definitely coming back for the lead.

Sustained, varied and with many bad feet placements. First headpoint experience.

After cruising Afterburner I thought, "I know how to crack climb..." *staring up at the harder routes* "maybe I should try one of those?...". Went for this supposedly equally hard route and it ended up being half an hour sustained fight on the wall. My first ever taped jam glove was completely torn away after one third of the route and I was desperately squeezing my jams all over the crack. Never thought I would get to the top and the thought of taking my first fall on gear was even inviting. Found myself spotting the finishing jug above the lip, but it was protected by a final flare in the crack. Full body pump and no diginitiy left regarding technique, things went desperate but I managed to stab for the jug and held it. Great fight, great feeling.

Slightly overhanging on fingerlocks with an short off-width at the end. Classic!

Really good. Long, exposed and sustained. Enjoyed every move.

Nice but short.

Sustained on decent incut crimps cut since they are all slots you cant engage your thumbs. Climbed as part of a flash attempt on Cirkus Scott. Never clipped the anchor but within clipping reach from the jugs.

Very nice line even though the hard part is very short. Dynamic moves on incut crimps.

Really good. Bomber granite quality and dynamic moves.

The line of the crag. Would have been three stars if it was more sustained. The 8a intro is the hardest part. Followed by easier climbing into a boulder right before the anchor which is not really hard but a bit tricky. The day before I injured a second pulley during the last 5 months, has the west coast climate weakened my tendons? Cya in another few months 27crags

Harder start than expected.

Slopey traverse in the roof. Some shoulder intense moves.

Strongly recommended. Bouldery sequences separated by decent rests. Superb granite. I dont really understand at which point you would like to escape to the arete.

Somewhat tricky traverse on crimpslots on bad feet. Ended up at the shelf. I think not including it would be an elimination rather than the most natural line.

Good climbing. Somewhat reachy start. Bouldery finish before the anchor.

Some superhero moves, campusing on jugs on the lip. Bouldery crux.

Spectacular climbing! Many people trying it since the broken hold thinks that it has become a distinct point crux. For me the whole sequence to the top from the 7a+ anchor felt sustained.

Maybe 2nd ascent? Not in the guidebook, but the bolts have been there for an unknown time. Exposed overhanging traverse on an arete. 7c or 7c+

Easy start into a crack with fingerlocks and a few long moves, more bouldery than pumpy. 7c in guidebook, easier than the other 7c's at the crag which are hard though.

Nice, but morpho crux below the anchor.

Under-rated route I believe. Powerendurance climbing on incut crimps in an overhang. 7c/+

The classic of the crag. Really good and pumpy. Somehow managed to fall on the onsight after catching the anchor-clipping jug when my knee hit the wall after taking the pendulum. Like climbing in Niemisel. 7c/+ probably

Tricky with lots of beta-possibilities and no obvious way past the crux. Used a right knee-scum when working my way left on the slopers, felt slightly easier than 8b for me with my beta once I figured it out. Third try of the day on the third day in a row at Svanvik, loving the place.

Very nice route. Somewhat bouldery climbing in the first half on some drilled pockets. Pumpy upper part. Fell by the last move before the anchor on the onsight attempt with some intense pre-season pump.

One tricky section which is way harder if you are short

Some parts extremely morpho

Unique and cool characteristic "dyno" crux where you want to make it as little as possible as a dyno since taking the swing is very hard. Semi-hard moves after that.

Granite beauty. Good holds and bad feet. Sustained.

Barndoor climbing on a tall arete. Mental topout.

Något enklare än vänstervariant tycker jag.

Kraftfull. Lite morpho.

Kraftfulla moves på små snedställda lister. Kvällsklättring i februari är ett för mig nytt fenomen. En utmaning att klättra med öppen handsfattning pga trasig A4.

Svårare än den ser ut. Två moves med areteklämmeri.

En högfriktionsdag är nog att önska om man har planer på bestiga denna. Har snart övat in alla moves på stenen där man inte behöver en hel vänsterhand.

Heelhook mantle on beautiful sloper.

"Best sloper on the west coast"

Nice climbing and good rock.

One of the best at the crag. 10 meter powerendurance climbing in steep terrain on great rock quality.

Not sure about which boulder we climbed but it was graded 7A but felt much easier than that. Slab where you finish with both hands matched on a crimp.

My longest standing project. Tried it during my first climbing day ever in 2014.

Nice, short moves on jugs with good feet.

Crimpy traverse with sensitive heels

11 pitches of sustained face climbing. First pitches a bit dirty. Painfully hot in the sun.

Pumpy granite climbing. Cool crag!

Pumpy climbing into a really tricky ending with many shitty holds and a bad knee-scum.

Powerful route on steep terrain in a beautiful setting. Maybe morpho.

Goes right after the crux of Papanuk, more straightforward and pumpy exit but less hard moves.

Pumpy roofclimbing with many cool sequences. Really liked it. Always in the shade and often windy. The dirty 10 meter intro 6c+ is not nice though.

15 meter powerendurance climbing in a 45 degrees overhang. Powerful and a lot of bodytension.

Classic of the crag. Fingery powerendurance with many three finger crimps. Really fun to climb. Maybe feels more like 8a+ if you have good fingerstrength. Like racing in the street. Clipped all the draws and didnt go left in the crux to the first restjug in the dihedral though I was tempted to.

Better than expected. Fingery powerendurance.

Hard. Slab. Harder than all of the 7b's further to the left.

7a+/7b?

7a+/7b. Somewhat tricky middle part.

Beautiful line even though the middle section is not so interesting. Maybe a bit too many bolts in the upper part, makes the experience less interesting when you clip every other move and of course I am not brave enough to skip any of them on the onsight. For me it felt more like 7c.

Slightly easier then the 7a to the left but still surprisingly sustained on crimps.

30 meter almost vertical climbing. Two sustained and crimpy harder parts. Fell on the onsight after clipping the last draw, final meter is not easy to read. Not often you complain about the cold in the summer, but this crag is really chilly, especially when it is windy. Fingers completely numb in the first technical crux.

Vertical with sustained crimpy sections. 7b+/7c

Sustained on crimps. Manufactured like many of the routes at this crag.

Beautiful vertical climbing. Sustained crimpy sections separated by better holds.

Nice and long. Vertical and somewhat tricky into slightly overhanging and more pumpy.

What can one say... Yet another three star route.

Another classic and the easiest route on the steeper part of the tufasector. Fucked up the onsight on the lower part after choosing to follow the wrong tufa. Onsighted/flashed it to the top next try. Really good climbing. Somewhat harder moves separated by jugs almost all the way.

Beautiful line up the highest part of the sector. Sustained vertical climbing into more powerful and pumpy climbing up the overhanging headwall on mainly edges and pockets. Had great flashbeta after belaying Agnes during her successfull first 8a project. The traverse at the start reduces the rating from three to two stars.

Same first half as Parfum de Kalymnos, then instead of exiting straight up with a 7c-ish route, you traverse right for 15 meters (6c-ish).

Kalymnos-style. Large tufa features and very steep. Surprisingly dirty at the top considering it is the classic of the crag. Superdevotas is really peaceful and nice, would like to spend more time here.

Nice and sustained. Warm up of the crag and gets gangbanged every day tough.

Classic of the crag. Came very close to fulfilling the 8a-os dream after climbing well and confident for once on a hard onsight attempt. Really good and varied climbing, no part is easy and no part is really hard..

Kingline. Sustained first half on a thin tufa into a good rest, followed by a powerful section and a pumpy and sustained upper part. The quality of the routes here are incredible.

Amazing route. Steep and powerful start which suited me perfectly, powerendurance on crimps with deep dropknees. Middle section is easier with many kneebar opportunities. Then you enter a more pumpy part where you can easily fall. I did three times. Insanely hot weather made it feel like a proper 8b to me, if the conditions were better it might be a rather soft one.

Bouldery start, somewhat pumpy end.

Sustained and juggy endurance part in the beginning and a more vertical and bouldery section higher up. Climbed passively and bad, waiting for some hard moves to hit me, but it never really did. Felt more like low end 7b+.

Tufa jungle for 10 m, not so interesting, into 20 meters of sustained vertical climbing on mainly good holds and a bit slippery feet. Recommended!

Also recommended. Somewhat more bouldery than Corinda.

One million degrees hot. 25 meters of mainly jugs on a slightly overhanging wall. No chalk made it somewhat hard to find the best holds since you have so many to choose from. Helmet recommended for the belayer since the rock is quite loose at places.

Extremely good! Sustained boulderproblems separated by better holds for resting. Intense for fingers and skin. The final boulder, pulling up onto the slab, was really desperate with sharp crimps and technical footwork. Definitely deserves the + in my opinion, slightly harder than El Batec. One of the best at the crag I think.

Easier technical climbing into a bouldery and morpho crux. Found it somewhat harder than the longer 7b to the right.

Both very technically and physically demanding. Took me several days to find a sequence on the bouldercrux past the roof that was not completely desperate, so much microbeta to be found. One of those routes where you can fall a hundered times but once you do it, it doesnt feel that hard. Like a 7b route into a 7C boulder, into some more sustained moves where you might fall, before the easier 6b slab above. Glad that I did it before some insane heat arrived.

Much better than it looks from the ground. Enjoyed it. Sustained section on crimps. Not so hard to redpoint but somewhat heady and hard to read on the onsight.

Polished, not much easier than the 7a+ extension?

Second pitch is really cool. First pitch is polished and not so cool.

Ultraclassic kingline through the roof! Unexpected evening send after struggling with an bouldery route the major part of the day, turning into an endurance-weakling?

Maybe the most fucked up moves I have ever done. Like squeezing yourself out of a vagina. One star for uniqueness.

Cool but extremely polished. Hang around at the jugs at the intro boulder for 5 minutes at the onsight, before finding the sequence, got flashpump of death. Then I fell on the last hard move. Punter

Really good. In the sun, could probably boil an egg on the jugs.

Cool! Steep and following a left-veering ramp.

One of the most striking lines! Sustained tufa pulling with many bad knee-bars into a even more pumpy section on more orange and blocky rock, followed by a mantle problem to a slopey crimp traverse into a good rest and a crimpy boulderproblem guarding the anchors. Has it all!

Nice contrast to the slab. Steep with mainly good holds, many fingerlocks and handjams.

Interesting slab. Bolts a bit misplaced maybe.

Vertical and sustained.

Vertical and sustained into few hard moves in the roof

Few hard moves before the steep part.

40 meter. Very nice, sustained with many fingerlocks and handjam opportunities.

Fell stabbing for the jug after the crux on the onsight after one of my biggest fights, was on the wall for maybe 45 minutes. Got insanely pumped on the bottom part of the 7c. Rested forever at every good hold but could only do a few hard moves in a row before that deep pump was back at me. Followed the chalk and veered right on the vertical 8a crux, found myself few meters above the bolt and a blank space seperating me from the bolt line. Somehow managed to yank my way back to the bolt line and clip the bolt by my feet and by a miracle I pulled of a few more crimpy moves with shitty feet before I hit some better hold but by this time the pump was so deep that not even incut holds on vertical terrain could save me, stabbed for the jug that marked the end of the hard section but the foot slipped and I was off. Tried it once more that day but was completely out of gas. Did it the day after with some margin.

Very bouldery start into nice climbing.

What en epic fight. Got insanely pumped after hesitating on the sustained part after the bottom boulder.

Soo freaking good! 35 meter of sustained and varied climbing. Gave an onsightattempt but fell in the first crux trying to figure out how to clip. Steep climbing on incut holds to the first crux in slightly overhanging terrain on sidepulls and undercuts. Bad rest into the second crux which is either done as a compression problem or a mantle with wide gastons. Finishing of with a slab. Got it all!

Yet another great one!

Great route! But why on earth hasnt this classic of the crag been named?! Good holds but non-ideal feet.

Bouldery and not so nice