Tobias Karlsson

Old project that was bolted in 2007 by Jens Larsen, I added an anchor on the ledge which felt like the most natural ending and tried it briefly in 2022. Tried it a lot during the autumn 2023 since it was a great challenge without hard right hand crimps during my year of pulley surgery reconstruction. Managed to climb it to the top during the first crisp autumn days in 2024. The SBH intro is not hard except for the tricky first small roof, but still it drains more energy than you expect due to the steepness. From the anchor of SBH a short boulder which requires shoulders of steel with my beta. Then a brief rest before the meat of the route begins with a sustained powerful boulder with technical body positioning where each move does not seem too bad at first but still managed to be big challange to link from the ground. One of the coolest sequences I have done where you need to use many tools from the toolbox. Outro mantle problem onto the ledge which is much easier but fallable once the pump starts to hit you. I loved projecting it. Regarding the difficulty I am very uncertain. I spent much more time on it than on Captain Caveman, and I think the style suits me well on both. On the other hand many sessions were spent before finding the beta that was used in the end and many short sessions after work in non-ideal conditions and coming back from injury. I have also not tried it with anyone else. I am a decent jammer but not expert level and there are possibly some expert level jams that could change how it is climbed.The conditions are also a bit tricky since the holds in the crux are always mostly dry, but almost always humid. Very happy to have opened up another great difficult line in the cave :)

Up to the first anchor. Several bouldery sections separated by good rests. See my comment on the full line for more details.

If you are up for an adventure! Sustained climbing all the way with many small boulders separated by good rests but the length of the climb still drains you. A surprisingly steep final part with 40 meters of air below your feet and more pumpy than anticipated even if the holds are all ok. The rock quality is not great. Spent many hours cleaning it, focusing on doing my best to remove all possibilities of dangerous loose rock, which I still of course can't guarantee, so the belayer should pay attention and wear a helmet. There are still many crusty patches where you might place your foot and feel it crumble under your sticky rubber and some handholds that is still a bit dirty/sandy. But I think the foundation of the rock is good and solid so when/if it sees some traffic I think it will improve. Some bolt placements also had to be placed in the most solid rock, and thus not necessarily in the optimal clipping positions. Good to use some extended quickdraws, especially below the first small roof. I think I used 22 quickdraws and a 100 m rope, with a shorter rope you can rethread in the first anchor.

Cool boulder at the first overhang with a unusual shoulder press that is more spectacular than hard. Easier section and a good rest followed by the crux which is powerful and technical. Good holds by the last bolt from which it gets easier again. The rock is really good in this part of the wall. Some holds close to the chossy dihedral to the left felt a bit suspicuos and may come off, but it should not change the climb since they are only used for the easier middle section. Regarding the difficulty, it took me one evening session to find the beta and then I did it on the first attempt the evening after. I think my solution for the crux suits me well. Felt similar to Analyse and Neo 8b in Granitgrottan which are somewhat similar in style. But I could also see some people finding it easier or harder because the hard part is short and very specific. I am happy to hear what future repeaters think :)

Really good crimpendurance 7c-ish into a distinct crimpy boulder by the last bolt. I think it is 8a if you go straight up by the final crux. A right variation is possible to avoid the crux.

Stopped by the first bolt due to dangerously loose big block. Could pull it out with a few body weight pulls. Then continued to the top. Lots of praise to everyone who contributes with bolting and opening new routes. I think that it is not the best approach to bolt and FA routes and leave the removal of obviously loose blocks to the future climbers. That being said, I think Korpekullen has a lot more to offer with appropriate cleaning job, even if the rock quality is not the best.

Could not feel my feet or hands for most of the route which made a great route an unpleasant experience.

Good climbing but a bit suspicously loose. Somewhat spaced bolting at a few places.

I think it was just as good as the left neighbour. Less bouldery but a bit more technically demanding.

Very good on the seemingly best wall of the quarry. Had a fun os-attempt where it started to pour down rain about 1/3 up the route. Challenge accepted, I imagined myself training for climbing some wet alpine route. Fell on the final boulder which was thin.

The day before double pulley reconstruction by Dr Shöffl in Bamberg. Mine and Agnes brief surgery-trip to Frankenjura.

Wolfgang ftw

Delicate middle section.

Thought it would be a good ticklist tactic to send Laroy now when I had the beta dialed for everything but the upper easier section where it veers right from Caveman. Practiced the upper part once. Made an attempt from the ground, but the Leroy part was soaking wet, thought it was ggwp. Thought I should at least make one more A Muerte go, for fun. Somehow made it through Leroy in the wettest state to date. Knee pads, shoes, hands, chalk bag were all moist and I was sure I would not make it through the boulder crux by the anchor of Leroy. Somehow I did and found myself resting before the supposedly easy upper part. I had only checked the beta once, all the cracks were moist and was very fatigued, so I was not sure at all I would make it. Went reasonably smooth up until the last 5 meters where I was very close to falling even if the section is no more than a 6B boulder. I was completely out of gas in the forearms. At the most critical moment I desperately farmed a crimp with knuckles because the fingers were not working anymore. It was everything but beautiful. Anyway, I made it to the anchor and it was a great feeling after a great fight.

Technical first half into steep and powerful crux. Quite demanding to onsight for the grade.

Technical cave wrestling at its finest. 2nd ascent after Said in 2011? Tried it a few days in 2020, but was at my limit then and I struggled with finding good beta for the upper cruxes. Was very close to do it in 2021 after two or three sessions of beta refinement, but then the season ended. This autumn I needed to refresh the microbeta yet again, but once I knew all the tricks it felt like I had some margin even in a not great sport climbing shape after bouldering whole last season and very little climbing during the summer. I think it could be 8c with modern kneebar-tactics but it is also a style I am very proficient at, so I will spare my grade opinion for now and see what others' think. I am sure it will not take another 10 years for it to get repeated.

To me it felt a lot harder than 6c. Like a 6b route into a 7A boulder?

Another great one! A bit reachy crux in the start.

One of the best of the grade. A long adventure.

Cool crux with technical feet and sidepulls.

Mentally demanding. Runout and bolts placed a bit too high at each natural clipping position. So probably not recommended if it is at your limit, but if you have some margin it makes it a very engaging experience.

Nice but felt quite hard. No chalk and quite spaced bolting.

Zika but spectacular climbing through chossy roof on deep three finger slots. Non-stop climbing. First I thought easy, then I thought hard, then I thought ok. Last day and last climb of seven month climbing trip.

Having watched people climb it 210 times while banging my head against the wall on San ku Kai for 20+ climbing days.

Great endurance route

Boulder to endurance

Powerendurance climb. Easyish start into powerful roof section with typical slimy Rue two-pad incuts with little feet options. Rest before executing a cool final boulder on smaller holds up onto the verical part.

Powerful powerendurance climbing with a campus section on pockets in a roof.

Pinky mono crux was interesting.

Tricky slab into a more powerful crux move past a small roof. Then chossy but juggy climbing to the top.

Very good crimp-endurance climbing.

Ultra-classic! Climbed like shit though, wet all the way, mega-polished and quite spaced out bolts turned out to a over-gripping fiesta and relieving anchor-clip.

Nice!

Hardest of the three 7b+ clmbs in the overhang.

Three short bit quite tricky 7b+ routes here. This was easiest of the three.

Incredibly humid which is even more apparent when you climb in the El Camino sector which has been gangbanged daily for 20 years. Warmed up with 3km approach+3km run back to the car at 4:00 min/km pace when a local farmer wanted us to move the vans and then a 3km down-jog back again.

Powerendurance route, I liked it. A bit committing start

Nice climbing but polished, somewhat tricky to read crux sequence.

Miserably tired hangning from the midpoint rest, I could nothing but observe a runaway dog looting our backpack of food. Chipped zika sequence in the roof, completely came out of the routesetters sequence close to the anchor.

Good climbing on tufas. Clipping the anchor is the crux, which is a bit unfortunate. Dozens of bird's nests on the extension and also on some of the routes of the sector.

Ocean of tufas. Can probably be climbed in many different ways. Crazy rainfall 30 minutes after the ascent made all the tufas of the sector go from dry to waterfalls in less than an hour!

Recommended. Typical Rodellar overhang.

Pumpy, did not find many kneebars for once.

Amazing overhanging endurance route. Seems like it is considered 7c+ if you veer right after the roof, which is not very far from the bolt line, but a bit in under a bush xD. Followed the bolt line on a beautiful crimpy sequence. Regardless, great climbing.

Classic. All good holds, but 20 meters and overhanging.

40m beauty. Easy but dangerously runout 5+ start into beautiful and exposed face climbing. Feels harder than many 7a for me, probably because on a slab we are all the same.

Most think that the first moves are the crux. With a left knee-bar I thought it was not very hard. After that you have beautiful and a bit runout 7a+ dihedral climbing.

Technical and a bit hard to read in the crux.

Slab climbing into a steep overhang with a somewhat hard anchor clip.

Cool line in the obvious system of dihedral/crack with somewhat exposed climbing. Hard boulder at the top, struggled with finding the sequence and fiddled around there for quite some time.

Closing the circle in the L'Olla overhang with the harder exit of the first route i did here.

Spectacular enduro route. One of my more unexpected sends. Felt very strong the day before, but had little endurance and felt a bit tense after no climbing for a week due to rain and school commitments. This day I felt very tired during the warmup, considered not even trying. Barely made it through the starting crux but felt better and better the higher I got and realized in the crux that I felt fresher than the day before and got through it, after that it is a matter of keeping it together to the top.

Bouldery start

Very beautiful with a lot if interesting climbing though one move is significantly harder than the others.

Spectacular climbing, sustained start on "good" holds far apart with interesting moves into a crimpyish crux sequence. Decent rest before you have another 7A boulder guarding the anchor. Solid 8b I think, significantly harder than Cronica I believe which is on the opposite side of the grade range.

A big challenge for me! The hard and very powerful boulder of Mortensen in the House directly into a 15 meter long very technical yet powerful traverse above the lip of the roof, maybe 8b route(?) and the rest in between the sections is not as good as you would like. Fell numerous times on the boulder and four times on the traverse after making it through the boulder. Got the line recommended by the legend D.Graham as a natural and cool line and I completely agree, should see more traffic! Took me more days than the 8c's done on the trip, so 8c+ seems appropriate.

Shares first bolts and startboulder with Directa Cornualles. Then it veers of left into a overhanging traverse which I initially thought would not be so hard, but I fell there several times due to pumping out. Not sure if my endurance is a bit lower than usual after many bouldery routes or if the route is actually pumpy.

Intro semi-hard moves into great kneebar rest before you launch out through the roof into a very powerful boulderproblem on dual crimp underclings, launching sideways into a decent hold that is chronically wet and is very hard to catch due to the body position being slightly off. Super high risk move with a lot of subtle details. Then several powerful and tricky moves follows before you come up to a jug rest and a 7a climbing outro. Took me multiple days to find a beta that worked, and even when I knew the beta, I could only stick the move when I turned up the aggressiveness enough to be willing to latch the hold at full speed and had fully charged the biceps.

Striking line straight out of the L'Olla overhang. Powerful yet tricky start into several boulders with incomplete resting positions in between. After going into another pulley-injury (third in 14 months) and a lumbrical strain (excluding pocketclimbing in Margalef from the list of good choices), the best choice seems to be projecting on steep terrain.

One very hard move from double crimp underclings and tiny feet. Maybe 7C+ boulder into 8a route? Did the boulder on the second day but then fell on the 7A crimp-crux by the end. Took several more days before I did the boulder again, giving up to 15 tries in a day xD Hard to grade, have not done many routes with such a distinct boulder at the very start.

Powerful steep climbing with the crux move being a dyno from a left hand crimp after the draining start moves. Got cold pumped on the upper half which is maybe 7c climbing.

Cool but polished. Went straight up at the final crux on the os. Going right was easier.

Steep start into cool tufas.

One longer move

Sustained

Tricky mid-section

Finally managed a 8a os which has been a goal that I have never really prioritised enough energy for, always doing onsight climbing when being to tired for climbing the projects. Overhanging endurance climbing. Did not feel in particularly good endurance shape after bouldery climbing in Siurana for a month, but managed to make my way up slow and steady. Almost got "ankarfrossa" when I spotted the anchor during the last two meters of climbing.

High quality route. Vertical climbing with a technical, yet powerful and complex bouldery crux in the first part. Then several sustained and varied sections all the way to the top. Old-school bolted, 7 bolts in 25 m. Strained the a2-pulley on it though :(

Superb. Sustained climbing with many layback moves.

Very good! Endurance crimping on the upper part. Felt quite hard to me!

Long route with many reachy moves but a crimpy crux section halfway up. Looked like big holds climbing, thought I would be fine in the blasing sun, was not, punted on the polished crimps in the crux. Upper third has some very reachy moves between sharp undercuts to small pockets, cool but might give rise to words of the devil by people with smaller reach and biceps. Slightly spaced bolting. Recommended.

Felt more like 5a? Jugs on slightly above vertical. Good route.

L1+L2, 35 m. Second "pitch" is really good. First pitch less so.

Siurana classic! Not as good as advertised, but still very good. 7a+ climbing into a good rest before a crimpy bouldercrux. Seems like the most well chalked beta was a slight left escape, reducing the difficulty of the boulder from maybe 7B to 7A+. I did it with the escape beta. Then there is 10 meters of beautiful endurance climbing with tricky sequences before you come to the final third which is easier. Here it seems like the wisdom of the crowd has found a slight left escape on the upper slab, which kind of makes sense when the bolts are miles apart. Maybe 8a+ with these conventional left variations.

Two bouldery sections. Dynamic moves on crimps. Used high left heelhook beta for the first crux. A bit polished.

Powerful crux, probably hard to onsight for the grade.

Very good! Sustained on sharp incuts in different angles. Reminds me of Tres Ponts.

Vertical testpiece. No easy moves and long sequence with small crimps by the last few bolts. Got really pumped at the last long lock-off moves. Definitely an 8a to me, and not an easy one. Did not use the no hands rest far out right before the crux starts, which supposedly is the reason for the 7c+ downgrade in some guides, but I doubt this rest makes big a difference since you have a decent rest either way.

Had climbed the first half before when doing Lola Corwin. Surprisingly hard on the part that looks easy.

Amazing! Striking line at a beautiful spot. 7b dihedral before you traverse out onto the face. The face is technical with sustained hard moves separated by a semi-marginal rest. Then you come up to the roof where you also have a marginal rest in the sharpest pockets you can imagine before you have to pull of the crux of the route, consisting of a brutal undercling move followed by several extended launches. A crunched up clip before you can death crimp the shit out of the last few meters to the anchor. Was incredibly close to fall on these very last moves. For me the hardest thing about this route was the deadpoint undercling move where you can easily do a slight mistake and fall of even though you are feeling kind of fresh.

Beautiful. Many crack climbing moves.

Adventurous feeling on this one.

Beautiful. Powerful start into continuous crack/layback climbing and a crux just before the anchor.

Clean line with crimpy moves. Tricky just below the anchor.

Beautiful upper part. Might feel a bit committing if it is on your limit, with bad feet and slightly spaced bolts.

Really cool and beautiful! One commiting crux move, the rest is easier.

Linking Troglodyte and Neo through 5 meter of "new" climbing. An aesthetic line in my opinion and a straight diagonal all the way from Troglodyte. Logically, linking a 8a+ into 8b+ should probably bump the grade to 8c. But to me it felt more like linking a 8a into an 8b and I believe that I am not strong enough to claim 8c without putting in more effort. Good option when other routes may be wet. Altough Neo may be seeping, the holds stay dry.

Cool boulder problem. Shallow kneebarring and bad sidepulls in a roof. Powerful but not very risky moves. Always dry.

Troglodyte into pumpy part of Mad Rock.

Spectacular steep section with technical kneebars and shitty underclings. First redpoint attempt after going bolt by bolt twice. Found a beta which suited me very well and made all of the moves quite high percentage though very powerful. The amazing rail in the roof feels like something straight out of Flatanger.

A tricky onsight with non-obvious beta. Pulled out the rope and tried to clip the anchor thrice before I succeded. In no way similar to the climbing in Niemisel. Not the best in the cave but as I usually say, there is no such thing as bad climbing.

Bouldery start of Mad Rock. No anchor but probably equally valid route as Troglodyte since they end at the same spot?

Really good! Intro boulderproblem to pumpy climbing on good holds in steep terrain with a slightly techy sequence just below the anchor. I found the so called traverse crux to be surprisingly easy, bomber knee and incut slots.

Cave-wrestling at its best. Suits me very well with techy kneebars and lots of core engagement. 2nd redpoint go after working it for two days. Found static beta on the crux section just past the jugs which are notoriously wet, making it possible to dry your hands on your pants before grabbing the crimp.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Not sure about the date.

Crimps with some somewhat insecure clips close to the ground.

Almost held the pendulum on the final move of the onsight. Tricky heel in the undercling. Maybe bad beta. Really nice one!

Another good route in Niemisel. As said, some longer reaches on gastons and sidepulls.

Sustained with decent rests and no real stopper moves. Great except for the slightly awkward initial traverse.

Sustained on decent incut crimps cut since they are all slots you cant engage your thumbs. Climbed as part of a flash attempt on Cirkus Scott. Never clipped the anchor but within clipping reach from the jugs.

Very nice line even though the hard part is very short. Dynamic moves on incut crimps.

Really good. Bomber granite quality and dynamic moves.

The line of the crag. Would have been three stars if it was more sustained. The 8a intro is the hardest part. Followed by easier climbing into a boulder right before the anchor which is not really hard but a bit tricky. The day before I injured a second pulley during the last 5 months, has the west coast climate weakened my tendons? Cya in another few months 27crags

Harder start than expected.

Slopey traverse in the roof. Some shoulder intense moves.

Strongly recommended. Bouldery sequences separated by decent rests. Superb granite. I dont really understand at which point you would like to escape to the arete.

Somewhat tricky traverse on crimpslots on bad feet. Ended up at the shelf. I think not including it would be an elimination rather than the most natural line.

Good climbing. Somewhat reachy start. Bouldery finish before the anchor.

Some superhero moves, campusing on jugs on the lip. Bouldery crux.

Spectacular climbing! Many people trying it since the broken hold thinks that it has become a distinct point crux. For me the whole sequence to the top from the 7a+ anchor felt sustained.

Maybe 2nd ascent? Not in the guidebook, but the bolts have been there for an unknown time. Exposed overhanging traverse on an arete. 7c or 7c+

Easy start into a crack with fingerlocks and a few long moves, more bouldery than pumpy. 7c in guidebook, easier than the other 7c's at the crag which are hard though.

Nice, but morpho crux below the anchor.

Under-rated route I believe. Powerendurance climbing on incut crimps in an overhang. 7c/+

The classic of the crag. Really good and pumpy. Somehow managed to fall on the onsight after catching the anchor-clipping jug when my knee hit the wall after taking the pendulum. Like climbing in Niemisel. 7c/+ probably

Tricky with lots of beta-possibilities and no obvious way past the crux. Used a right knee-scum when working my way left on the slopers, felt slightly easier than 8b for me with my beta once I figured it out. Third try of the day on the third day in a row at Svanvik, loving the place.

Very nice route. Somewhat bouldery climbing in the first half on some drilled pockets. Pumpy upper part. Fell by the last move before the anchor on the onsight attempt with some intense pre-season pump.

One tricky section which is way harder if you are short

Some parts extremely morpho

Unique and cool characteristic "dyno" crux where you want to make it as little as possible as a dyno since taking the swing is very hard. Semi-hard moves after that.

Granite beauty. Good holds and bad feet. Sustained.

One of the best at the crag. 10 meter powerendurance climbing in steep terrain on great rock quality.

11 pitches of sustained face climbing. First pitches a bit dirty. Painfully hot in the sun.

Pumpy granite climbing. Cool crag!

Pumpy climbing into a really tricky ending with many shitty holds and a bad knee-scum.

Powerful route on steep terrain in a beautiful setting. Maybe morpho.

Goes right after the crux of Papanuk, more straightforward and pumpy exit but less hard moves.

Pumpy roofclimbing with many cool sequences. Really liked it. Always in the shade and often windy. The dirty 10 meter intro 6c+ is not nice though.

15 meter powerendurance climbing in a 45 degrees overhang. Powerful and a lot of bodytension.

Classic of the crag. Fingery powerendurance with many three finger crimps. Really fun to climb. Maybe feels more like 8a+ if you have good fingerstrength. Like racing in the street. Clipped all the draws and didnt go left in the crux to the first restjug in the dihedral though I was tempted to.

Better than expected. Fingery powerendurance.

Hard. Slab. Harder than all of the 7b's further to the left.

7a+/7b?

7a+/7b. Somewhat tricky middle part.

Beautiful line even though the middle section is not so interesting. Maybe a bit too many bolts in the upper part, makes the experience less interesting when you clip every other move and of course I am not brave enough to skip any of them on the onsight. For me it felt more like 7c.

Slightly easier then the 7a to the left but still surprisingly sustained on crimps.

30 meter almost vertical climbing. Two sustained and crimpy harder parts. Fell on the onsight after clipping the last draw, final meter is not easy to read. Not often you complain about the cold in the summer, but this crag is really chilly, especially when it is windy. Fingers completely numb in the first technical crux.

Vertical with sustained crimpy sections. 7b+/7c

Sustained on crimps. Manufactured like many of the routes at this crag.

Beautiful vertical climbing. Sustained crimpy sections separated by better holds.

Nice and long. Vertical and somewhat tricky into slightly overhanging and more pumpy.

What can one say... Yet another three star route.

Another classic and the easiest route on the steeper part of the tufasector. Fucked up the onsight on the lower part after choosing to follow the wrong tufa. Onsighted/flashed it to the top next try. Really good climbing. Somewhat harder moves separated by jugs almost all the way.

Beautiful line up the highest part of the sector. Sustained vertical climbing into more powerful and pumpy climbing up the overhanging headwall on mainly edges and pockets. Had great flashbeta after belaying Agnes during her successfull first 8a project. The traverse at the start reduces the rating from three to two stars.

Same first half as Parfum de Kalymnos, then instead of exiting straight up with a 7c-ish route, you traverse right for 15 meters (6c-ish).

Kalymnos-style. Large tufa features and very steep. Surprisingly dirty at the top considering it is the classic of the crag. Superdevotas is really peaceful and nice, would like to spend more time here.

Nice and sustained. Warm up of the crag and gets gangbanged every day tough.

Classic of the crag. Came very close to fulfilling the 8a-os dream after climbing well and confident for once on a hard onsight attempt. Really good and varied climbing, no part is easy and no part is really hard..

Kingline. Sustained first half on a thin tufa into a good rest, followed by a powerful section and a pumpy and sustained upper part. The quality of the routes here are incredible.

Amazing route. Steep and powerful start which suited me perfectly, powerendurance on crimps with deep dropknees. Middle section is easier with many kneebar opportunities. Then you enter a more pumpy part where you can easily fall. I did three times. Insanely hot weather made it feel like a proper 8b to me, if the conditions were better it might be a rather soft one.

Bouldery start, somewhat pumpy end.

Sustained and juggy endurance part in the beginning and a more vertical and bouldery section higher up. Climbed passively and bad, waiting for some hard moves to hit me, but it never really did. Felt more like low end 7b+.

Tufa jungle for 10 m, not so interesting, into 20 meters of sustained vertical climbing on mainly good holds and a bit slippery feet. Recommended!

Also recommended. Somewhat more bouldery than Corinda.

One million degrees hot. 25 meters of mainly jugs on a slightly overhanging wall. No chalk made it somewhat hard to find the best holds since you have so many to choose from. Helmet recommended for the belayer since the rock is quite loose at places.

Extremely good! Sustained boulderproblems separated by better holds for resting. Intense for fingers and skin. The final boulder, pulling up onto the slab, was really desperate with sharp crimps and technical footwork. Definitely deserves the + in my opinion, slightly harder than El Batec. One of the best at the crag I think.

Easier technical climbing into a bouldery and morpho crux. Found it somewhat harder than the longer 7b to the right.

Both very technically and physically demanding. Took me several days to find a sequence on the bouldercrux past the roof that was not completely desperate, so much microbeta to be found. One of those routes where you can fall a hundered times but once you do it, it doesnt feel that hard. Like a 7b route into a 7C boulder, into some more sustained moves where you might fall, before the easier 6b slab above. Glad that I did it before some insane heat arrived.

Much better than it looks from the ground. Enjoyed it. Sustained section on crimps. Not so hard to redpoint but somewhat heady and hard to read on the onsight.

Polished, not much easier than the 7a+ extension?

Second pitch is really cool. First pitch is polished and not so cool.

Ultraclassic kingline through the roof! Unexpected evening send after struggling with an bouldery route the major part of the day, turning into an endurance-weakling?

Maybe the most fucked up moves I have ever done. Like squeezing yourself out of a vagina. One star for uniqueness.

Cool but extremely polished. Hang around at the jugs at the intro boulder for 5 minutes at the onsight, before finding the sequence, got flashpump of death. Then I fell on the last hard move. Punter

Really good. In the sun, could probably boil an egg on the jugs.

Cool! Steep and following a left-veering ramp.

One of the most striking lines! Sustained tufa pulling with many bad knee-bars into a even more pumpy section on more orange and blocky rock, followed by a mantle problem to a slopey crimp traverse into a good rest and a crimpy boulderproblem guarding the anchors. Has it all!

Nice contrast to the slab. Steep with mainly good holds, many fingerlocks and handjams.

Interesting slab. Bolts a bit misplaced maybe.

Vertical and sustained.

Vertical and sustained into few hard moves in the roof

Few hard moves before the steep part.

40 meter. Very nice, sustained with many fingerlocks and handjam opportunities.

Fell stabbing for the jug after the crux on the onsight after one of my biggest fights, was on the wall for maybe 45 minutes. Got insanely pumped on the bottom part of the 7c. Rested forever at every good hold but could only do a few hard moves in a row before that deep pump was back at me. Followed the chalk and veered right on the vertical 8a crux, found myself few meters above the bolt and a blank space seperating me from the bolt line. Somehow managed to yank my way back to the bolt line and clip the bolt by my feet and by a miracle I pulled of a few more crimpy moves with shitty feet before I hit some better hold but by this time the pump was so deep that not even incut holds on vertical terrain could save me, stabbed for the jug that marked the end of the hard section but the foot slipped and I was off. Tried it once more that day but was completely out of gas. Did it the day after with some margin.

Very bouldery start into nice climbing.

What en epic fight. Got insanely pumped after hesitating on the sustained part after the bottom boulder.

Soo freaking good! 35 meter of sustained and varied climbing. Gave an onsightattempt but fell in the first crux trying to figure out how to clip. Steep climbing on incut holds to the first crux in slightly overhanging terrain on sidepulls and undercuts. Bad rest into the second crux which is either done as a compression problem or a mantle with wide gastons. Finishing of with a slab. Got it all!

Yet another great one!

Great route! But why on earth hasnt this classic of the crag been named?! Good holds but non-ideal feet.

Bouldery and not so nice

Adventureous feeling. 50 m of climbing on an aretelike-feature.

Superb, 35 meter of slightly overhanging climbing. No part is easy and no part is superhard. The supposed to be jug after the roof turned out to be a sloper on the onsight.

Working on the second pitch which is really cool!

Intense and bouldery! Gave a serious flashattempt but were to passive.

Into the cave. The interesting part is short but good.

35 meter brilliance. Fell after 32 meter on the onsight when I missed the good part of the hold on a dynamic move. Vertical climbing up to a roof with long moves and a pumpy section on slightly worse pockets.

Thought I went on the 7a+, but the initial crux on slopey crimps made me realize it was something slightly harder. Hard where it looks easy and easy where it looks hard.

30 meter of jugpulling. Lovin it

Yay! Felt so good on the route during the last few days and with some warmer temps coming in it was such an relief to clip the anchor of this kingline. 11 days I tried it, some days exclusively and some days just one go or so. In the beginning every move felt doable but to link all of them seemed far away. I am proud of the way I held my mental game together during the process which has been by far the longest I have invested into one route. No single move is overwhelming but there are many hard and sustained sections separated by marginal rests. The jug after the halfway-rest has broken recently, making the route harder according to local climbers.

One move away from a good onsight. Really bouldery on edges.

Steep and juggy, big moves. Really fun!

Vertical boulderproblem on crimps. Different from everything else in the cave. Tried the 8b extension which is supposed to be soft but I could not figure out the sequence right after the first anchor. I suspect that a hold has broken since there was trace from a wellchalked hold that was no longer there.

Polished and tricky first 2 meters, then sustained and good climbing up to the top.

Easy tufahiking up to a boulderproblem.

Pumpy climbing on tufas to some slopey edges before the anchor.

Arrived in the morning after 40 hours non-stop driving from Sweden. Polished route but good moves. Flashed the left variation during last visit, still claim the flash.

Vertical sustained climbing.

Reachy first move from the pile of rocks

In the sunset, beautiful

2nd go. Didn't think I would do it since my open hand/pocket strength lack behind quite a bit after a three month lumbrical strain that has prevented this holdtype. Really funny route with dynamic moves between decent pockets.

Maybe the most obvious line of the cave. Some sustained pulling into heinous kneebar before the crux which can either be done by massive Sharma-dyno or a sneaky heel-hook and bump your left hand several times on shitty holds (it used to be less shitty before a hold broke some years ago I've heard), I went for the later. After the crux you have a better kneebar-rest and a final somewhat insecure dynamic move before some easy jugpulling to the anchor. Five days of effort before it went down. Struggled with some of the coldest climbing weather I've experienced and thus numb fingers, before the sun returned to the cave and brought a smile on the faces of us happy young climbers.

Very good altough the link over to the left was somewhat unclear where the line really was. Great jugpulling in the second half on steeper terrain.

Not hard if you can knee-bar your way through it. Not obvious where to grab the holds tough.

Maybe my hardest onsight ever. Not warmed up, 2 degrees celsius, first climb of the trip, shoes went wet in the start and then straight up onto some polished footholds on vertical terrain, made a good setup for some insane warmup pump. The sequences in the first half truly felt hard tough.

Long and sustained.

Great fun, sustained without any crux. Felt equally hard as Pasta sin agua.

Third ascent? Really nice route. True powerendurance for 10 m, maybe 8a+ up to that point, then a bad rest in two 25 mm holds and not so good feet. Then the final crux is something like a 7A boulder with a hard anchorclip. Crux is to get enough power back in the rest to do the boulder. If "A day in life" is 8b this definitely deserves the plus, felt way harder to me. Took me six sessions, fell six times on the final boulder before clipping the anchor.

Fint tillskott i de lägre graderna. Juggiga grepp hela vägen, synd den inte är längre.

Några något svårare flytt innan man kommer upp på hyllorna. Namngiven efter den mytomspunna möbelaffären i Kopparnäs som inte längre finns.

Mycket trevlig. Börje är en legendarisk busschaufför som har skjutsat skolbarn i Norrfjärden tills den dagen han avgick efter en hetsk konflikt med föräldragruppen.

Powerendurance. Steep with some cool moves on artificial holds in an otherwise blank overhanging face. Not sure about the grade. Permadraws make it easy to try for any aspirating ascender.

Great line, didn't really like the reachy move into the hand-jam though. Made sure to chalk also the upper part of the hand before going into the jam-crux.

Sustained route. I guess the final moves makes the grade, felt pretty hard first before I found a toe jam for the left foot in the crack when going for the jugs above last bolt. This made it rather easy and it felt more like low-end 7c.

Cool, techy bouldery start into some sustained climbing and a small final crux. Found good toe jam at the upper crux which made it easier. 7c+/8a. The start-boulder makes the grade.

Underestimated route? Equally good as Diabolic feelings and of equal difficulty I would say, 8a/+.

Diablo crux into good rest into another bouldery crux. For me the upper crux felt slightly easier, more straightforward. Cool moves on chipped holds. When I came to the anchor the screw-biner to clip was tightened, pushed the rope against the biner twice before I grapped the anchor to unlock it and clip it.

Classic! Fell two times after having stabbed right hand into the "good-hold" after the awkward crux due to stupidity. Nice route to project since you can give it many burns in a day.

Long and fun, slightly less interesting than Bigger than Jim but equally hard. 7a+/7b.

Really good. Not much harder than Big Jim I think, crux is still over the ledges in the 7a+ part. Best 7b in Norrland?

Excellent route, very straightforward. First 2/3 of the route is pure crimpendurance, then you come to a good knee-bar where you can stay as long as your calves allow you to. Then some burlier moves and final pulling before you can clip the chain. Two days, worked the route twice and did it on my third lead-attempt, went down faster than expected given the non-ideal conditions. For me it felt maybe more like 8a+ considering the number of attempts, but I feel in great endurance-shape so I don't know.

Riktigt fin klättring på fin sten. Långa drag mellan krimpar är karaktären på både Rallyplaneten och Action man. Uthålligheten känns superb efter en sommar fylld av sportklättring, vilade mig i princip genom hela övre delen. Doggade en gång och gick ner på första.

Nice technical climbing.

Last day in Briancon. Spent the majority of the day trying to find the crag Entraygues. With no internet and the not so informative guidebook, this turned out to be the crux of the day, a crux for which no beta were found. Desperate to do some climbing before darkness we went for first best crag we found with a short approach. This crag fulfilled our criterias. Warmed up on a 6a+ and then thought I just wanted to try hard on something with no expectations to send with so little time left. Choosed this route, worked it once and sent to my surprise on first go. Slightly overhanging climbing on sidepulls and gastons and some techy feet. Really enjoyed it.

Supercool, 10 meter long but has plenty of cool moves. Many deadpoint moves between good holds. Upper end 7a+.

Cool route. Short and bouldery. Good view of the holds from the ground makes for an excellent onsight. However, first moves are hard.

Powerendurance in 45 degrees overhang. Tried it on the first day in the area and it felt powerful and I ran out of juice at the crux move each time. Worked on a even more powerful 8a down in Rue des Masques for a few days and came back to La Saume and it felt like I could climb it with control, great feeling.

Sustained vertical climbing. Not pumped, neither any very hard moves, just sustained like many of the vertical routes here.

Vertical part in true Rue des Masques style. Then overhang on small but sharp twofingerpockets. Barely made it through on the onsight.

Powerendurance on small crimps and pockets. 19 moves in a row before the first rest with two exhausting clips included. Upper part has some sneaky but insecure knee-scumming and brittle sharp crimps. First day in Rue des Masques was on a sunday and it was crowded as fuck. This was the only available 8a I found and I kind of see why. It felt nails hard but of course I was to stubborn to switch route once the draws were in. Five climbing days during six days, surprised myself by sending on the third consecutive day of climbing in a row. Felt harder to me than any other 8a I've done.

Sustained. Thunderstorm rolling in made gave me good speed on the upper part.

Bouldery sections separated by decent rests. Felt more like 7b+ or even 7b but even so a good onsight fight for me.

Nice. First half on slightly larger holds. Then a typical slab finish with bolts spaced enough to keep things interesting.

First crux has a bit reachy moves, upper crux is more sustained on small holds.

Good route.

One of the greatest. 40 meter of the most sustained climbing you can imagine. Fell twice after 35 meter due to retarded beta, then sent it on the third go of the day just as darkness entered. Lovely feeling. Felt hardest of the 7c's I did on Abissi.

Beautiful first 2/3 of the route on bomber smooth rock with small holds that make the route just climbable. Like Falkberget in Kalix. Then the last 1/3 was really rotten and loose.

Two roofs separeted by a vertical section. Felt easier for me than all the 7c's I did on Abissi sector.

Vertical climbing with a sustained crux on crimps. 7b+/7c in guidebook. Felt like the later with crimps in the heat. Upper part has some spaced bolt on easier terrain.

Extremly sustained vertical climbing on small edges and polished feet. Good route but at least 7b+ I'd say.

25 meter techy supersustained sandbagged 7b into jugrest. Then another 10 meters of sustained pulling, starting of with some cool bouldery moves past the roof into slopey ledges and a few crimps just before the anchor. Mentally challanging since you will probably fall somewhere after 25 - 35 meters of climbing.

Often repeated. Very soft.

Probably soft but I was totally wasted when climbing it. Powerendurance.

One of the more bouldery routes at the Abissi sector.

Simulclimbed with Agnes. 9 pitches. Climbed the first few pitches on the neighbour route to the left since there were parties above.

Easier climbing for twenty meters into sustained climbing for ten meters. Dynamic moves past the roof with a low-percentage dyno. Easier than Gameboy plus.

Extremely sustained climbing for 30 meters. Technical vertical climbing on sidepulls and gastons. Powerful over the roof. Surprised my self by being able to rest at steep ground on holds worse then jugs. Great route.

Tufas and steep climbing on decent holds. Pure endurance climbing. Loving it.

Hard reachy move.

Exiting tufaclimb, polished and hard for the grade.

Sustained endurance route, polished but good anyway.

Desperately polished first half on crimps. Upper half is beautiful but easier.

The extension adds 10 meter vertical climbing that has no very hard moves but very possibly to fall off due to the pump from the 7c+ part. Low-end 8a.

Superfun, polished vertical tufa start into steep pulling separated by knee bar rests.

Great route, very polished though.

Bouldery, left knee-pad beta made the crux easier.

One move away from the onsight, surprisingly hard crux past the steep part. Technical climbing on tufas first 15 m, really fun.

Sustained first half on good holds but large moves. Retarded miss of the onsight at the very start. Upper half is beautiful but not very hard I think.

Good climbing, felt more like low-end 7a.

Intense! Powerful start into sustained pulling into a undercling rest and some more technical moves before the anchor. Prior 8a downgraded to 7c/7c+, definitely felt like 7c+ to me altough it is very much my style.

Hard for me. 8a/+. 15 m intro 6b+ then the shit gets real when you enter the overhang. Ten metres of climbing with no proper rest leads into a 7A boulder with heelhooks and small holds.

Great route, sustained climbing on mainly incut holds. Pure endurance climbing except for a bouldery start. 7c+/8a.

Hard, 7b/+. Was agonizingly close on the onsight, missed crucial jug just before the anchor and went flying. Small bouldery sections.

Very fun.

Very cool and unique. Climbs well as well except for the awkard chimney-style moves in the very end. Lots of chalk in the crux makes it hard to onsight.

Some harder moves on the upper part.

First half is sustained, upper half is easier but technical.

Very good route. Bouldery start to tufajugs for the first 2/3 of the route, then some more sustained pulling on holds worse than jugs.

Very good and sustained.

Hard and reachy slabsection. Going straight up before the anchor was also superhard and no chalk made me afterwards realize the standard way was an right escape.

Horizontal roof, almost only good holds, a bit awkward in the end when you stemclimb up the cave to clip the chains far behind your back. Long distances between the bolts will give those who want to work on the route a hard time but may benefit those who wants an onsight.

Agree with u Daniel Woods. Horizontal roof, long moves and no proper rest anywhere.

Bouldery and overhung.

First route in Rodellar. Good climbing.

Svettigaste klättringen sedan Ton Sai 2015 i solen på årets kanske varmaste dag. Riktigt trevlig klättring likväl.

Jämn och fin.

Vilodag med långburk. Hårda moves över taket. Gick precis till vänster om bultlinjen och sekvensen involverade två icke uppenbara dödskrimpar och ett drop-knee-knälås. Inte så fin men roligt repetera något som sällan verkar klättras :)

Slightly overhung climbing on decent holds with some more tricky sequences high up. Recommended. Had some beta from Agnes who worked the route. A small consolation after falling three times one meter from the anchor on Rendez with Platon 8b :(

Hard boulder in the beginning on polished holds up to way easier ground. Felt at least as hard as other 7c's. Like a 7A boulder into 7a route maybe.

Beautiful line on the wall.

Only route I got to try in Secret Garden this day since everything was damp :(

Powerendurance. Very steep! 7c+ in guidebook from 2016.

Good climbing but as others have suggested, really really hard for the grade. Vertical beautiful moves into pumpy roofclimbing.

Went for the onsight, fell on the crux, worked the crux to find good beta and climbed to the top. Lucky send on the 2nd lead attempt where I was very close to fall on the traverse after the crux. 7b route into 7A+ boulder to 7a+ route maybe? Supercool line through the steepest part of the roof. 8a in guidebook from 2016.

Good climbing but the bolts looked a bit suspicious :/

A boulderers dream. 6B+/6C boulder in an otherwise 12 m short jugfest.

Wow. Hadn't even decided it would be an flash attempt when I began climbing. Watched a german guy send it and he shouted some good beta while climbing which definitely helped. 8a in guidebook from 2016.

One of those routes you will never forget. Felt like climbing forever with no clue when to reach the anchor. No move is very hard and there are plenty of rests but to take on the challange of climbing through a 40 meter roof may feel overwhelming.

Sustained on tufajugs all the way in steep terrain.